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Cox Engine of The Month
Crankcase dis-assembly and assembly
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Crankcase dis-assembly and assembly
Hi everybody,
I have dis-assembled two reedy crankcases today and wanted to say that all went per the instructions sheet (that came with the dis-assembly tool) on the first one but that I had to heat the crankcase with a heat gun for the crank to come out on the second one.
And I have a question : what kind of lubricant should I use on the cranks during reassembly? Is the Coxlube after run oil OK? Thanks.
I have dis-assembled two reedy crankcases today and wanted to say that all went per the instructions sheet (that came with the dis-assembly tool) on the first one but that I had to heat the crankcase with a heat gun for the crank to come out on the second one.
And I have a question : what kind of lubricant should I use on the cranks during reassembly? Is the Coxlube after run oil OK? Thanks.
Paul_BB- Bronze Member
- Posts : 59
Join date : 2015-03-16
Age : 60
Re: Crankcase dis-assembly and assembly
Paul i think the Cox after run oil would bee ok , what i use is 10w hydraulic oil that i have found does good and burns off quick . Good to hear U took the CC out alot of times people dont and miss that extra drag from varnish build up .
getback- Top Poster
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Posts : 10127
Join date : 2013-01-18
Age : 66
Location : julian , NC
Re: Crankcase dis-assembly and assembly
You can also use 3 in 1 oïl from the DIY. It was recommended by Cox and is still recommended by Ex Model Engines.
OVERLORD- Diamond Member
- Posts : 1789
Join date : 2013-03-19
Age : 57
Location : Normandy, France
Re: Crankcase dis-assembly and assembly
I don't lube during assembly. It can interfere with sealants. Instead I make sure to practically flood the engine with fuel so the oil gets carried to where it needs to go after everything is done, and typically the engine is mounted.
A dose of after-run, certain air-tool oils, or ATF after assembly will have similar effects. Be careful as some oils have flame retardants added (most motor oils) which will make it very difficult to start an engine that has not been fully flushed clean.
Phil
A dose of after-run, certain air-tool oils, or ATF after assembly will have similar effects. Be careful as some oils have flame retardants added (most motor oils) which will make it very difficult to start an engine that has not been fully flushed clean.
Phil
pkrankow- Top Poster
- Posts : 3025
Join date : 2012-10-02
Location : Ohio
Re: Crankcase dis-assembly and assembly
A proper after-run will be solvable in methanol fuel. And an engine lubricated with such an oil usually starts very easily, as the oil also helps with the piston to cylinder seal.
Using regular ATF oil is not really a good choice for an engine that you want to run. It might be good for storage, but I have never really understood why one would use an ATF oil for that.
The after-run oil I got from Bernie doesn't seem solvable in methanol (?), it might just be an ATF oil...?
Using regular ATF oil is not really a good choice for an engine that you want to run. It might be good for storage, but I have never really understood why one would use an ATF oil for that.
The after-run oil I got from Bernie doesn't seem solvable in methanol (?), it might just be an ATF oil...?
Surfer_kris- Diamond Member
- Posts : 1906
Join date : 2010-11-20
Location : Sweden
Re: Crankcase dis-assembly and assembly
getback wrote:Paul i think the Cox after run oil would bee ok , what i use is 10w hydraulic oil that i have found does good and burns off quick . Good to hear U took the CC out alot of times people dont and miss that extra drag from varnish build up .
Good point about the extra drag, I did not realize that. It is frustrating to clean up an engine thoroughly excepted for the inside of the crankcase. Then you go to bed and think "Oh my engine is nice and shiny but I know there is a lot of smut inside the crankcase". And while you sleep, you can hear in your dreams your engine telling you "Paul, Paul, I am clean and shiny but you forgot to clean my crankcase."
Thanks OVERLORD, I will use Coxlube but it's a good thing to know 3 in 1 oil was recommended by Cox.OVERLORD wrote:You can also use 3 in 1 oïl from the DIY. It was recommended by Cox and is still recommended by Ex Model Engines.
pkrankow wrote:I don't lube during assembly. It can interfere with sealants. Instead I make sure to practically flood the engine with fuel so the oil gets carried to where it needs to go after everything is done, and typically the engine is mounted.
A dose of after-run, certain air-tool oils, or ATF after assembly will have similar effects. Be careful as some oils have flame retardants added (most motor oils) which will make it very difficult to start an engine that has not been fully flushed clean.
Thanks for the info Phil.
Surfer_kris wrote:A proper after-run will be solvable in methanol fuel. And an engine lubricated with such an oil usually starts very easily, as the oil also helps with the piston to cylinder seal.
Using regular ATF oil is not really a good choice for an engine that you want to run. It might be good for storage, but I have never really understood why one would use an ATF oil for that.
The after-run oil I got from Bernie doesn't seem solvable in methanol (?), it might just be an ATF oil...?
Very interesting Surfer_kris. I usually disassemble my .049s (excepted for the crankcase) after each flying day and reassemble them with Coxlube. I have never had any problem at start up.
Paul_BB- Bronze Member
- Posts : 59
Join date : 2015-03-16
Age : 60
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