After 20 years, I finally got a GTP Nissan!

Before you throw away the body, you can try to use something like this:
http://www.tamico.de/Paint-Killer-Lexan-Lackentferner-100ml

The Decal are still available.

That maples egr throttle has to be the strangest throttle I ever saw on a model engine.

I'm very curious as to how well it works. How is the response from idle, how smooth is it, how low will it idle. Also, would it be a better throttle than a TD .049 with the TD-RC throttle.

Wouldn't recycling exhaust into the intake, introduce the acid exhaust oxides, and promote rust in the crankcase?

Steve,

I asked me the same questions. My Stocker has also this maple EGR, I hope it will work very fine (The description says it works better than the former throttle) but I have to test it.

I can tell you only from my experience with the Kyosho Cox throttled car: It has also a exhaust throttle and it works very well.

From my point of view a throttled reed valve engine behaves more direct than a rotary valve engine. My Kyosho Cox throttles without any lag of time, like an e motor.

Idling becomes more easier with higher percentage of nitro (around 20% is fine).

Thanks for the reply Coxaddicted!

I guess we can be fixing up our GTP/Stocker cars together. I wonder who else on this forum has these cars. Seems nobody runs them, I never see people talking about running them.

I think the first parts I'm ordering, are spare clutch, spare break band, and a flat topped radio box. Maybe spare engine output shaft.

I have had a GTP Nissan since they were first introduced back in 89. I have the first version with the throttle ring. I also have 2 other ones I have since acquired and have parts for 1/2 of another one.

Weak points:

The front steering arms are brittle. Be careful when making steering adjustments.

The ratchet pull starter will slip and you will have to apply fresh fuel to it to remove the oil that is causing it to slip. Very frustrating when trying to restart after a run.

The plastic zip starter ratchet is very weak. Only put enough force to engage the teeth. Too much and it will break. Went through a couple when parts were readily available. Very hard to find part. Kyosho yellow zip starters will work also if you can find them.

The front bumper is weak and will break if you hit anything with it.

Single fin glow heads are rare to find now. They pop up on ebay every now and then. Gascarman on ebay has some. If you see one buy it.

The Cox/Sanwa pistol grip radio has a poor battery contact system. Don't be surprised from run away cars when the radio suddenly goes dead! Put it on the shelf and get a modern 2.4 GHz system. Even a HK 2 channel system would be better.

Been a while since I ran mine. I have upgraded it since with a Maples throttle. Haven't run it since the upgrade.

Thanks for the great info.

At least one problem I'm hoping will be a non-issue is the 1 fin glow head. I want to use the norvel helicopter head. It gives much better cooling surface area, and uses either button plugs or normal glow plugs. I already ordered one, but coming from russia, it might take a bit to arrive.

If you ordered it from NVengines.com it's probably coming from California.

Yes the glow heads are hard to find. I bought several not used ones on Ebay last year (I am using them also in my Kyosho's)

As Jason said: Use a 2.4ghz radio. I have the original Cox/Sanwa transmitter, it works fine in the bench test, but nothing is more exhausting than sprinting after a non controlled cox powered car
I had the problem last year with my Kyosho using an old mhz transmitter .

It is good to hear that the yellow kyosho zip starters would work too. Sometimes they are available on Ebay.
They were used in the early 80ies models like:
assault (looks like the electric scorpion)
Datsun step side
and some other models

I have all parts together to bring the stocker back on the track now. Sadly I have not enough time due to other projects.
So it will be a long term project. But I hope I can run it this summer.

Check also the backplate, make sure it is not cracked or broken. The black(delrin) backplates used in this cars are sometimes briddle, even in nib cars. I had this problem last time with my nib kyosho beetle when I fired it up first time. In the past years running these cars the frequently defects were caused by a broken backplate.

I also can't wait to hear and see one of these nice cars. I think they could be very fast.

ive oftern thought of getting one myself but alass the cost of piostage this way is scary...iffa only i could find one localy

Watch your drive wheel spur gear. There isn't any way to set the gear mesh between pinion and spur. It is a preset setting from the factory. when it is brand new the mesh is of course good,,once it gets some time on it, slop starts to develop between pinion and spur and if the engine moves at all during this time,,it will strip the spur gear. Keep those teeth clean as much as possible,,no sandy running surface. Boca bearings has a replacement bearing for the rear axle bushing setup,,get those as it helps to keep the spur gear mesh correct for a longer period of time plus it frees up the car immensely.

Back in the day,I raced one of these in 1/12 fuel onroad for about a season.

Brake straps go fast, especially if they slide off the brake drum and start grinding on the spur gear teeth,get some spares

The plastic/nylons were pretty brittle back then,,now with age,,the brittleness increases exponentially. Drive carefully. Slow speed steering servo, or a radio that you can adjust said speed.

