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Post  Scratch049 Sat Apr 24, 2021 2:22 pm

Recently got a Hanger 9 power panel.
My idea is to screw it to the side of a tool box with a 12 volt battery inside to run it.
My intent is to have an adjustable source of power for my glow plug.
Power for an electric starter would be available if needed.
Seems like most of the guys at the field are using small hand held glow warmers at the field these days.
Wondering if there is anyone out there still using a power panel. Old Bugger
Scratch...
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Post  944_Jim Sat Apr 24, 2021 2:38 pm

I am. Somewhere in here I posted my box.

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Post  Kim Sat Apr 24, 2021 2:45 pm

Yeah,
I still like and use them.  Actually have three different field boxes with power panels and duplicate tools for each.  Seems like overkill, but I have a talent for leaving critical stuff behind when I don't pack out the whole deal.

I like having one central 12v battery in each for my starters and being able to extend my glow plug wires.


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Post  Scratch049 Sat Apr 24, 2021 4:28 pm

Wow, really nice boxes.
I'm ashamed to say that I've been looking at screwing mine to the side of a Harbor Freight plastic tool box. Embarassed
Perhaps a short term solution.
Jim-
That V shape, is that for a model to sit in?
What kind of battery are you guys using?
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Post  Kim Sat Apr 24, 2021 4:58 pm

Scratch049 wrote:Wow, really nice boxes.
I'm ashamed to say that I've been looking at screwing mine to the side of a Harbor Freight plastic tool box. Embarassed
Perhaps a short term solution.
Jim-
That V shape, is that for a model to sit in?
What kind of battery are you guys using?

Thank You...but whatever gets the job done. Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy

The top box was an orphan that I got for free from the Lafayette Escadrille's (St. Louis) Spring Fly-In.  I think the notches are for an airplane cradle, but that'll be something I'll have to make.

The smaller one is for 1/2A's and such and is easier to pack around the field.

I've got another panel in a hernia-ripping monster that gets used when I really go OCD with having to have stuff around.

I power mine with the sealed 12v batteries from Walmart's hunting dept., and sprung for a "Genius" brand charger, with leads that I plug into the the starter receptacles.
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Post  rsv1cox Sat Apr 24, 2021 5:59 pm

Had mine in use a couple of weeks ago to light up the Norvel.

Red one belongs to my Son.  Store bought, made mine from scrap lumber many years ago.  Love the power panels, everything right there that you would ever want.  Got an igniter too but it's seldom used.  I like the variable option to lite the glow plug.  Other power take-offs too.  Cradles hold larger R/C models.


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Just a hint, if you use that Hangar 9 panel, ensure your glow plugs leads are not plugged into the 12V option.  I along with a couple of others here have zapped a glow plug or two before by forgetting about that.  I use a motorcycle battery, but gel cells work fine too. I also installed an on/off switch outside the panel interrupting the battery power.
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Post  Kim Sat Apr 24, 2021 6:19 pm

rsv1cox wrote:

Just a hint, if you use that Hangar 9 panel, ensure your glow plugs leads are not plugged into the 12V option.  I along with a couple of others here have zapped a glow plug or two before by forgetting about that.  

SEVERE TRUTH there!!!!!!!!!!!
 Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked
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Post  Ken Cook Sat Apr 24, 2021 7:55 pm

Also provide a inline fuse between the battery /panel. I told my club member this time and time again that you can get a pigtail for auto fuses for the inline link for $5 at the parts store. So I see him again and no inline fuse so I mention it again. Well he never installed it and it burned his Corvette to a ash pile over $5 not to mention he suffered severe burns on his hands. As he was driving, the box fell over and shorted against something inside and melted the wires setting the insulation on fire and then everything else. He tried to pull the box out of the car but it was too late as the interior ignited. Good times.
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Post  dckrsn Sat Apr 24, 2021 9:33 pm

Ken Cook wrote:               Also provide a inline fuse between the battery /panel.  I told my club member this time and time again that you can get a pigtail for auto fuses for the inline link for $5 at the parts store. So I see him again and no inline fuse so I mention it again. Well he never installed it and it burned his Corvette to a ash pile over $5 not to mention he suffered severe burns on his hands. As he was driving, the box fell over and shorted against something inside and melted the wires setting the insulation on fire and then everything else. He tried to pull the box out of the car but it was too late as the interior ignited. Good times.
Dat dere is one of yer expensive type edjacations.
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Post  944_Jim Sat Apr 24, 2021 9:42 pm

The V shape is for holding a model. If I did that, I'd put some pipe insulation over the wood. As it is, it worked great for holding my BHM Mosquito while I fueled both tanks. I have thought of cutting them off...but that is just more work.

