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by MauricioB Yesterday at 7:39 am
Aluminum vs derlin carburator bodies on Tee Dee's
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Aluminum vs derlin carburator bodies on Tee Dee's
Is there a performance difference between aluminum vs derlin carb bodies on TeeDee's?
I had reason to swap to a new body on one of my TeeDee's and chose to put an aluminum body on. (I crashed and broke it)
This engine is now cantankerous and uncooperative!
I did not take the engine back plate off, I just pulled the cylinder and flushed the case and everything else. There were no obvious foreign bodies in the case.
I no extra plastic carb bodies or I would swap right away at this point.
I am running on pressure bladder. This is on my pink zinger. The engine does run. It is just a pain to start now.
Phil
I had reason to swap to a new body on one of my TeeDee's and chose to put an aluminum body on. (I crashed and broke it)
This engine is now cantankerous and uncooperative!
I did not take the engine back plate off, I just pulled the cylinder and flushed the case and everything else. There were no obvious foreign bodies in the case.
I no extra plastic carb bodies or I would swap right away at this point.
I am running on pressure bladder. This is on my pink zinger. The engine does run. It is just a pain to start now.
Phil
pkrankow- Top Poster
- Posts : 3025
Join date : 2012-10-02
Location : Ohio
Re: Aluminum vs derlin carburator bodies on Tee Dee's
No performance difference. The aluminum is more rugged. I have had no problem with them. Did you flush the NVA and clean the small holes in the venturi?
Cribbs74- Moderator
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Posts : 11897
Join date : 2011-10-24
Age : 50
Location : Tuttle, OK
Re: Aluminum vs derlin carburator bodies on Tee Dee's
No and no.
The only bits I didn't flush inside. I did clean them, but I did not verify the passages.
Phil
The only bits I didn't flush inside. I did clean them, but I did not verify the passages.
Phil
pkrankow- Top Poster
- Posts : 3025
Join date : 2012-10-02
Location : Ohio
Re: Aluminum vs derlin carburator bodies on Tee Dee's
That would be something to check. Also wouldn't hurt to check and see if the carb body gasket is not sealing correctly.
Cribbs74- Moderator
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Posts : 11897
Join date : 2011-10-24
Age : 50
Location : Tuttle, OK
Re: Aluminum vs derlin carburator bodies on Tee Dee's
Or to make sure both of them are present.Cribbs74 wrote:That would be something to check. Also wouldn't hurt to check and see if the carb body gasket is not sealing correctly.
I have one on an .049 and it runs fine.
Re: Aluminum vs derlin carburator bodies on Tee Dee's
I put them in. One is a thin washer, the other an o-ring.
I think I'll take the engine down and clean it again.
Phil
I think I'll take the engine down and clean it again.
Phil
pkrankow- Top Poster
- Posts : 3025
Join date : 2012-10-02
Location : Ohio
Re: Aluminum vs derlin carburator bodies on Tee Dee's
Phil,
I had a similar problem and found that, as I tightened up the body on the crankcase, the carb was ending up slightly (and only very slightly!) off centre. This doesn't happen with the delrin one.
After adjusting this - this meant loosening the body twisting it slightly out of line anti-clockwise and then tightening it until I could get the inlet thread perfectly vertical - repeating this time after time until it was right!
It tended to slip on the body to crankcase washer when tightening.
This made one hell of a difference!
It also helped me on my diesel TD - this runs best slightly off centre - before vertical rather than after!
I had a similar problem and found that, as I tightened up the body on the crankcase, the carb was ending up slightly (and only very slightly!) off centre. This doesn't happen with the delrin one.
After adjusting this - this meant loosening the body twisting it slightly out of line anti-clockwise and then tightening it until I could get the inlet thread perfectly vertical - repeating this time after time until it was right!
It tended to slip on the body to crankcase washer when tightening.
This made one hell of a difference!
It also helped me on my diesel TD - this runs best slightly off centre - before vertical rather than after!
ian1954- Diamond Member
- Posts : 2688
Join date : 2011-11-16
Age : 69
Location : England
Re: Aluminum vs derlin carburator bodies on Tee Dee's
I will be taking it down Monday or Tuesday to pieces and inspect everything. I was encountering that exact problem and thought I had it centered.ian1954 wrote:Phil,
I had a similar problem and found that, as I tightened up the body on the crankcase, the carb was ending up slightly (and only very slightly!) off centre. This doesn't happen with the delrin one.
After adjusting this - this meant loosening the body twisting it slightly out of line anti-clockwise and then tightening it until I could get the inlet thread perfectly vertical - repeating this time after time until it was right!
