New Acquisition..

Mauricio. You have done an excellent job of refurbishing that engine. Please share with us the method that you have used for re-blueing the cylinder.

Rod.

Excellent job on the cylinder redo for throttle ring and removal slots , that looks like a process i have not used and came out very Nice ! .... A project ? will bee interesting because the BB doesn't have a lot of power and knowing you fly RC only .

Oldenginerod wrote:Mauricio.  You have done an excellent job of refurbishing that engine.  Please share with us the method that you have used for re-blueing the cylinder.

Rod.

bluing
Items:
Stainless steel container.
Metal container (metal does not matter)
clean common water
Potassium nitrate
Caustic soda
medical alcohol
Heater
Tweezers
Wooden rod
Safety equipment:
Gloves and goggles
Procedure:
In the stainless steel container place:
6 parts of water
6 parts caustic soda
1 ½ part of potassium nitrate.
With a wooden rod and protecting your eyes with goggles, and your hands with gloves, stir the content until you get a good mix, (you will notice that the caustic soda and potassium nitrate remain at the bottom of the container.
Place the container in a heater and wait for the mixture to boil, stir the mixture in the meantime.
With the mixture boiling, place the piece to buff previously degreased with alcohol, with a holder (it can be a piece of wire).
While the piece is submerged in the mixture, at intervals, stir the mixture itself on the sides with the wooden stick.
Leave the piece for about 30 minutes in the boiling mixture.
Lift the wire or hanger that holds the piece to bluing with a pair of pliers and contemplate the colouring. If the color is not the desired one, submerge it again for another 30 minutes.
Remove the submerged part and remove the mixture from the heater.
Place common water in another metal container and place that container in the heater, place the piece with the hanger in common water and leave it there for about 20 minutes with boiling water.
Remove the piece with pliers and contemplate the coloring. The process should be finished.
If the color is still not as desired, repeat the entire procedure.
After the process, clean everything with common water.

Eric and Roberto, dear friends, I like the Cox single transfer engine because it has low consumption and the power is very good in relation to fuel consumption.
It has great advantages for motorsailers, minithermics and even some model trainer aircraft as well.
The video that I leave here, it is about my SCAMP plane, the same one, it has a Cox engine with a single transfer, it has a very even and very safe march, I am not saying it, but you can see the video, the confidence that He tells me that I fly over the lagoon a few meters in over the water and the engine is always safe in its operation.
I am simply very seduced by the simple, but quality, Cox Babe Bee motor with a single transfer meets that!
Here the video, I hope you like it:

Very nice flying of your Cox single cylinder bypass engine, Mauricio.

You are correct, I had similar experiences with my 1970's Golden Bee single bypass cylinder on my Q-Tee. Really didn't need Black Widow power. It had good, reasonable duration flights. Initially I flew the Q-Tee with single channel rudder only pulse and a throttle ring on the Bee, worked well. Later after assembling my Charlie's R/C Cannon 4-channel system with 2 mini servos, converted Q-Tee to rudder & elevator.

With the right setup and plane, the single bypass cylinder Cox is more than sufficient.

And, you are very brave to fly your plane so close over the water. I am not as bold. I'd be afraid to crash the plane into the water, and have to get a boat (un barco) to retrieve it.

Congratulations Mauricio! The new engine looks very nice! I enjoyed the video also. I always enjoy your videos!

Great work on the engine and the flying Mauricio. I greatly enjoyed the video. It really showed how a plane can fly / be flown very well with a lower power engine when the plane and engine are matched well and both in excellent condition and of course a pilot that knows how to fly the plane so well.

Perfect work Mauricio.

That is a different stroke for bluing and works well , I don't understand how the process can turn the bare metal to a blue/black ? There are some dangerous ingredients in the formula that you don't want to breath , But i am sure you already know this .... Very nice flight ( I remember see you build this now and that you had used the BB for power ). Thanks as always !

Mauricio,

I like the video! I wonder if the engine was actually a Bee, whose integral tank would probably run dry in a 6 minutes flight...so this was probably a COX 049 reedie, but with an external tank?

I also like the magic recipe and ingredients of  the bluing process... I am a bit lazy and prefer the simple gun-blue fluids, sold by gun shops, and apply the bluing fluid on the de-greased cylinder external surface with the help of a cotton ear bud.

The bluing fluid should possibly avoid contacting the cylinder internal surface. Even if the blackened spots on the cylinder inside wall will disappear after a few engine runs, the fluid itself is changing the metallurgy of the cylinder internal wall in a thin layer, that, being as accurately fit as it is, you want to avoid.

Esa experiencia compartió por Mauricio muestra que con el motor correcto, el avión volaría muy bueno.
That experience shared by Mauricio shows that with the right engine, the plane would fly very good.

The aircraft is lightweight and very well constructed.

balogh wrote:The bluing fluid should possibly avoid contacting the cylinder internal surface. Even if the blackened spots on the cylinder inside wall will disappear after a few engine runs, the fluid itself is changing the metallurgy of the cylinder internal wall in a thin layer, that, being as accurately fit as it is, you want to avoid.

András, does the bluing chemical treatment weaken the steel surfaces? If so, are we talking a few molecules thick, or, considerably more? Perhaps etches away enough to compromise longevity and fit?

