Thrust angle for a power pod?

sosam117 wrote:If you get the anodized red aluminum aftermarket venturi, make some paper gaskets to seal the red venturi on either end to the crankcase and the retaining nut that tightens it all together. If you can't make paper gaskets using a toothpick and using some Permatex gasket sealer, spread the Permatex around on the end faces of the red venturi before assembly. This will guarantee that you'll get no air leakage between the crankcase, the red venturi, and the retaining nut.

The "original" anodized venturis when you bought them had the "paper" like gaskets included. I have purchased the later one and they don't include the gaskets?

Thanks, sosam117 on the advice. What you say certainly makes sense. I could understand the plastic version being self sealing, since plastic has a certain amount of give to seal perfectly. Perhaps that is why Cox went with plastic carburetor bodies, to minimize parts counts, lower production costs to be competitively priced below the competition yet be perfectly functional and light weight?

The RTV route is the more expedient since the surfaces are small enough that making paper gaskets would be a more trickey do. I've had really good success with RTV on other engines. Thanks again.

GallopingGhostler wrote:

sosam117 wrote:If you get the anodized red aluminum aftermarket venturi, make some paper gaskets to seal the red venturi on either end to the crankcase and the retaining nut that tightens it all together. If you can't make paper gaskets using a toothpick and using some Permatex gasket sealer, spread the Permatex around on the end faces of the red venturi before assembly. This will guarantee that you'll get no air leakage between the crankcase, the red venturi, and the retaining nut.

The "original" anodized venturis when you bought them had the "paper" like gaskets included. I have purchased the later one and they don't include the gaskets?

Thanks, sosam117 on the advice. What you say certainly makes sense. I could understand the plastic version being self sealing, since plastic has a certain amount of give to seal perfectly. Perhaps that is why Cox went with plastic carburetor bodies, to minimize parts counts, lower production costs to be competitively priced below the competition yet be perfectly functional and light weight?

The RTV route is the more expedient since the surfaces are small enough that making paper gaskets would be a more trickey do. I've had really good success with RTV on other engines. Thanks again.

I have a punch set (inch and metric).
What I do is punch the hole size I need for the crankcase and with the outer diameter I punch it much larger.
Then, assemble the engine together.
After the engine is assembled together, using a "new" exacto blade, I carefully cut the extending "gasket" material even with the outside diameter of the crankcase.

I have tried to punch the gaskets exactly to the correct i.d. and o.d. but the gasket only being about at the most 1/8" wide from one diameter to the other never works out in my manual punch.

I do almost the same thing when I make up my cylinder shims for the SPI on the engines.

Nice work sosam…. It’s nice to be able to make a gasket or shim when needed!!…. I’ve done similar using a Dremel tool and a drafting circle template…. Bore the inner hole to size with the rotary tool…. Mark the outer with the template and cut with scissors leaving a little large…. Finish with needle files and fine sand paper…. The thrust washer for the .020 was made this way….

You know that RTV silicone must be neutral based one, not a acetoxy curing vinegar smelling silicone. Acetoxy silicones eats aluminum within time.

Levent Suberk wrote:You know that RTV silicone must be neutral based one, not a acetoxy curing vinegar smelling silicone. Acetoxy silicones eats aluminum within time.

Thanks Levent for the heads up. I've been using Permatex Ultra Gray, which is also used in automobile aluminum transmission cases. I have also used it on my motorcycle engine casings and heads. Is thermally temperature stable too. So far not a problem, so it should be safe.

GallopingGhostler wrote:

Levent Suberk wrote:You know that RTV silicone must be neutral based one, not a acetoxy curing vinegar smelling silicone. Acetoxy silicones eats aluminum within time.

Thanks Levent for the heads up. I've been using Permatex Ultra Gray, which is also used in automobile aluminum transmission cases. I have also used it on my motorcycle engine casings and heads. Is thermally temperature stable too. So far not a problem, so it should be safe.

I use the same Permatex Ultra Gray with no problems on my motorcycles.
Always use the correct sealant for the right job.
RTV I only use around the bathtub.

Just ordered a combination of parts from both @ExModelEngines and @Cox International to restore the Cox .051 Tee Dee I received along with the power pod 2 weeks ago, to running condition. More to come...

To do this experiment I bought a Guillow's Flying Eagle sailplane.  It cost me $19 dollars!?!?!  I just looked on amazon and they're selling for $38 dollars!!!!!!!




I took it to the park a couple of days ago to test fly it as a glider so I could see its glide and mark the c.g. on the bottom of the wing.  I cannot stress strongly enough how much I do NOT recommend this piece of garbage.  I was afraid that the wings would snap when a wind gust caught the plane as I was carrying it to the center of the field.  This has probably the worst injection molding that I've ever seen.


DO. NOT. BUY. ONE. OF. THESE!!!

I am going to put together one of the E-Z Bees I have in the closet from the move and use that for the experiment.

The Disgusted Mark

Mark, I have seen a few use those, but they also did a few mods to strengthen things for the rigors of R/C flight, fiberglass tape or carbon fiber to strengthen the wing, etc. But with dollar store 3/16" (5 mm) paper reinforced foamboard and various construction insulation foamboard available, one is better off rolling their own, IMO.

I gave mine a couple of thin coats of spar varnish and it stiffened the foam wing considerably…. Kind of a stressed skin effect…. OK for a .020 size glider but a .049 would need spars and/or tape as well…

Quality of Ace R/C foam for wings was excellent for its time. By following their directions, one had a wing that was reasonably sturdy. This involved putting a layer of fiberglass strand tape along the bottom thickest part of the wing (near CG). Some also had a 1/4" strip of the trailing edge removed and a balsa trailing edge glued in place.

