Some scans I just got around to.

Don't always believe what you read. The wrench instructions shown there is the perfect way to destroy an engine. For those that don't know, don't stick a wrench in the exhaust ports. I have to hand it to Cox, I guess you could say those pictures worked like a marketing tool. Using the wrenches as pictures will either distort or burr the cylinders.

Ken Cook wrote:              Don't always believe what you read. The wrench instructions shown there is the perfect way to destroy an engine. For those that don't know, don't stick a wrench in the exhaust ports. I have to hand it to Cox, I guess you could say those pictures worked like a marketing tool. Using the wrenches as pictures will either distort or burr the cylinders.

I think that the Cox wrenches have merit. Better than using the dreaded pliers. What was a kid supposed to do, if the cylinder loosened from the case when trying to change a glowhead? Granted; their later design of milling wrench-flats into the top of their cylinders was a better idea.

All my cox wrenches are made of so soft metal (calling it steel would be an insult to the steel industry) that their jaws give up way before any damage could be made to a cylinder if used as instructed. That is, the tool is used as shown in the picture, and NOT inserted into the exhaust port and through the cylinder.

Maybe older tools were made of a tougher material? I have even thought of having a few tools made from tougher, a little thicker material, water- or laser-cut.

I did almost destroy a Tee Dee cylinder once, but I used the Cox tool incorrectly then. The cylinder was stuck, I went to Hulk mode, hooked the part of the tool meant for glowhead around the cylinder and turned until the veins on my forehead almost popped... I did get the cylinder off but also deformed it enough to make the piston stick at the exh ports. This was a thick wall cylinder. I am still thankful to Ken and others who told me how to fix it

I also have a couple of step style cylinders that have the pistons stuck, that was the way those engines arrived to me. Maybe thin and step style cylinders are more easily damaged?

Admin wrote:Nice! Do you mind if I add these to the "Instruction Sheets" page?

Be my guest. I can also scan them as .pdf if you'd prefer that.

The Accomidating Mark

KariFS wrote:I did almost destroy a Tee Dee cylinder once, but I used the Cox tool incorrectly then. The cylinder was stuck, I went to Hulk mode, hooked the part of the tool meant for glowhead around the cylinder and turned until the veins on my forehead almost popped...

Kari, I have actually seen Cox literature that shows using a similar method on Cox .15 cylinders to remove the cylinder.  I'll have to try and remember to dig up the instructions that have that.

The Incredulous Mark

edit: The method is in the 15Tee Dee Special MK II instructions : Instruction Sheet  
You don't use the glow plug opening, but you do use the collet opening on the wrench to hook the cylinder.  Since there's only one slit to the cylinder and the fins are not slotted, that's the only way to get it done.

The Special Mark