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Post  RknRusty Sat Jan 28, 2012 7:00 pm

I want to build a couple of Killer Bees for my two new Com-Bat kit planes, and I want them to be built as identical and high performance as I can. I know a free spinning crank is one of the important parts of building a speedster. Can someone tell me how to polish the crank and bearings? I have plenty of good crankcases, I'd like to use what I have to save some money if I can get away with it.

As far as the pistons and cylinders go, I'm at the mercy of what comes in the mail. I'm not going to buy 10 sets and mix and match like the mouse racers do. I suppose I could buy 2 sets and lap the tightest set to get the same feel as the loosest set. Or is loose the wrong common denominator?
Thanks,
Rusty

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Post  Cribbs74 Mon Jan 30, 2012 3:29 pm

Rusty,

I am surprised nobody jumped on this. Best I can do is direct you to the .049 collectors group. If you go into the files section there is a word document that tells all about hopping up reedies. Good luck and post back with the mods and tach numbers!
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Post  Cribbs74 Mon Jan 30, 2012 3:33 pm

Also, you could get with Micro and check out his Killer bee I think he did all the mods apart from drilling the venturi. I could be wrong about that though.
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Post  nitroairplane Mon Jan 30, 2012 3:34 pm

Very good info in the bottom 2 documents there.
http://coxengines.ca/pages.php?pageid=19
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Post  fit90 Mon Jan 30, 2012 4:54 pm

I like to polish the crankshaft. I don't know if it actually helps anything but it makes me feel good. I start out putting some three in one or light machine oil on some 400 wet dry sand paper and put the crank shaft in and use a clamp to lightly clamp the shaft in the paper so there is even friction and surface contact on the entire crank shaft and begin spinning the crank shaft. ONLY spin in one direction. Do this for about four minutes then switch to 800 grit then 1000 grit. You are only trying to remove any burs or surface imperfections. Make sure to thoroughly clean the crank shaft before reinstalling it. Put a drive plate and prop on it and it should spin freely with a dry fit.

Good luck and let us know if you think it actually helps or just sounds cool when you talk about polishing your crank (Sorry, I had to say it.)

Bob
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Post  microflitedude Mon Jan 30, 2012 5:01 pm

cribbs74 wrote:Also, you could get with Micro and check out his Killer bee I think he did all the mods apart from drilling the venturi. I could be wrong about that though.

Mr. Rusty helped me run it an break it in.

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No real "modification".

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Post  RknRusty Mon Jan 30, 2012 8:34 pm

fit90 wrote:I like to polish the crankshaft. I don't know if it actually helps anything but it makes me feel good. I start out putting some three in one or light machine oil on some 400 wet dry sand paper and put the crank shaft in and use a clamp to lightly clamp the shaft in the paper so there is even friction and surface contact on the entire crank shaft and begin spinning the crank shaft. ONLY spin in one direction. Do this for about four minutes then switch to 800 grit then 1000 grit. You are only trying to remove any burs or surface imperfections. Make sure to thoroughly clean the crank shaft before reinstalling it. Put a drive plate and prop on it and it should spin freely with a dry fit.

Good luck and let us know if you think it actually helps or just sounds cool when you talk about polishing your crank (Sorry, I had to say it.)

Bob
Thanks Bob, and everyone else for the replies.
I've read all the papers and know all the parts. The polishing is one detail I was wondering about. I know the KB cranks are softer steel than standard Bee cranks(contrary to my best guess), so I'll be careful not to over-do it. This will be my Spring project, so right now I'm just formulating a plan and making a list.

I'll address piston fit when I get there.

Muchas gracias,
Rusty

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