Log in
Search
Latest topics
» Artwork for Otto Kuhniby Mark Boesen Yesterday at 11:53 pm
» Roddie's water-cooling bottle for bench-running
by roddie Yesterday at 8:59 pm
» Baja Bug / Dune Buggy Recoil Starter
by vambrosini Yesterday at 8:57 pm
» Wanted: Pull Starter reapir kit for a Cox Dune Buggy.
by vambrosini Yesterday at 8:55 pm
» cox dune buggy/ baja bug
by vambrosini Yesterday at 8:49 pm
» Jim Walkers FireBee - This is going to be fun
by 944_Jim Yesterday at 7:46 pm
» Joe Wagners Sioux
by GallopingGhostler Yesterday at 7:37 pm
» Jim Walker Firebaby
by rsv1cox Yesterday at 10:29 am
» B-25 Mitchell
by rdw777 Yesterday at 9:49 am
» Cox water wizard
by Wiggy Yesterday at 6:32 am
» My Cox .049 Marine inboard engine
by 1/2A Nut Sun May 12, 2024 9:52 pm
» Roddie's water-cooled bench-run vid
by roddie Sun May 12, 2024 8:55 pm
Cox PT-19 Sure start tips
Page 1 of 1
Cox PT-19 Sure start tips
I wanted to post what I did to my Cox .049 Sure Start before flying it the PT-19.
First off I removed the engine from the firewall and backplate. Next I removed the prop, starter spring, glow-head with washer, and the piston/cylinder assembly. Then I cleaned and rinsed everything, even though it was new. Using some 600 grit wet-dry pare and 3-in-one oil, I lapped the back of the crankcase until it took on an even dull sheen all around the gasket sealing area and the burrs around the four screw holes disappeared. After that, the back of the case was wiped clean of the residue from lapping using a paper towel and a Q-tips, being careful to not let any of the grit into the case itself. A follow-up with rinse in model fuel was done to the case. The intake tube comes off by removing the needle valve, and the back of the intake tube is also lapped if it has any plastic burrs or flash; this operation insures a better seal of the intake tube to the opening of the carburetor. Re-assemble the piston and cylinder, install glow head and gasket, torque. A new crankcase gasket was fitted and the back plate was re-installed, carefully torque the screws in an X pattern, do this in 3 stages, to avoid warping. You can balance the prop at this time as well, and all mine took was a one inch strip of clear Scotch tape on the light blade. Mount the prop so it will dead stick horizontal. Once you put the needle valve back in , set it to 3 turns open.
Rotate the fuel tank so the pick-up in the bottom is towards the outside of the circle, it will increase the run time.
After the engine is back in the plane and ready to start, there is no need to prime it through the exhaust ports. Simply place you finger over the intake tube and flip the engine over one time by hand, don't use the spring starter or you will flood it. Next, connect the glow head clip and it should start right up with a flip or two on the spring starter.
This whole procedure insures your engine has proper crankcase sealing and is clean and free of any debris inside which will cause trouble. Be sure to use fuel which is 20% oil, and it should be castor oil. I use a blend of 80%castor, 20% synthetic, as it is readily available (Maxima 927, sold in motorcycle shops). 15 to 25% nitro works great.
First off I removed the engine from the firewall and backplate. Next I removed the prop, starter spring, glow-head with washer, and the piston/cylinder assembly. Then I cleaned and rinsed everything, even though it was new. Using some 600 grit wet-dry pare and 3-in-one oil, I lapped the back of the crankcase until it took on an even dull sheen all around the gasket sealing area and the burrs around the four screw holes disappeared. After that, the back of the case was wiped clean of the residue from lapping using a paper towel and a Q-tips, being careful to not let any of the grit into the case itself. A follow-up with rinse in model fuel was done to the case. The intake tube comes off by removing the needle valve, and the back of the intake tube is also lapped if it has any plastic burrs or flash; this operation insures a better seal of the intake tube to the opening of the carburetor. Re-assemble the piston and cylinder, install glow head and gasket, torque. A new crankcase gasket was fitted and the back plate was re-installed, carefully torque the screws in an X pattern, do this in 3 stages, to avoid warping. You can balance the prop at this time as well, and all mine took was a one inch strip of clear Scotch tape on the light blade. Mount the prop so it will dead stick horizontal. Once you put the needle valve back in , set it to 3 turns open.
Rotate the fuel tank so the pick-up in the bottom is towards the outside of the circle, it will increase the run time.
After the engine is back in the plane and ready to start, there is no need to prime it through the exhaust ports. Simply place you finger over the intake tube and flip the engine over one time by hand, don't use the spring starter or you will flood it. Next, connect the glow head clip and it should start right up with a flip or two on the spring starter.
This whole procedure insures your engine has proper crankcase sealing and is clean and free of any debris inside which will cause trouble. Be sure to use fuel which is 20% oil, and it should be castor oil. I use a blend of 80%castor, 20% synthetic, as it is readily available (Maxima 927, sold in motorcycle shops). 15 to 25% nitro works great.
jmendoza- Silver Member
- Posts : 70
Join date : 2017-07-18
Similar topics
» Does Old Fuel Work? Because my NEW .49 with spring start won't start.
» wanted Cox pull start cord or pull start repair kit
» Newbie Question - Tee Dee 049
» tips for starting a cox car engine
» Looking for tips
» wanted Cox pull start cord or pull start repair kit
» Newbie Question - Tee Dee 049
» tips for starting a cox car engine
» Looking for tips
Page 1 of 1
Permissions in this forum:
You cannot reply to topics in this forum