The middle section holds a 12 volt 6AH security light battery with 1/4" spade lugs. I wish I had the forethought to install female banana plug sockets between the battery and panel. I could go through the panel's starter sockets, but it would have to be on to charge the battery through it. It also keeps a foam block with screw drivers stabbed in, a flask of fuel, and a few spools of lines and my control handle.

The covered box holds special wrenches, props, and a box of glowplugs.

The panel side box has a screen between the cavity below the panel, and the rest of that box. My glowplug leads, a bag of rubber bands, and my fueling syringes stay there.

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Post  Scratch049 Sun Apr 25, 2021 3:42 pm

Really appreciate that you have responded to my post, gentlemen.
After re-reading Ken Cooks post I re-examined my power panel and found that Amazon did not send me the power panel that I ordered. They sent one that has two green connections for the glow plug leads. (guessing here) One above the other, next to the dial.  Rolling Eyes
Can anyone please confirm this?
I'm stuck with this panel because the return time passed last month. (sigh) Crying or Very sad
 Also provide a inline fuse between the battery /panel.
Your advice will be taken, thanks so much Ken.
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Post  Kim Sun Apr 25, 2021 11:04 pm

Scratch049 wrote:Really appreciate that you have responded to my post, gentlemen.
After re-reading Ken Cooks post I re-examined my power panel and found that Amazon did not send me the power panel that I ordered. They sent one that has two green connections for the glow plug leads. (guessing here) One above the other, next to the dial.  Rolling Eyes
Can anyone please confirm this?
I'm stuck with this panel because the return time passed last month. (sigh) Crying or Very sad
 Also provide a inline fuse between the battery /panel.
Your advice will be taken, thanks so much Ken.

Yeah, mine are like that also...hasn't caused me much concern, I just plug the red lead into the top hole.

Thanks to Ken for these tips. Should have known to do these in the first place, but it's in the works now!
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Post  Ken Cook Mon Apr 26, 2021 4:16 am

I didn't have a complete devastating experience but it was bad nonetheless. I had a battery tender to charge my motorcycles when in the winter months. the pigtail that has the connector for it connects directly to the battery. There was a cap that went over the end of the connector when not in use. I didn't put it on and the pigtail was just connected flopping around. Somehow when the pigtail was flopping, a cotterpin on the frame found it's way into the positive side of the connector. Within minutes my wiring harness was melted completely from ignition switch to tail light and smoke everywhere. My wife is screaming that smoke is coming out of the garage and I'm spinning around trying to take in what was going on. All the time money and aggravation over what a simple fusible link could've prevented for under $5. The new pigtails the company provides now uses a fusible link. Don't underestimate a 12 v battery.
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Post  Scratch049 Mon Apr 26, 2021 7:55 am

I just plug the red lead into the top hole.
And the black lead in the lower green hole. (hopefully)
See,things like this drive an ocd person like myself nuts.
I need to look around for some black and red paint.
Going on Amazon to see if I can add an in line fuse to my next order.
Ken has scared the crap out of me. Paranoid
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Post  getback Mon Apr 26, 2021 9:03 am

I like mine over the alternative , i get my battery from a guy i met some years ago for free they are used but only for keeping computers on standby ?? sealed non the least and last like brand new , if maintained ! I built my box yrs. ago from a kit (name escapes me)  Old School ?  Brm_ru10 This is the small part of the box that pulls out from the rest of it were it sets , i need to do some work on the hole thing and go for another battery . Smile
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Post  rsv1cox Mon Apr 26, 2021 9:57 am

Well, you guys sent me out to the garage to check mine which is really Old School and no longer available.  You show it's replacement.

Tower Hobby's Deluxe Power Panel. I thought it was fused internally but it isn't.  But I have installed an on/off switch opening the circuit between panel and battery which will do the job as long as I'm careful.  

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Post  Coxfledgling Mon Apr 26, 2021 1:20 pm

All my field requirements are in one box which is on wheels.

An upper box contains the tx, tools in a side box, both with lids.

This box fits on top of the lower box containing half gallon of fuel and hand pump, centre is a 12ah motorcycle battery and a control board with adjustable output for glow, switches for electric fuel pump in and out, and the outer bay contains the starter motor.

This whole unit is designed to be accommodated and held securely in the car.

Stuff can get heavy hence the he wheels.

Power, fuel, tools, starter and radio gear all in one hassle free wheeled unit.