The Maples setups are a bit tricky to tune,,stay with it with patience and you'll get it. A couple guys who I raced with had the Maples, they dumped those in favor of the easier to tune throttle ring setups.

Tune it on the surface you will run on,,DON'T tune it off surface in your hand. Get it to idle and rev up,,then set it down and run and tune. I exploded a engine trying to tune it off surface. It's a aircraft engine set to run in a car, treat it as such

Open up the engine cooling hole on the body by about 1/8-1/4",,same pattern, just a bit bigger. The engine gets pretty hot when it leans out at the bottom of the fuel tank. I would suggest to run it a bit rich. a nice heavy stream of smoke as it goes by. You can bump your oil content by a couple points, that wont hurt a thing and will only help the life.

Excellent info, I appreciate the advice.

I'm still waiting for the car to arrive, I think bad weather has slowed it down. Tracking hasn't been updated in 3 days.

I'm guessing the weak spot in the steering parts is the wheel hub? The part where the steering rods connect seems a little thin.

Would be cool if a machinist out there could make a set of aluminum steering hubs for it.

One thing I was considering for a fun upgrade, was putting a TD engine in it with a TD RC throttle. Maybe a tatone metal td motor mount would work for that. I know it might not be possible, depends if the gears line up I guess.

As for the original reed engine. I have read everything I can find about this car, including all the posts that have shown up on this forum. Seems the wire reed clip backplate is a bit iffy. Do you guys think the plastic retainer style one like Bernie and Matt have would do better and be more reliable?

Get an aluminum spook postage stamp backplate and make a custom mount for it. This one wont melt. I have melted the backplates before on hot summer days with 35% nitro. I have also melted the white nylon engine mount where the crtankcase of the engine goes through.

Adding a TD would be asking alot from the drive train gears. Just asking for problems adding more power.

CNC machined aluminum steering arms would be the ticket to fix that weak point.

Jason_WI wrote:Get an aluminum spook postage stamp backplate and make a custom mount for it. This one wont melt. I have melted the backplates before on hot summer days with 35% nitro. I have also melted the white nylon engine mount where the crtankcase of the engine goes through.

Adding a TD would be asking alot from the drive train gears. Just asking for problems adding more power.

CNC machined aluminum steering arms would be the ticket to fix that weak point.

I know the postage stamp backplates you mean, but I have never seen one made of metal. I don't have access to a machine shop, wish I did.

I was thinking of the TD for its really good throttling with the TD RC carb. I didn't want it to be super powered, so was thinking to use a slit exhaust no SPI cylinder. Speaking of that, on the reed engine, will using a slit exhaust cylinder help keep the engine from over revving? Or is the difference from open to slit not so much on the top end.

I won't mount a tee dee engine on this car.

If I believe the description and if it really reaches 30mph, I think it would be fast enough for this little car.

I could imagine that the tee dee will destroy the clutch and differential gear very soon. You have to consider, that the power will be doubled.

Furthermore I think the very weak brake strap won't brake it down enough. And of course the chassis suspension is very limited.
Nothing would be more annoying than destroying this very rare vintage car on the first run.

Compared to my kyosho 0.49, everything is very thin at this car and it weights only the half!
On the Kyosho everything is more solid. From my driving experience with the Kyosho I would say the reed valve engines are strong enough to have some fun.

I would suggest you get this car running with the original engine first. I promise you, it will be great fun (even if I have only experience with the kyoshso yet).

But the idea to power a rc car with a tee dee is very good but I think you have to choose a more soild chassis/drivetrain.

Yeah, I kinda decided to scrap the TD idea for the nissan.

But I will probably build up a nice replacement engine from Bernie, in case the original ever breaks.
I'm thinking of a killer bee crankshaft, gold crankcase, red or grey backplate, with non-spi slit cylinder with dual transfers and a boost port. Give the car a little bling. Or, maybe a blue crankcase to match the blue nissan body?

Also was looking at carbon fiber sheet to make a replacement pan, but not sure on the cost to have them cut. Just having fun thinking of ways to modernize the car.

Feel free to do that. I think an anodized crankcase would be looking cool.
There was a great 1/12 scene in USA until the mid eighties I think. Maybe you can use another body for this car.

I have a Porsche 962c body here (don't know from which company, maybe academy?) which should be fit with some modifications.

At this point I like to say that it is really cool for me to hear that here are other members who are interested in cox powered cars

I made some pictures:
On the left you see the stocker, right is a porsche 962c:


The wheelbase is near than correct:


You have to think different on this picture It is just for showing that the wheelbase is nearly correct (gauge also)


Regarding your whish for modifications, I would recommend that you can allways rebuild the OEM Version because it is a collectors car, even if it is already used.

But from my point of view they belonging to the track not on the shelf