cox 010 cylinder wanted

aaaw
also I have not contacted them yet
I hoped people here could help me firsth

I believe you will have to wait a very long time to find one betterr buy new one Rather than wait for the impossible to happen

It’s one of the most sought after parts and when you do find one it comes at a premium. My advice would be to start looking for whole engines.

A lot of poor compression issues can be solved by replacing the head. TD.010’s are notorious for leaking around the head and through the post. A new gasket/shim is a good idea as well. It’s takes a good bit of use to wear out a cylinder.

Cribbs74 wrote:It’s one of the most sought after parts and when you do find one it comes at a premium. My advice would be to start looking for whole engines.
A lot of poor compression issues can be solved by replacing the head. TD.010’s are notorious for leaking around the head and through the post. A new gasket/shim is a good idea as well. It’s takes a good bit of use to wear out a cylinder.

Agreed! Mr. Cribbs knows of what he speaks. The .010 heads do leak, but old head gaskets are a
definite item worth replacing. The smaller the displacement, the more crucial leaks in the
combustion chamber become. Same with the fuel supply.
  On the other hand, several engine rotations without lubrication will shorten the life of any
cylinder. In hindsight, removing the piston, while working the kinks out of the starter, might have
been a good idea. I probably wouldn't have thought of it, but hindsight is 20/20.
I hope you resolve this without having to wait for a cylinder to show up.
Bob

Cribbs74 wrote:It’s one of the most sought after parts and when you do find one it comes at a premium. My advice would be to start looking for whole engines.

A lot of poor compression issues can be solved by replacing the head. TD.010’s are notorious for leaking around the head and through the post. A new gasket/shim is a good idea as well. It’s takes a good bit of use to wear out a cylinder.

oke in that case I would need to order shims I dont have tose on hand

I just tried a copper ring from my spare glow head
and It still doesnt start
so I think it realy is the cylinder that is crap

Try the spare glow head too. Not just the shim/gasket.

will do
once my glow battery is full

Do you have two .010’s?

If you do, remove the suspect cylinder and install it on your other engine. Preferably piston as well. If it starts and runs then you have a problem somewhere else.

The TD .010, due to size doesn’t give you that same pop and bump when going through the compression stroke like the larger engines do. What may seem like poor compression is actually adequate.

You can also compare how compression feels with the good engine.

Did you ever run it dry with the electric start mechanism?

nope I did not run it dry
and the head works on my good cylinder
but the cylinder does nothing
it does try though

If you have tried everything I suggested then last thing would be is to remove it from the electric start rig and try and run it with a prop on a bench. The TD .010 can’t handle much of a load.

It could very well be the cylinder, but I wouldn’t call it until you have eliminated all the variables.

I work in a job that requires me to troubleshoot and diagnose bad parts. I see a lot of misdiagnosed problems because people didn’t take the time to eliminate every possibility.

I am not accusing you of that, just want to be sure it’s actually bad. A video of what your experiencing would be very helpful.

Are you running it without a heatsink? Are you using a fan to keep it cool?

I am trying to run it on a bench with a normal prop
and the best it does is a run of 10 sec were it drowns in fuel
I add my good cylinder and try to start it it runs way to rich but it stays running
and this is with the piston of the not so good cylinder

the glowhead works on the good cylinder
and the bad cylinder only does bursts and it doesnt matter what head I use
and I use a 010 prop
if I run the electric started one I run it to rich to keep it cool

While two different symptoms it appears both are being affected by too much fuel delivery. What does your fuel setup look like and is the fuel tank above the the engine?

TD’s in general are fuel finicky. They flood easily.

Try and sneak up on it from the lean side. As in close the needle valve, prime and repeat while slowly opening up the needle small amounts. For priming a drop of fuel in the venturi is sufficient. Repeat until it stays running on the lean side of things and then adjust the needle for a steady run.  It’s backwards from the normal way, but it insures it won’t flood.

A really worn cylinder won’t even start in bursts... it just won’t do anything. These engines aren’t designed to run well rich. They really like to breathe and wind up.

Y try m'y self diagnostique the trouble if u have a hi compression run wit les fuel so normal the bether cylinder wil run ritch m'y tee dee .010 wil start wit just slow turn if y try spin faster wil Not start try wit lower nitro like 15% wil help start on the configuration the engine is loded on start wit noting To holde him u need To run Somting wit prop = drag flyweel = no drag the engine wil run To fast and stop Not just from the over heat from not enough gas it hapen To one of m'y home build rc cars powered wit tee dee .049 ventury is possible stuck wit dry castor There are several holes on the ventury if just one of them is block the hi speed wil Not work Correctly y tink u best chance is To change the engine and never atempt To start without mécanisme To run like m'y .010 cobra rc cars use friction clutch like on the cox Snowmobile engine yes is posible To run ritch a bit Not To mutch ad oil m'y the tee dee in m'y cobra was new never run y have run wit the prop in plane than y no y have Good engine y than place him inside its new home m'y flyweel used on the engine is very smal and very light its wy it work for me if m'y batry To powerful wil Not start it has To turn just like.wit hand finger flick slowly Not multiples rpm

Dont want to hijak post y have spare parts so y can take picturs is


som of the part use in m'y cars

the one that runs runs great
no problems with the fuel (original backplate tank)
the other one wont run
it trys to run if its to rich but that is probaly because the extra fuel makes a seal and the compression goes high enough

and if i set it correctly with the good cylinder it wont run with the bad one

to compile
1 have 2 cox 010's
1 electric start
1 normal

both use the backplate tank

1 cylinder runs great on both engines
1 cylinder only runs 5-10 sec on both engines but only if it is WAY to rich


the good cylinder runs with all 3 glow heads I have
the other one does not

so I still say the bad cylinder is worn
and it tries to run because the extra fuel makes it seal just enough to try and start
same as every worn engine that exist (no realy if a engine has low compression and wont start give it a shot of 2 stroke oil trough the sparkplug hole and it will start but not run)

Clean the bad cylinder and blacken it's inside with bluing fluid. Bluing will thicken inside of cylinder. Perhaps it will work.

Levent Suberk wrote:Clean the bad cylinder and blacken it's inside with bluing fluid. Bluing will thicken inside of cylinder. Perhaps it will work.

this is a good idea
now I need to find were I can order some

Perma Gun Blue in any gun store. Blue inside of cylinder several times and try. If don't work blue again.

Levent Suberk wrote:Perma Gun Blue in any gun store. Blue inside of cylinder several times and try. If don't work blue again.

well that is gonna be a problem
we dont have gun stores here
and nobody sells it here
and I cant find it on ebay

so bluing is not possible for me (holland btw)

found one store (forgot air rifels are legal here) that sells barrel bluing kits

https://www.db-schietsport.nl/nl/product/klever-snel-bruineermiddel-50ml/

its freaking expencive

would this work btw?

I didn't blue with that brand.

Perhaps it may not work, but trying will be good if the cylinder is really bad and non working condition. You must be sure the problem is cylinder.