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Post  Jason_WI Wed Jun 06, 2012 8:45 pm

Anybody here know the angle of the taper on the car tapered crankshafts? I want to make a few drive plates and would be easier to know the angle and get it right the first time than guessing and burning through Medallion 049 drive plates to make them.
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Post  crankbndr Wed Jun 06, 2012 9:46 pm

I was wondering the same, I was going to try to cut down the flywheel till I found
out the are steel. Now need some other idea.
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Post  Jason_WI Wed Jun 06, 2012 9:57 pm

I could cut one down on the lathe but I wanted to sell the pull starts if I can convert these that I have to plane use. I may have to use my dial indicator and trig to get the angle.
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Post  crankbndr Wed Jun 13, 2012 7:59 am

I'm getting closer to finding something to make drive plates for these cranks, but not there yet.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/290497929226?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_914wt_81
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Post  Jason_WI Wed Jun 13, 2012 5:00 pm

Once I get the piston reset tools done I will make one from a TD 049 drive plate. I think they will work fine and have enough material in the center for the taper.

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Post  crankbndr Thu Jun 14, 2012 8:22 pm

After about an hour of hacking around with primitive hand tools i was able to come up with a driveplate
for the taper crank. I made it out of a plate likes in the foreground only alum. Got to lap it on a little more to
close the gap, but seems to spin true. Used a crank chucked in a drill to do the final fit.
Looked at a mini lathe, to mucho money.

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Post  Jason_WI Fri Jun 15, 2012 2:12 am

I was able to get a tapered drive hub turned. It was a PIA to get the compound set right. Then I had to make a custom tool to cut the inside taper. Here is a pic of the engine with the drive hub attched. I must have the taper set right as I have to pop it off once its set on there. There is a fine line with tapers if you cut too much then the drive plate will hit the crankcase.

Tapered car crankshaft Imgp2621

Tapered car crankshaft Imgp2622
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Post  crankbndr Fri Jun 15, 2012 7:24 am

Wow, nice job. What did you start with? I'll trade 2 new cranks and cases for 2 drive plates.
The plate I started with is common and easy to find.
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Post  nitrosmeller Fri Jun 15, 2012 12:38 pm

did you use a shimm and how much end play is there?
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Post  Jason_WI Fri Jun 15, 2012 3:12 pm

No shimm was used. I can make the endplay anything I want. Right now it is at .007. I can reduce it by making another light cut. Too much of a cut and the drive plate will tighten up against the crankcase.

I used a aluminum killer bee drive plate. I could also use brass ones.
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Post  Jason_WI Sat Jun 16, 2012 7:11 pm

YouTube link of the car engine running. Cox 5x3 prop, 325 glow head, SIG champion 25% with castor added. Forgot my tach so I don't know how fast it was running.



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Post  happydad Sat Jun 16, 2012 7:53 pm

Jason_WI wrote:No shimm was used. I can make the endplay anything I want. Right now it is at .007. I can reduce it by making another light cut. Too much of a cut and the drive plate will tighten up against the crankcase.

I used a aluminum killer bee drive plate. I could also use brass ones.

Jason_WI: can you do a couple for my atwood .049 marine engines? i've already tried using an old beatup TD drive plate, but i don't have the proper tools to get the angle right. and i have several of the hex drive plates i have taken off bad engines. p.s. the angle is almost the same.

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Post  Cribbs74 Sat Jun 16, 2012 8:18 pm

Jason_WI wrote:YouTube link of the car engine running. Cox 5x3 prop, 325 glow head, SIG champion 25% with castor added. Forgot my tach so I don't know how fast it was running.



Jason

Nice run,

Sounded like it was about to run out of fuel and then it just took off again!

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Post  Jason_WI Sat Jun 16, 2012 10:06 pm

happydad wrote:
Jason_WI wrote:No shimm was used. I can make the endplay anything I want. Right now it is at .007. I can reduce it by making another light cut. Too much of a cut and the drive plate will tighten up against the crankcase.

I used a aluminum killer bee drive plate. I could also use brass ones.

Jason_WI: can you do a couple for my atwood .049 marine engines? i've already tried using an old beatup TD drive plate, but i don't have the proper tools to get the angle right. and i have several of the hex drive plates i have taken off bad engines. p.s. the angle is almost the same.

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Happydad,

I would need to see a picture of the engine with the tapered shaft. If I think I can do this then I would need the engine to fit the drive plate to the engine. Send me a PM.

Jason
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Post  Jason_WI Sat Jun 16, 2012 10:15 pm

cribbs74 wrote:
Jason_WI wrote:YouTube link of the car engine running. Cox 5x3 prop, 325 glow head, SIG champion 25% with castor added. Forgot my tach so I don't know how fast it was running.

Jason

Nice run,

Sounded like it was about to run out of fuel and then it just took off again!


Ron,

Seems I am having problems with the test stand resonating and then the engine shakes and fuel spits out the fuel nipples on the backplate. The fuel may be foaming and causing the erratic runs. I may have to press 2-56 insert PEMs in the test stand then add side plates to stiffen it up.

I can find the resonate frequency with the vibration table at work but I think adding side plates will fix it.

Jason
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Post  Cribbs74 Sat Jun 16, 2012 10:46 pm

Jason_WI wrote:
cribbs74 wrote:
Jason_WI wrote:YouTube link of the car engine running. Cox 5x3 prop, 325 glow head, SIG champion 25% with castor added. Forgot my tach so I don't know how fast it was running.

Jason

Nice run,

Sounded like it was about to run out of fuel and then it just took off again!


Ron,

Seems I am having problems with the test stand resonating and then the engine shakes and fuel spits out the fuel nipples on the backplate. The fuel may be foaming and causing the erratic runs. I may have to press 2-56 insert PEMs in the test stand then add side plates to stiffen it up.

I can find the resonate frequency with the vibration table at work but I think adding side plates will fix it.

Jason

She was smooth as a baby's bottom until near the end of the tank so I suppose your theory is plausible.

Why not mount it to your table sandwiched between a thin piece of rubber sheet?

Years ago all wood truck beds were mounted this way to cut down on rattles between the bed and frames. Your local hardware should have 1/8" rubber sheet in either the roofing or plumbing section.

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