Works for me as sometimes the flying site is some distance from the car.
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Post  NEW222 Mon Apr 26, 2021 2:08 pm

I still have and use a field box for my RC planes. Although to be fair and honest, I mostly use it for the starter, but do frequently end up using the glow starter as well cause I usually forget to charge my NiCd starter. I also have a small field box for my 1/2a planes too that has a very small power panel by DuraTrax as seen here. It is only about 2 inches tall by 3 1/2 inches wide.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/duratrax-kwikpit-mini-power-panel-12v-dc-dtxp5770/p643893
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Post  Scratch049 Thu May 06, 2021 8:35 am

Appreciate all your thoughts gentlemen.
Looking at one of the Sig field boxes instead of my original thoughts.
Also have a 10 amp spade type fuse holder coming from the "Bay".
I figure its cheap insurance. Thank you Ken.
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Post  Dick Russ Wed Nov 24, 2021 3:57 pm

Scratch049 wrote:Recently got a Hanger 9 power panel.
My idea is to screw it to the side of a tool box with a 12 volt battery inside to run it.
My intent is to have an adjustable source of power for my glow plug.
Power for an electric starter would be available if needed.
Seems like most of the guys at the field are using small hand held glow warmers at the field these days.
Wondering if there is anyone out there still using a power panel. Old Bugger
Scratch...

I use mine as a primary power ssource for my cox engines when on the flying field. It is nice to be able to adjust the power output voltage.
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Post  balogh Wed Nov 24, 2021 4:41 pm

I am using a handy toolbox that houses, among a chaos of various necessary and unnecessary field tools and accessories, a 12 V battery and I mounted a a Hobbico panel on its front side  for powering a starter and glow clip. The battery can be charged through the sockets of the starter motor. There is a separate pair of sockets for a reversable fuel pump connection.

A handheld glow igniter can also be charged through the dummy plug connection on the bottom left of the panel.

A compact and useful setup in my experience.

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Post  944_Jim Wed Nov 24, 2021 9:44 pm

Balogh,
Sweet box! I dig the concept.

Scratch,
I know I smoked a few Norvel and Merlin plugs...it was too easy ensuring the red plug got in the red socket, and the black plug in the black socket, yet not realizing that it was not the electric finger I just plugged in...all those back cords with red/black jacks can get confusing. Now I plug them in at significantly different times during setup...just so I can doublecheck one connected device at that connection time.

The trick regarding your OCD and the green sockets is to change how you look at the sockets. Laughing  Where you may see a break in continuity (no pun intended...electrically speaking), I see colors that will minimize the opportunity to smoke glow plugs...that is, if both sets of sockets are NOT Red/Black.

Also consider, Red/Black mean nothing to a a polarity-agnostic device like glow plugs. So embracing alliteration when looking at "Greenies for Glow plugs," and "Black and Red make a glow plug go dead,"

I may go paint my glow plug sockets and plugs green now!

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Post  NEW222 Wed Nov 24, 2021 10:30 pm

I like the painting the sockets green. Maybe even dummy plugs into the rest. I'll never forget now to check where I plug my glow igniter into. One day I was going to show my dad and engine run that I ran the day before. Fill it up, prime it, hook up the igniter, flip, flip, flip some more. Nothing! Dead plug. Replace plug and start flipping again. Nothing. Plug number 3! Repeat and nothing. So I take the 3 plugs and look at them while I hook them up out of the engine. All dead. Weird, right? So grab the last new one and test it first. Well, it lit up, or should I say it really lit up! Then I realized that I plugged my igniter into the starter plugs. Lesson learned.
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Post  layback209 Thu Nov 25, 2021 10:18 am

Oh man Ken's notes above are really making me reconsider some of my janky 1/2 asst set ups...  I gotta go check my motorcycle tender now to see if it has a in-line fuse.  

Here's my latested box. It's a sig / hanger 9 one that has a few drawers and the power panel comes off to make electric starting less cumbersome. I Really like your tool box idea  and Fred's example above.  Most folks are strapping a 3s lipo to their starter these days (no cords).  But I perfer the box and more forgiving less maintenence classic battery chemistry still (pb, nicad and nimh).  

I also converted a 19v drill battery to be a 12v powersource using a step down transformer electrickery.  I had bought 2 new drill batteries and the drill let the smoke out a week later. So I had to find a use for them. Makes a fantastic nitro engine heater power source for starting those tapered ABC rc car engines.

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Post  Ken Cook Thu Nov 25, 2021 1:50 pm

I recently switched my bike batteries to the AGM style. I had to buy a new Tender because the old one is for lead acid batteries. I bought the battery Tender Station which came with multiple pig tails. I entered the bike today at a antique motorcycle/ car show. I had lots of inquiries to my bike. If I hadn't been standing there when it decided to burn up my electrical harness it would've burnt down my garage and my other bikes.

I have a club member who uses a similar box like yours for starting engines. It weighs a ton and he has a lead acid battery in it. A very bad idea because even metal surrounding it can corrode. If it leaks it just screws everything up. His starter didn't have a inline fuse and it caught fire and he tried to undo the connection while it was shorting. He received a very bad burn from this. Inline fuses are simple cost effective measures to avoid tragedy.
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