Part ID: Back Plate Extension?

Yes, good idea on the seals. I tried doing something similar by filling the holes with epoxy and re-drilling the holes. It still leaked. By using screws that are partially threaded I think I can create a good seal. I'll start a new thread when I come up with a new design. Now to find the proper screws, button head type?

I'm not sure how this would be mounted on a plane. I have thought about something like this, but with ears on. I have a backplate where one bolt pulled through the backplate hole. I was going to epoxy it on. It should not leak too much if the counterbore is made well. A countersink would likely leak. Maybe a nylon washer or tubing as mentioned. I was at a Mouse race a long time ago and a guy had a backplate adaptor bolted on like that, and then he fastened it on to the plane somehow. I figured it out back then but can't now. He removed the ears on the backplate for the extra 110% speed.

Hi John, I can't see any practical use for that extension. Mounting that engine to a model's firewall would be more difficult.. and it's a simple matter to extend a Cox Bee-type engine forward 1/4".. if that was the intention.. but I don't think it was. The piece looks to be made with precision. Someone knew what it was made for. I have noticed some Facebook pages that deal with Cox engines. Maybe try posting the photos there.. to see if someone recognizes that part.. and knows why it was made.

Thank you for all the input on this guys- I had no idea of its purpose. It is very well made and I assumed it was made by a company. It's an interesting piece and I wish I knew who made it and why?

I have parts coming in tomorrows mail that will make this engine into a runner from EX, but I'm not sure if I want to leave the spacer off or reinstall it as it's a part of the engines history.

Thanks again,
John

Hi again John, If you want to run that engine with that.. let's call it aftermarket spacer, You will need to source two more screws to mount it to the engine. They're size 2-56 but need to be longer than the OEM screws for the 8cc tank that's on there now. Maybe you can source two more of the two that you have there?

In any case; there's the need to have the tank seal properly. I think you'll need to make a gasket for in-between. The longer 2-56 screws need to seal under their heads. If not; fuel will leak there. Maybe the rubber from an inner-tube (bicycle type) could be used. The extension could be used as a template for cutting the outer diameter, piercing the four screw-holes.. and then the center (venturi) hole can be punched-out to approximately 5/16" diameter. This should provide an effective seal between the backplate and the extension. It also may provide for the proper clearance; so that the screws do not bottom-out in the case prior to pulling all the parts together snug.. you know? That's a concern even with the OEM parts being used. It will be even more important when installing the four screws, that they be alternately snugged/tightened.. so as to seat the whole assembly evenly.

A built-up fuselage would provide more options.. especially if you're going for a scale/semi-scale appearance.

Mounting the engine in a model can be done by utilizing the four Cox back-plate "ears".. but it will require a firewall with an opening just big enough for the extension to fit through.. and have the means to anchor four screws just outside of that opening. Aircraft birch plywood would be my choice. The thickness depends on what you intend to use for fasteners. Wood-screws (size #3) would need to bite-into solid (not balsa) wood. You may prefer to source #3-48 machine-screws.. and backing-nuts. DuBro used to sell #3-48 hardware. If you ever see some.. consider a purchase. It's a common size to American-made model IC engines as well. The Cox .020 engines utilize a 3-48 propeller-screw. Their .049's incidentally use a size 5-40 prop-screw.

The nose could be designed to receive the firewall as a modular component.. which could influence your choice of fasteners for mounting the engine.