Hybrid-Profile Flite Streak/Cox Hyper Viper scratch build

I would certainly watch the weight. If for instance, the wood you choose is quite flexible. This sometimes happens to me. I sand the wood tapering the edges until they're paper thin. To regain the strength, I either glue a small piece of spruce or bass onto the edge that has become weak. In the event it's the fuse, 3 -4 coats of (thinned) dope and proceed with OO silkspan from doubler to tail. You would certainly be amazed at the strength you gain from this with very little weight penalty. Thinned white glue could also be used to install the silkspan which works amazing. This can really tighten up the fuse. I would keep your doubler material as thin as possible. I use 1/64th ply for my doublers as most use 1/32". The 1/32' can add weight which you don't need. I see absolutely no need for you to use 3/8" material unless that would be the look your trying to achieve. If you did choose the 3/8" I would certainly be weighing the pieces to find the lightest. Having a scale on hand is a real handy tool. It allows you to place the heavier wood to the outboard wing eliminating tip weight for one. It also allows you to see the weights of the wood on hand. I've saved almost 2 oz's on full size stunters just in wood selection. Ken

Rusty, since I taper my fuse generally from top to bottom the underside becomes quite thin. As you know when balsa is tapered into a point it has very little side to side resistance and can break off. This would be an area that I would glue a piece of bass on. Many times however if I don't feel the strength is in the wood itself for the fuse, I've even split the fuse down the middle and glued a 1/4" x 1/4" piece of bass or even white pine down the center. Ken