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Post  RknRusty Wed Feb 20, 2013 3:24 pm

Has anyone used these on fuel models, what's your opinion? I used it in small areas on my Refried Bean, but if I recall correctly I covered them with clear Lustrecote. I'm interested to know how they do unprotected, as I have a few of the right colors for my project. If brushed on, they seem to lay really flat and smooth without brush marks. It sure would be easier than rattle cans for details.

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Post  microflitedude Wed Feb 20, 2013 3:31 pm

Not fuel proof.

Try colored Lustrekote.
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Post  Cribbs74 Wed Feb 20, 2013 4:08 pm

I use it all the time. Great selection of colors and like you said it can be brushed on.

I let it dry a few days and top coat with Lustrecote. I did my Li'l Jumpin bean in it.

It is not fuel proof, it must be top coated. Also you have to wait a few days after application before you top coat or the enamel will lift.
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Post  RknRusty Wed Feb 20, 2013 4:25 pm

Rustoleum takes a few days too. Apparently "Enamel" is a ubiquitous term for anything that's not Latex, acrylic, or oil. I can't figure out what the heck it really means. I'll have to ask my boy, the chemist, next time I see him.

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Post  bottomgun Mon Mar 04, 2013 7:41 pm

I used to use clear K&B Superpoxy over Testors enamel paint and it made it absolutely fuel proof. A newer product called Klass Kote is virtually the same product with compatability with older left over Hobbypoxy and Superpoxy paints and hardners which are no longer available, but some modelers(including me) still have in store. It's usually airbrushed on, but I've mixed small amounts and have brushed it on small areas with good results. More expensive than Lustercote but even a half-pint amount of color or clear and part B hardener will do a lot of small projects.
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Post  SuperDave Thu Mar 07, 2013 10:29 am

For sure allow plenty of time for Lustrecoat to set up AND spray it on is several very light coats OR you'll have a mess which isn't easily removed.

Don't ask how I know this! DAMMIT!

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