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Post  Cribbs74 Mon Nov 25, 2013 9:48 pm

I am at the point where I really need to consider using a wing jig for my builds. I can eyeball my way through 1/2A, but not so much on the bigger stuff.

I thought I saw a post on how to build a jig a while back?

Ron
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Post  RknRusty Mon Nov 25, 2013 10:05 pm


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Post  Cribbs74 Mon Nov 25, 2013 10:28 pm

Thanks Rusty,

I knew I saw that sometime (I even commented on Roddies post) Rolling Eyes 

Looks simple enough to do!

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Post  roddie Mon Nov 25, 2013 10:48 pm

Ron, You may do well to find some carbon fiber arrow-shafts like Rusty asked about, if you're going to make this wing-jig. I keep my jig with the "alum. rods" hanging "high from harm"... and I haven't actually used it yet. Carbon fiber would be much better. Once an aluminum rod bends (even slightly)... it's junk for building a straight wing. I may make a smaller jig w/shorter 1/8" dia. Carbon rods for wing panels 18" and under.

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Post  RknRusty Tue Nov 26, 2013 12:16 am

What about the base plank, you certainly don't want that to warp or twist. Is a urethane sealed piece of 1/2" marine plywood the right thing to use, or would hardwood be better? Lexan might be a good material too.

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Post  pkrankow Tue Nov 26, 2013 6:02 am

I used some bent pieces of aluminum as spacers. Gravity does a fine job of holding things. The important part is the supports are parallel and the table is flat.

Of course there are different ways to hold the wing besides through the holes in the spars.

CF arrow shafts have a wonderful affinity for glue, so I can't recommend them since a metal shaft would be better. CF shafts do work a treat...except on the couple ribs that got glued to the shafts. Metal would have allowed the glue to part much more easily.

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Post  RknRusty Tue Nov 26, 2013 6:13 am

pkrankow wrote:... Metal would have allowed the glue to part much more easily.

Phil
Especially with a little heat applied to a stubborn bond. Good point about the metal shafts.

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Post  roddie Tue Nov 26, 2013 1:18 pm

My end-blocks are 1.5" square oak x12"L. and are drilled and counter-bored 8" o/c for mounting to a...

***base... of 3/4" particle board... about 12" x 40" would be a good size for 36" long rods... and it helps to square the fixture (12"...) at the same time. The end-blocks each have a "hanger-bolt" installed on center (6") for mounting the rod-clamp blocks, and have STOP-block on one end. The stop-block must be thinner than the rod diameter being used; or else the rod (which butts against it) won't be clamped down... very important!

My rod-clamp blocks are 1.5" x 1/2" x 10" oak. and are drilled o/c (5") to accept the hanger-bolt (machine thread) and are secured with a fender washer/wing-nut. It's an effective means of clamping the rods down. (when the clamp-blocks start to "bow" when tightening... the rods aren't going to move.)

Graph-paper taped to the base is a great idea. Lay-out your center-line, rib-stations etc. "beforehand", and you will have ultimate references for alignment, using a sm. square or a 90 deg. triangle.

As for "spilling glue on the rods"... I guess it's gonna' happen... but there are ways to deal with this; regardless of the rod type you use. You can (and should) spray alum. rods beforehand, with dry silicone-lube. This will help keep glue from bonding to the rods... plus it will make them easier to remove when finished.

You can also cut and slit "drinking-straws" in lengths between rib-stations... to act as sleeves to protect the rods from glue spills. Press them onto the rod (via the slit) in between ribs. Simply pull them off after... or if they're a larger dia, than the rod... they'll just fall off when you pull the rods out.

ROTATE the rods before and during removal... This will break a glue-bond to the rod if there is one... and it will also reduce "binding" on removal. When removing a rod, SLOWLY ROTATE and OBSERVE all ribs and STOP if you notice any ribs "bowing" excessively, and correct the problem... (it may just be a bind) or it may be a glue-blob you missed. Be patient and take the time to carefully remove the rods... you don't want to crack a rib... or even worse; stress all the glue-joints.

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notice below; the rod "alignment-stop" must be thinner than the rod dia. and both stops must be square to each other, at the face; where the rod butts against it. Check for square when mounting the end-blocks to the base.

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Post  Cribbs74 Tue Nov 26, 2013 10:18 pm

Thanks guys,

You have given me a good idea about how to do it on the cheap. The only thing I would change is the thickness of the top clamp. That way I can flip the wing and work the underside.

I'll have to countersink the fastners to allow it to sit flush on both sides.

Straight wings in the first shot!!! What a concept.

I'll prob give aluminum rods a go as they will be cheaper. I see no possibility of glue issues unless I use thin CA.

Ron
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