It tended to slip on the body to crankcase washer when tightening.
This made one hell of a difference!
It also helped me on my diesel TD - this runs best slightly off centre - before vertical rather than after!
Phil
pkrankow- Top Poster
- Posts : 3025
Join date : 2012-10-02
Location : Ohio
Re: Aluminum vs derlin carburator bodies on Tee Dee's
Maybe I'll take it down a this morning, soak it in denatured alcohol and put it back together a few minutes ago, after resetting the piston, then fill it with 3-in-1 (yes, not the best there is since it can get "gummy", but I will run the engine soon anyways and not put it up for storage.)
Everything was in order when I took it down. The denatured turn...brown, with lots of particulate.
I am never sure if I am over-doing the reset or not. It felt like it was binding a little before I oiled the piston, but seemed to work better after getting wet and being worked through some. Varnish was pouring out of the socket after I oiled it.
Yes, I use a solid surface to reset on, 168# of Trenton anvil (c.1912) with a 150# ash stump under it. (I am sure a scrap of plywood on the concrete garage floor would be excellent) I use a puny little 8 oz ball pein hammer, tap, rotate, tap rotate...check and repeat, check and repeat and check. The first few checks it seems like I didn't hit it at all, so I hit a little harder, then it makes progress and about 3 or 4 cycles to finish. I don't want to finish too quick and over-smash it.
A bit of tooth brush action on the venturi and etc. Blowing out the NVA to verify clean operation
I put a head gasket between the o-ring and the collet, since my .051 was assembled this way. No effort to align since tightening does not mess with alignment! The head gasket doesn't show either.
It sits on my desk wrapped in paper towel. I put a clamp on head with 2 gaskets, I put #3 in if I find performance is off. I might get it on the airplane tonight even.
Phil
Everything was in order when I took it down. The denatured turn...brown, with lots of particulate.
I am never sure if I am over-doing the reset or not. It felt like it was binding a little before I oiled the piston, but seemed to work better after getting wet and being worked through some. Varnish was pouring out of the socket after I oiled it.
Yes, I use a solid surface to reset on, 168# of Trenton anvil (c.1912) with a 150# ash stump under it. (I am sure a scrap of plywood on the concrete garage floor would be excellent) I use a puny little 8 oz ball pein hammer, tap, rotate, tap rotate...check and repeat, check and repeat and check. The first few checks it seems like I didn't hit it at all, so I hit a little harder, then it makes progress and about 3 or 4 cycles to finish. I don't want to finish too quick and over-smash it.
A bit of tooth brush action on the venturi and etc. Blowing out the NVA to verify clean operation
I put a head gasket between the o-ring and the collet, since my .051 was assembled this way. No effort to align since tightening does not mess with alignment! The head gasket doesn't show either.
It sits on my desk wrapped in paper towel. I put a clamp on head with 2 gaskets, I put #3 in if I find performance is off. I might get it on the airplane tonight even.
Phil
pkrankow- Top Poster
- Posts : 3025
Join date : 2012-10-02
Location : Ohio
Re: Aluminum vs derlin carburator bodies on Tee Dee's
1 run no restart... Although it was the best run this engine ever gave me! I think I had it under-compressed.
I am going to swap cylinders to a near new one. I think that the Sig Champion stripped the varnish on this one, and the toothbrush finished it.
Now I don't WANT to run the .051 I have. I need a source for quality straight castor fuel, but I have almost 3 quarts of Sig Champion left. These don't burn much fuel at all.
I put a carved up bottle on to hold the bladder on the Pink Zinger, and I think I am now slightly nose heavy since it wouldn't turn like I expected.
OK, wild thought, a drop or two of mineral oil in the exhaust between runs to restore compression for starting?
Phil
I am going to swap cylinders to a near new one. I think that the Sig Champion stripped the varnish on this one, and the toothbrush finished it.
Now I don't WANT to run the .051 I have. I need a source for quality straight castor fuel, but I have almost 3 quarts of Sig Champion left. These don't burn much fuel at all.
I put a carved up bottle on to hold the bladder on the Pink Zinger, and I think I am now slightly nose heavy since it wouldn't turn like I expected.
OK, wild thought, a drop or two of mineral oil in the exhaust between runs to restore compression for starting?
Phil
pkrankow- Top Poster
- Posts : 3025
Join date : 2012-10-02
Location : Ohio
Re: Aluminum vs derlin carburator bodies on Tee Dee's
So much for Monday or Tuesday. Maybe I'll get time for a couple more runs!
Phil
Phil
pkrankow- Top Poster
- Posts : 3025
Join date : 2012-10-02
Location : Ohio
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