010 TeeDee - Stuck and need advice

AMCGUY Wed Apr 08, 2015 8:38 pm

I have my first 010 TeeDee! Unfortunately it is stuck pretty good. I've read some of the suggestions here and have tried some with no success. I will get a little more serious this weekend. I tried to remove the head (only had one tool....have another on the way), but the cylinder turned instead of the head....the piston wasn't turning. I didn't know it could do that!...is the piston and rod OK?

I'll try again when I get the second tool, but the tool doesn't seem to grab the cylinder well, so not sure what kind of luck I might have.

There is a crack in the carb body so may have to replace. There are some used ones on ebay as well as some new repop ones. Any recommendations on which to go with? leaning toward used original.

Tried to remove the drive plate/thrust washer, but it's stuck tight. The Cox instructions mentioned engaging the prop screw a few threads and tapping the screw with a hammer. Tried a couple taps, but scared to get too aggressive...

Any recommendations or words of encouragement would be appreciated.

Darron

Jason_WI Wed Apr 08, 2015 9:06 pm

Having rebuilt a couple of .010's I always use heat from a monokote heat gun. Heat the engine with the heat gun and you should not have any issues with removing the head from the cyinder. Be careful as too much force can deform the .010 cylinder rendering it unusable.

I use a small arbor press to remove the drive plate from the crankshaft. A nice even amount of force is applied vs hitting with a hammer that can damage threads in the .010 crankshaft.

I would opt for the new carb body. Old used ones can be brittle.

pkrankow Wed Apr 08, 2015 9:09 pm

The piston has a ball joint, not a wrist pin. As engines go it is pretty unique in this respect. The piston rotates freely on the con rod. You might need to reset it after this, but that is minor.

Did you soak it in anything? I recommend a jar of denatured alcohol for a couple days. It is pretty amazing what that alone will do.

Next after it is well soaked heat it up with a hair dryer or heat gun). All kinds of yuck will start bubbling out at the correct temperature. Use the correct tools and act quickly and deliberately. Don't rush you can reheat. Place all part on clean paper to cool, dunking may deform heated parts just enough to be a pain and a half.

That ought to do it, I think. There might be specifics to your engine, but I haven't played with the really little ones.

Phil

AMCGUY Wed Apr 08, 2015 11:01 pm

Thanks for the info and ideas.

When you say "denatured alcohol"....do you mean isopropyl alcohol? Would that work better than methanol?

roddie Thu Apr 09, 2015 12:02 am

AMCGUY wrote:Thanks for the info and ideas.

When you say "denatured alcohol"....do you mean isopropyl alcohol? Would that work better than methanol?

Denatured alcohol is usually found in the hardware/paint section. I've never used methanol as a soak. I just learned about that recently. I suppose if you had some fuel that's gone bad.. it wouldn't be a waste to try.

I like Jason's suggestion of using an arbor press to remove the drive-plate. That's one thing I'd really like to have in my shop.

706jim Thu Apr 09, 2015 12:14 am

[quote="roddie"]

AMCGUY wrote:
I like Jason's suggestion of using an arbor press to remove the drive-plate. That's one thing I'd really like to have in my shop.

Harbor Freight. Cheap and compact.

pkrankow Thu Apr 09, 2015 7:26 am

AMCGUY wrote:Thanks for the info and ideas.

When you say "denatured alcohol"....do you mean isopropyl alcohol? Would that work better than methanol?

Denatured alcohol in the USA is usually a blend of ethanol and methanol. It is cheaper than fuel or methanol, and is readily available at most hardware and home improvement stores..

Phil

getback Thu Apr 09, 2015 8:24 am

Denatured alcohol yes / reg. alcohol no it has water in it can rust and make engines real stiff , walmart is here is cheaper than lowes by 2.00 . Also was not mention to take all the plastic parts off before heating ! I use the oven mit to keep from burning self , have put them in the toaster oven at 300 degree for 10 mins. or so pull out mount an old prop to it and use light oil in ports and crank / case and try turning it over a little at a time to free up then try taking it apart , ( you may have to heat again but this has worked real well for me ) I have cleaned a bunch of engines for resale . Eric Flying