The glider Mark was referring to is a farily inexpensive foam chuck glider. It's foam isn't as dense as the Ace and as such is a little weaker. Yes, a very creative individual would be able to do a few things to make it work. But, there are other such gliders out there, which may be more suitable candidates.

I think it may have to do with the quality down to make them cheaper for sales, compared with the same gliders two decades ago. This is why I made the comment to roll one's own (maybe even an Ace Guppy with a K-flex wing) versus attempts to modify a "toy" glider.

Hi George, The wing on Guppy is a Guillows wing…. I cut the roots off to get the wing span close to the original…. Yes, Nowhere near the quality original Ace wings but can work in a pinch with a little massaging…. I’ve even thought of beefing one up and doing a re-make of an Ace Grasshopper…. I had one back in the day and was a lot of fun

I can see that Robert, excellent example of a build, forgot you used an "inexpensive" (everything nowadays is expensive ) toy glider wing.

Myself, I was wild and wooly in my rudder only days, so mine would have to be more sturdily built. I had no problems with getting a plane up high enough, then spiralling a couple times before releasing the rudder and making a plane loop two times. I even snapped the wing spar on my Minnie Mambo! First time I saw after snapping doing a cross between axial and barrel rolls, about 5 quick ones in succession until crashing into tall grass!

At home, trimmed back the silk wing panel, repaired spar, leading and trailing edges, recovered, doped, and back to the same crazy flying again!

Life isn't fun with these planes unless you are living on the edge!

I picked up a few of the cheap foam gliders when they were on sale at a hardware store for $5. Mine were an ok size for an .049 but the wings were swept back to balance better, and look like an airliner. I took the sweep out and covered it with 3/4 oz cloth after reshaping the trailing edge that was 3/8" thick. It is pretty firm. Never finished it because it seems heavy, but is not really too bad. I was going to use a B Bee. I can not use a motor that has no muffler or means to shut off (throttle) at my club either now. Have thought of electric on it. Really that is the way to go, and yes I know this is the Cox forum. Just as a thought on the OP I had a glider called the Duet that was made in Italy with a Jedelsky wing that had a motor pod with maybe 20 degrees up thrust. Worst flyer I ever had, but was quite exciting for the few flights I did. Barely enough power and totally out of control. Just a gradual slow crash maybe 500 feet away, and run over to save it with the motor still screaming away. Motor pods are really more for a glider that you may choose to fly later with a high start or winch IMHO. Much better to mount the engine (motor if lecky) to the front of the fuse. Even with a reedy on the front it will still work with a high start. Just take off the prop and maybe the piston cyl. Here is a thought for a pod that I saw in a mag or somewhere, meant for a Gentle Lady but could be changed for many others. Made from good 1/8' ply and held on with elastics to the front wing hold down for the rubber mounted wings. Oh well the pic will not load here, but it is just a hole to match the front of the glider fuselage and then a square shape above to fit the B Bee bolt pattern. I made the drawing with the motor sideways so it does not stick up so high. The wood is cut so there is a tab on each side for the rubber bands to hold on and go back to the wing dowel.

You’re too kind George, Better called cheap than inexpensive LOL!!!…. I had my doubts after seeing that wonky airfoil when I cut into it…. Some 80 grit paper shapes it up a little better…..Sometimes I even get lucky and catch some lift….OK for a rough field flyer that gets banged up a little is a good job for it

aspeed wrote:I can not use a motor that has no muffler or means to shut off (throttle) at my club either now.

You could use a non-throttled engine on external tank with one of these:

https://www.fourmostproducts.com/our-products/fuel-fittings/


To spare a separate servo, some use full down elevator to snap the fuel supply off.

[

https://www.fourmostproducts.com/our-products/fuel-fittings/


To spare a separate servo, some use full down elevator to snap the fuel supply off.[/quote] Yes, we still use shutoffs in the Goodyear racing and the LA .25 racers. A lighter? and easier way is to run the fuel line past the firewall and drill a hole maybe 1/4", in the firewall and put a hook on the wire to the servo. It pulls back through the firewall and kinks it off. I can still fly with no muffler at the other control line Beanfield. I think maybe no muffler is preferred there by some.

Christmas in April, some needed parts just arrived from @ExModelEngines, .15 wrenches for my Cox Sportsman, venturi, prop thrust plate and crankshaft prop thrust plate washers for my Cox .051 TD, and a few others for the Bees and OK Cub .049's.

FYI, a seller I have bought from (where I got the Cox yellow powdercoat cast .049 crankcase from for my May engine of the month entry), now has the same plastic Medallion/Tee Dee power pod for BIN:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/175608971812 Cox 049 051 Tee Dee Airplane Sailplane Glider Engine Fuel Pod for $35 + tax + $11 shipping to my location:


Seems in good condition. For me, it is a bit more than I would spend (beauty in the eye of the beholder, I spent about the same and gained a "free .051 TD" as a result from another seller) , but, he does allow offers and faithfully ships.

GallopingGhostler wrote:Cox 049 051 Tee Dee Airplane Sailplane Glider Engine Fuel Pod[/color] for $35 + tax + $11 shipping to my location:

Shipping to your location?  Are we buying this for you??

The Observant Mark

batjac wrote:Shipping to your location?  Are we buying this for you??

The Observant Mark

Er, no. Cost to my shipment zone, shipment to yours may cost different.

However if it shows up on my doorstep courtesy of you, I won't complain.

The Grateful George

Ah Ha found the pics of my glider >  
name ??

Nice Glider Eric, Ready for los thermals !!!