Ronnie's engines

rsv1cox wrote:I saw them.  I usually look for and buy "the worst of the worst" but those I passed on. Seems like there is not much to be saved there, but they would act as a curiosity. At least my latest has a savable engine.

Yup, that engine looks like worth gambling and saving on, possibly a genuine Silver Bee, Bob. I would have done the same.

getback wrote:b***e(549) $47.00 16 Nov 2018 at 6:01:54AM PST
l***u(467) $46.00 15 Nov 2018 at 10:59:22PM PST
b***e(549) $46.00 16 Nov 2018 at 6:01:08AM PST [....]
Starting Price $4.99 11 Nov 2018 at 12:27:13PM PST. Can someone tell me why people bid stuff up like this ? ( O yea i was bidding on both )

Oh, the difference is that you knew when to back off. There are other fish in the kettle that are much more worthwhile to go after.

I hope whoever bid on these realized they were TD .020’s and not .010’s

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cox-010-Engines-for-parts-Maybe-R-R/113366349445?hash=item1a65293685:g:OywAAOSwFYZb6I6m:rk:40

No Bob i wasn't biding on those , but i was waiting on this one and fell asleep / forgot ? i think that is a .010 in there , scroll down for original listing https://www.ebay.com/itm/7-VINTAGE-ENGINES-049-COX-HOLLAND-HORNET-II-OK-McCOY-DIESEL-PLUS-PARTS-/323540744204?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l10137.c10&nordt=true&rt=nc&orig_cvip=true

The smallest engine in the lot is this .25cc diesel (.015 ci), it was exported from Hungary in late 50s.
It was made by the Vella Brothers model engine builders. They made many different engines both glow and diesel.
This one is called a VT-11 and unfortunately is missing its needle valve. Its appears to be new, the anodizing is very nice.
Any other info would be welcome.
http://www.adriansmodelaeroengines.com/catalog/main.php?cat_id=66

Press fit backplate, I wonder how you go about replacing parts if needed? I can’t imagine you would press the crank into the backplate to remove it.

Cribbs74 wrote:Press fit backplate, I wonder how you go about replacing parts if needed? I can’t imagine you would press the crank into the backplate to remove it.

Other photos I have seen of this engine have the plier marks on the cylinder and backplate.

This Fox has a strange throttle linkage, its never run and no tool marks on it but frozen solid.
I can't find much info on it but think the throttle was changed quickly.

Interesting engine, looks like the Fox rocket series case with the four bolt backplate and beefy venturi. That throttle is definitely different than other Fox’s that I have seen. Looks to be an early version. What I find really strange is the exhaust port piece and the extra casting around it. I wonder if it’s a prototype of some sort.

It’s not uncommon for new Fox engines to lock up just sitting as they are run at the factory when new, probably with 29% castor. I wonder if they used after run? Oh well, something for you to fiddle with.

Ron

crankbndr wrote:
This one is called a VT-11 and unfortunately is missing its needle valve. Its appears to be new, the anodizing is very nice.
Any other info would be welcome.

The VT-08 engines (1cc diesels) were quite common around here in the past and I have two of them, but I have never seen the VT-11 in the "flesh".

I have a swedish manual for the VT-08 and it provides a running in procedure, written in rather old and strange swedish from the 1950-ties:
"Run the engine for a maximum of 50-60 seconds continuously, then leave to cool down to room temperature. The running in period is about 20-30 minutes."

So that is more than 20 starts before it is ready to fly... (!)

There is also a strange, old-school, fuel blend recommendation:
40% ether
20% castor oil
20% Kerosene
20% Petroleum

I have run mine on a more modern fuel mix, 35% ether, 25% all castor and 1.5% DII, the rest kerosene. Works fine as the DII helps to reduce the compression setting.

Surfer_kris wrote:

crankbndr wrote:
This one is called a VT-11 and unfortunately is missing its needle valve. Its appears to be new, the anodizing is very nice.
Any other info would be welcome.

The VT-08 engines (1cc diesels) were quite common around here in the past and I have two of them, but I have never seen the VT-11 in the "flesh".

I have a swedish manual for the VT-08 and it provides a running in procedure, written in rather old and strange swedish from the 1950-ties:
"Run the engine for a maximum of 50-60 seconds continuously, then leave to cool down to room temperature. The running in period is about 20-30 minutes."

So that is more than 20 starts before it is ready to fly... (!)

There is also a strange, old-school, fuel blend recommendation:
40% ether
20% castor oil
20% Kerosene
20% Petroleum

I have run mine on a more modern fuel mix, 35% ether, 25% all castor and 1.5% DII, the rest kerosene. Works fine as the DII helps to reduce the compression setting.

Thank you, I read the needle is 1mm wire. Any idea of thread?

Got another Foxie .35 Rocket. I don't think its been used either but frozen
There is a funny large hole in back of case?

rsv1cox wrote:My envy button is pushed full-on CB.  

