Babe Bee Metal Fuel Tube

An easy way to bend small metal tubing without kinking it is to run a bunch of metal wire or thin flexible rod (like welding rods) through it, as many as you can fit, making sure to leave plenty hanging out each side of the tube. Then to concentrate on bending several spots next to each other (opposed to making one 90* bend in one spot which will always kink ) you can do this by slipping the tube into another tube that's only slightly larger but made of stronger material, and then making one bend of only a few degrees, then slide the tube out just tad, and make another bend of only a few degrees and repeating the process until you get the bend total overall bend you want (yes heat such as a propane or map gas torch will help here) then once it's cooled off, grab the wire or rod we left hanging out each side and slip it out. Basically like mandrel mending. I've been able to even bend stainless steel tubing into a spring like spiral using this method.
Copper tubing will be easier to bend and manipulate without cracking, but I don't know how the fuel will react with the copper over time since it's a very active metal and tends to create a very heavy patina, and with aluminum you'd have to watch what type of aluminum tubing you use, some aluminum wants to crack almost immediately when bent, while others will bend with ease, however I've totally forgotten which numbers of aluminum were best for what. I know 6061 is a very strong aluminum type, but I think it doesn't like to be bent.
Hope this helps.

Brass in not a good choice. Aluminum is better and it would need to be annealed. Copper turns cherry red when the temp is correct, aluminum doesn't turn any color, it melts. Take a bar of soap and rub it onto the aluminum. Heat the tubing until the soap turns black and stop. Copper when annealed needs to slowly cool back to room temperature. I suggest K&S tubing due to it being seamless. This can readily be purchased at most hobby shops. I've done many on tanked Bee engines and I use a piece of medium tubing to join it onto the fuel barb. All of mine were on Black Widow /Golden Bee engines where you have more room inside. A Baby Bee is going to require a pretty tight radius.Ken

Ken cook your right brass is really not a good idea

Thank you all for the replies and help. I did actually find the article where I first seen this and go figure, it was done by none other than our own Paul G. It was a mouse racing tuning article found at Cox International. There he made mention to soft aluminum with a 3/32 od. Again, thanks to all for the help and suggestions.

Its alright no need for thanks

AUjack2003 wrote:Its alright no need for thanks  

Don't get cheeky Jack

NEW222 wrote:Hi again all.  I was thinking of trying a metal fuel tube, or line, in my Babe Bee engine.   I know the basics, such as using a small piece of fuel tubing to attach it to the backplate, but I was just wondering which material would be best, as well as diameter to use.  And lastly, would I make it the same length as the original?  Thank you.

Glad you asked New, I've been wanting to do this too.
Greg

KariFS wrote:I have thought and tried this also but I only had some 1/8" brass tube on hand. I could not bend it into that tight of a radius without kinking the tube. I tried to bend it cold around a bolt or a rod of approximately correct diameter.

Would aluminum or copper be better? Should the pipe be heated?

Fill the tube with sand, bend it around a form then clean out the sand. Works for me.

Regards,
Tony

Thanks again. I picked up a piece today 3/32 o/d aluminum. I really like the sand idea. I even have some by the shed left over from leveling. But, with quite the crap show this week, I may not be able to get that far till Sunday. I will keep you posted on my results.

7/64" worked well for me on the only engine I have done that to.
Rusty

I Have never did one that way new silicone fuel hose has worked fine for me with the spring of coarse

NEW222 wrote:Hi again all.  I was thinking of trying a metal fuel tube, or line, in my Babe Bee engine.   I know the basics, such as using a small piece of fuel tubing to attach it to the backplate, but I was just wondering which material would be best, as well as diameter to use.  And lastly, would I make it the same length as the original?  Thank you.

Hi There,

I find K&S 3/32" O.D. Alum tubing works very well. Attach to tank back with any fuel tubing that fits TIGHT. You don't want to risk a leak here. I use a Harry Higley tubing bender to make my smooth radius bends. The end is filed at an angle to nestle into the backplate & ensure no possible movement once the tank is assembled. All my engines have this mod & it works super in racing or combat use. Your engine will run longer now that the engine can access every last drop of fuel.
It's pretty easy to do.  Good Luck!

Cheers, Paul

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That is a very nice tool you have there. I also thank you for chiming in on this as well. I will be trying to bend one hopefully shortly here so I can get it up in the air this weekend.

Ok. So I tried it tonight. I had filled the tube carefully with sand and went for it. I slowly and carefully tried to roll it around a drill bit, but in turn, it cracked every time! So, I now have only a short piece left and will probably try it again with wire inserted, hoping that it will not be as fragile. This however will not be attempted till Sunday afternoon. I now have the engine assembled and ready to mount for flying this weekend.

You can do it just keep trying and you'll get there!

New, try putting two big drill bits side by side in the vice and then insert the tube between them. Anneal it first, that will make it bend much more easily. Some people rub soap all over it and heat it until the soap is black. It's soft when it cools and easy to bend. It will harden again after a while. Others just heat it until it's red hot, but that may overdo it if you're not careful.

I use one of these Dubro benders. I think it was about $5 bucks:
Rusty

SigSkyray, if you are reading this, look at Paul's backplate. The metal ones have a shelf above the screw boss, which he uses to support the end of his pickup tube. That's the 8:00 position I mentioned in our e-mail re: your BW. The plastic ones don't have that, but that's the position. Between 8 and 9 oclock.
Rusty

RknRusty wrote:SigSkyray, if you are reading this, look at Paul's backplate. The metal ones have a shelf above the screw boss, which he uses to support the end of his pickup tube. That's the 8:00 position I mentioned in our e-mail re: your BW. The plastic ones don't have that, but that's the position. Between 8 and 9 oclock.
Rusty

Got it. Thank you Rusty. Most of my backplates are metal.
Greg

I drill a hole in that shelf with a pin vise and wire tie the fuel pickup there.