Jim Walker , Baby Barnstormer

Back in the olden days, clockwise was a more popular direction. One of the fliers here in his 80's still flies CW.

The Spring Chicken Mark

Just run the leadouts down the other wing.

You may have to flip the bellcrank and rod around, but it would be really simple.

One of my forum mentors after I started ramping up my hobby, the late Jim Thomerson, who designed and built sophisticated full fuse pattern planes from 1/2A up to 40 size, didn't realize he'd built one backwards until it was way too late to change. The controls were sealed up inside, so he decided to learn to fly backwards. He said he could fly a decent pattern, but never without having to consciously force it.

Jim passed away a couple of months ago. I noticed his forum participation on SH had slowed, and most of my early contact with him was at RCG before I found CEF. But his last post of advice and help to someone was within a couple of days of the end.

Just passing along another sad memory.
R. Buzz Killington

The parts listed don't show the RIBS for cut out /// This is one of my main concerns I Guess ii should have said that but , was in a hurry . The only profile of the wing rib is in that first pic could I use that you think ? Look were the wing goes through the fuse .

getback wrote: The parts listed don't show the RIBS for cut out /// This is one of my main concerns I Guess ii should have said that but , was in a hurry . The only profile of the wing rib is in that first pic could I use that you think ? Look were the wing goes through the fuse .

The wing looks constant-chord to me.. and I don't see any sheeting near the root, so I'd say that the ribs can all be the same size. I think you'll want to make 11 pairs. It looks like the root-pair are doubled (for the fuse-sides to bear-on maybe?) Does it state on the plans, the stock thickness? Probably 1/16" or 3/32".. Do you have a drill-press and a balsa stripper? You'd probably get all your ribs from x5 strips of 3/4"W x 36"L. stock. Measure the thickest part of the airfoil and the O/A rib-length.. and cut 22 rectangular blanks; 1/8" to 3/16" larger/longer. Make 2 stacks of 11.. and mark 2 points on the centerline.. approx. where the lead-out holes should be. Drill straight through using a 1/4" dia. Forstner bit and cut 1/4" hardwood dowel-pegs to pin the stacks together and transfer your rib-template for cutting the profile. Cut the stacks on a scroll-saw.. keeping slightly outside your reference-line. Sand to finish-profile. You can open up the inboard lead-out holes with a 3/16" hardwood dowel wrapped w/sandpaper.

The wing's T/E lightening-holes seem overkill to me.. but if you have a "set" of Forstner-drill bits, you could make them on the drill-press, using a backing block under the balsa stock. Again; curious as to the stock thickness.. I'm guessing 1/16" balsa sheet throughout the wing's construction.. less spar. The spars look to be 1/8" or 3/16" square stock.

I really like this little model.. because it uses big-boy construction-techniques. Not too common in 1/2A. Looks like a tedious build.. but it's also something that will hone your fine-motor skills. Many people don't like working with small fragile parts.. and this model has quite a few. It doesn't surprise me that Guillows kitted it.

Half the battle to building "any" built-up model is having the tools ready to do the job at hand. Slots for the spars can be cut into the rib-stacks after you sand-in the profile.. You've read recently about those nifty slot-depth gaged T-sanding blocks that you can make. How about the RCM wing-jig that you made? Are you planning to use it on this wing? The 1/4" rods would be perfect if you make the rib-stacks the way I mentioned in my previous post. You could use smaller diameter rods Eric. 3/16" or even 1/8" would work for a thin airfoil. The important thing is that the rods are straight and accurate standard diameter. The hardwood dowel-pegs for pinning the rib-stack for cutting, should also be measured for accurate diameter. They should fit snugly.

These suggestions are just the way I'd do it. The RCM jig aligns the ribs perfectly.. and I think it would work really well for this wing-construction.. although I'd like to see the full plan/instruction sheet. Can you capture a high-res photo of it?

Roddie , here are some better pics          man that took a while I forgot what the question was now

good looking plans! could bee another laser project

If you want I will get the plans copied and send them to you to smoke over But you would have to change it to counter clockwise

getback wrote:If you want I will get the plans copied and send them to you to smoke over But you would have to change it to counter clockwise

Don't forget.. Most rotary-valve engines are CCW rotation. Most Control-line models are set-up (designed) with the controls on the left wing. I have come to wonder why.. and I assume it's a more natural way to fly, for a right-handed person. However.. the engine wants to roll the model to the left.. which is counter-productive to maintaining line-tension.

It would be difficult to learn flying a CW rotation pattern.. after years of flying CCW.. but it might be worth trying and I think that you should build this airplane to spec. You may be pleasantly surprised by the way it performs.. or you could get instantly dizzy and start vomiting after you realize you've made a terrible mistake.. and are now committed to flying out a tankful of fuel. All kidding aside.. I think you're up for the challenge. If you build it for conventional CCW flight.. and it falls short of your expectations; you'll always wonder if you should have built it as designed.

that would be a site to see puking and flying ... it amazes me to watch left hand people fly , could run the engine the other way with Bernie's boiling before you runum  props I have a few of them free for the taking w/order , just ask . It could bee a good way to unwind after flying CCW , does make you wonder though, but I would want to try it on a less hard to build model first (slab wing)

getback wrote: that would be a site to see puking and flying ... it amazes me to watch left hand people fly , could run the engine the other way with Bernie's boiling before you runum  props I have a few of them free for the taking w/order , just ask . It could bee a good way to unwind after flying CCW , does make you wonder though, but I would want to try it on a less hard to build model first (slab wing)

i'm left handed

i could not imagine turning the other way... or flying with my right hand

What was the reference to Jim Walker in the first post?

GWILLIEFOX I was just wondering why it was a clock wise flyer . I didn't know this when I was looking for the plans , Eric