Bob

Most of my collection is Cox stuff, I don't now much about the Fox and OS engines and the others.
Interesting to look em up and find out about them.

crankbndr wrote:Got another Foxie .35 Rocket. I don't think its been used either but frozen
There is a funny large hole in back of case?

Isn't this hole  to help  remove the gudgeon (wrist) pin from the piston after the cylinder lining has been pulled out?

I answer my own question: yes..see engine description in Sceptreflight:
http://www.sceptreflight.com/Model%20Engine%20Tests/Fox%20Rocket%2035.html

The hole is for removing the wrist pin.  However, it may have been necessary on other style engines using the same case. The case was not specific to this engine aside from it's logo.  The conrods on the combat specials  were fairly beefy compared to the stunt .35 therefore the case may not have allowed the rod to be backed off the crankpin until you removed the wrist pin from the piston. Nonetheless, it's very difficult to remove a wrist pin through the hole due to varnishing on the wrist pin that takes place where the rod travels under the piston. It may move but doesn't want to slide through the piston holes.

             The red head Fox Rocket was made to compete with the Red Head Mccoy's. I could be incorrect but I believe these were produced in 59-61era.  The engine itself offers much more power when the restrictor is removed from the venturi. The Rocket was somewhat of a compilation of parts which received it's roots from the 57-58 Combat Specials. My buddy Larry  flies a Rocket red head in which I noted  it shakes much more than my Combat Specials which leads me to believe the crankshaft may be slightly different. These were the years that Fox used brass end pads on the wrist pin ends which really tore up the cylinder if not careful.

           Neat engine and GwillieFox could certainly lend a lot of info on this engine. He could lend a chronological order to these. The 57 versions were the first using this case and  I believe only had Fox on the bypass with the .35 milled off of the raised portion. The 58 version was the blackhead which it's head was black. I believe your redhead has Fox & Rocket with the rocket insignia on the bypass. The 2nd series Combat Special was offered in 61 also known as the "61 special" used a 4 bolt backplate as your rocket with the exception of a 4 bolt on front end which used needle bearings to support the shaft. The "61" special also shared the rocket insignia on the bypass.

That fishing pole/ slide-a-ma-jig throttle R/C engine is also related to the Rocket-Combat Special engines. The spacer between the head and top end might make it a stroked R/C-Carrier .40

crankbndr wrote:This Fox has a strange throttle linkage, its never run and no tool marks on it but frozen solid.
I can't find much info on it but think the throttle was changed quickly.

That is one that I've never seen before. I'd understand its simplicity, stamped sheet metal parts cost less than machined. You definitely have a collector item there. It must have been short lived, perhaps lacklustre sales?

Back then, RC throttle was often more than not, escapement driven for low cost or quick blip servo driven. It was either full on or off, full throttle or idle / lowered RPM's. A simple sliding baffle plate probably prevented copyright issues and created an item to be copyrighted. The frivolous Jim Walker lawsuit with Cox over the prior art bellcrank issue didn't help. The rotating spray bar resembles the old Cox Medallion throttle control.

May be a good heating in boiling water / antifreeze may help to free up the mechanism, perhaps locked up with congealed Castor? Engine appears to be smaller than a .35, may be .15 or .19?

Thank you for all the great info on the engines guys!! The instructions for the Fox RC throttle say it also turns the spraybar similar to the Cox Medallion throttle setup?
I have the box and paperwork says Fox 40 RC.

crankbndr wrote:Thank you for all the great info on the engines guys!! The instructions for the Fox RC throttle say it also turns the spraybar similar to the Cox Medallion throttle setup? I have the box and paperwork says Fox 40 RC.

Wow, interesting, crankbndr, I wouldn't have guessed at it being larger. I only own Fox .15X's and .25RC (the plain bearing cross scavenged one), thought it was the smaller as those were more commonly used for RC. The .15's and smaller with single exhaust port and exhaust restriction baffle on mild nitro fuel put out roughly about the same amount of noise as a Cox .049 reedy at full throttle, but an unmuffled .40 would definitely be loud. Today, about the only place one could fly such would be on someone's rural farm.

Japan with its denser population (land the size of California with half the US population living on it) started providing mufflers as an option for their engines back in the early 1960's. Sound doesn't project as far for a control line flown close to the ground, but RC at a couple hundred feet up could be heard much further away. Couldn't say specifically because I started 1st grade in 1961, but I wonder if because of that mufflers became more preferred earlier on for larger engines.

Next up a K&B Allyn .35, very nice NIB engine. The engine has a conical drive plate, don't see how that could have worked well. Must have to really honk down on the prop.

The final version of Dick McCoys .60 engine, he was really into tether car racing and his spark version of this engine dominated the hobby in the 40s till Dooling came along.
This engine was made for air models. I have read that tuners could get 1.75 hp out of it.