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How to remove shims? Empty How to remove shims?

Post  flyjsh Tue Nov 04, 2014 2:05 pm

Howdy all,

Okay, I know this sounds silly, but how the heck do you tease out the shims? Yesterday I was making my first attempts at tuning and had a devil of a time coaxing the buggers out.

Embarassed DAMMIT!

Thanks
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Post  1/2A Nut Tue Nov 04, 2014 2:16 pm

I use a sharp pointed exacto blade and lift / catching an edge of the shim till it pops up enough to get under it further with the blade then its a gentle lift out. Small Cox Logo
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Post  pkrankow Tue Nov 04, 2014 2:28 pm

I use a fine screwdriver, or the corner of a Cox wrench, or a knife blade, or some other pointy object, or I flush them out with fuel onto my hand...

Having several tricks available means the gasket shim comes out undamaged with what you have on hand.

Phil
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Post  Cribbs74 Tue Nov 04, 2014 3:07 pm

A knife works well as mentioned. So does a toothpick, more often than not I just jam my pinky into the cylinder and the gaskets come out with it when I pull it out.

Not everyone has a calibrated finger though Very Happy
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How to remove shims? Empty Harbor Freight Must have for any real Cox engine dude!

Post  fredvon4 Tue Nov 04, 2014 3:26 pm

These $2.99 buggers hurt just like the scaples will but are required!

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Post  roddie Tue Nov 04, 2014 3:59 pm

I've used a #11 blade too.. but I prefer a safety-pin or common-pin. I gently "slide" the point along the joint.. until the shim/gasket starts to lift.. then I hook it with the pin. This minimizes bending or damaging it. Cohesion with the oils can make them "stubborn little buggers" to remove indeed.
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Post  crankbndr Tue Nov 04, 2014 4:26 pm

Talking about shims sometimes they don't seal well and I think they might be hardened, I have many but they are very old and used.
I heard you can soften them up again with heat, what is a good way to heat them without melting or turning them into pretzels?
Would a 500 degree oven do the job or do I need fire?
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Post  flyjsh Tue Nov 04, 2014 4:43 pm

Thanks for the replies. I was worried about using a knife thinking I might score the cylinder.
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Post  crankbndr Tue Nov 04, 2014 4:55 pm

flyjsh wrote:Thanks for the replies.  I was worried about using a knife thinking I might score the cylinder.


My hands are not good enough to use a blade, I would maybe scratch the cylinder wall so I use plastic or wood toothpicks.
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Post  rsv1cox Tue Nov 04, 2014 4:59 pm

Whenever I remove a cylinder and run a fiber bore brush up through it to clean it I usually find the shims in the bristles. Easy and safe way to get them out however unintended it may be.
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Post  Admin Tue Nov 04, 2014 6:10 pm

crankbndr wrote:

My hands are not good enough to use a blade, I would maybe scratch the cylinder wall so I use plastic or wood toothpicks.

I too use wood toothpicks, don't want to risk scratching the cylinder any. I also use my pinky finger LOL.

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Post  RknRusty Tue Nov 04, 2014 8:17 pm

crankbndr wrote:Talking about shims sometimes they don't seal well and I think they might be hardened, I have many but they are very old and used.
I heard you can soften them up again with heat, what is a good way to heat them without melting or turning them into pretzels?
Would a 500 degree oven do the job or do I need fire?
Crank, as I understand it, you need to heat the hardened shims until they glow red, then let cool at room temp. That will restore the malleability but it still may be thinner than when it was new.
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Post  pkrankow Tue Nov 04, 2014 10:21 pm

500F isn't hot enough, dull red in dim lighting is to anneal copper. This is about 1000F.

Phil
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Post  fredvon4 Wed Nov 05, 2014 8:32 am

I drape the shims over the clip of a "extra hands" holder again from Harbor Freight for cheap
and usually just a few seconds from the Propane torch has them a dull red and done

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