George, yes, the bluing may make the top layer of the cylinder surface brittle and wear off..I am not sure how deep the material transformation is, but would think that with the small dimensions of these engines any unwanted material loss is better to be avoided to save compression..

Thanks for all the comments!!!
Now after my visit to the doctor I'm at work, yes! Well, you also have to work hahaha, not everything can be fun!!...
When I return, I will make more comments about the bluing!!!
Thank you!!!

Tan contrario, Mauricio, estoy ya en mi jubilación, ¡jajaja! To the contrary, I am already in my retirement!  

Which brings up an interesting question. An aluminium piston is available for Cox. 049.

In an ABC setup, once warmed up to operating temperature, I believe the thermal expansion of the brass sleeve (don't know the exact brass or aluminium alloys but following used as typical, Yellow Brass = 20.3 (10^-6/(m C))) is close enough to aluminium (T6061 = 23.4 (10^-6/(m C)).

But, there is a bit of difference when a steel sleeve (Wrought Carbon Steel = 14.0 (10^-6/(m C)) is used.

I ruined my aluminium piston in my 1971 Honda CB125S steel sleeve cylinder motor when I overheated the engine climbing a long incline hill.

Is there is a similar possibility to ruin a Cox engine using that aluminium piston in a reed valve steel cylinder? I suppose the good is that with a lighter piston would reduce vibration.

getback wrote:That is a different stroke for bluing and works well , I don't understand how the process can turn the bare metal to a blue/black ? There are some dangerous ingredients in the formula that you don't want to breath , But i am sure you already know this .... Very nice flight ( I remember see you build this now and that you had used the BB for power ).  Thanks as always !

Thanks Eric!...of course, I've been doing this for a few years. You must do the process outdoors...you don't want to end up becoming something strange hahaha

balogh wrote:Mauricio,

I like the video! I wonder if the engine was actually a Bee, whose integral tank would probably run dry in a 6 minutes flight...so this was probably a COX 049 reedie, but with an external tank?

I also like the magic recipe and ingredients of  the bluing process... I am a bit lazy and prefer the simple gun-blue fluids, sold by gun shops, and apply the bluing fluid on the de-greased cylinder external surface with the help of a cotton ear bud.

The bluing fluid should possibly avoid contacting the cylinder internal surface. Even if the blackened spots on the cylinder inside wall will disappear after a few engine runs, the fluid itself is changing the metallurgy of the cylinder internal wall in a thin layer, that, being as accurately fit as it is, you want to avoid.

Hello András, the engine is a Babe Bee .049 with a single transfer, from which I removed the original tank, I put a surestar plate and a fuel tank inside the fuselage.
If you read my comment on the video, what I want to highlight in my own comment is:
1) The reliable gear of the 1 transfer engine.
2) The more than enough power of a transfer engine to take the model airplane by the hairs.
3) The security at all times of operation of the engine of 1 transfer, to take the model very deep on the lagoon and not feel insecurity at any time.

Fuel duration is a separate issue, with the 1-transfer engine the fuel will last longer than if you use a more powerful 2-transfer engine. That, regardless of the tank that engine has.

About the way to strut I have to tell you the following:
The process generates a thickening of the surface, for this reason if you do not want to thicken the interior of the cylinder, placing a wooden stick as seen in the procedure, the cylinder will remain intact inside. Now in my experience with some old and heavily used cylinders you can put the cylinder in without the wooden stick inside, just a piece of wire to hold it, the bluing process will thicken the inside surface and then after the process of bluing, you must make a readjustment or seating of the cylinder and piston.
To do that, the technique I use is the same as the video I did where I start with a Norvel .061 engine, that is, you use a heat gun, and a starter, with the addition of mineral oil.
Through this procedure, I have recovered some engine by improving its compression. It is important for recovered cylinders that this process has been done to use castor oil, not synthetic, that helps a recovered cylinder even more.

GallopingGhostler wrote:Tan contrario, Mauricio, estoy ya en mi jubilación, ¡jajaja! To the contrary, I am already in my retirement!  

Which brings up an interesting question. An aluminium piston is available for Cox. 049.

Is there is a similar possibility to ruin a Cox engine using that aluminium piston in a reed valve steel cylinder? I suppose the good is that with a lighter piston would reduce vibration.

I am very glad that he is retired and that he can have fun...it's fair!

You can use the aluminum alloy piston in Cox's steel cylinder, but be sure to use a castor oil fuel, NOT SYNTHETIC. The castor oil will provide adequate lubrication and prolong the life of the piston.
Use a mix of:

standard
20% Castor
15% Nitro
65% Methanol

Competition
20% Castor
25% Nitro
55% Methanol

MauricioB wrote:You can use the aluminum alloy piston in Cox's steel cylinder, but be sure to use a castor oil fuel, NOT SYNTHETIC. The castor oil will provide adequate lubrication and prolong the life of the piston.

Use a mix of:

Standard
20% Castor
15% Nitro
65% Methanol

Competition
20% Castor
25% Nitro
55% Methanol

Me parece una buena idea.

Por supuesto con una excepción, tengo el aceite de ricino 50 por ciento porque mi combustible tenga algunos aceite sintético. La tienda más cercano (155 km de distancia) no tiene combustible con 100 por ciento ricino lamentablemente.

Of course with one exception, about my fuel, it has castor oil 50 percent because my fuel has some synthetic oil. The nearest store (155 km away) has no fuel with 100 percent castor unfortunately.