Removing QRC muffler

By all means use a Cox wrench (or possibly two in combination) to remove the cylinder, Do NOT use pliers or you'll surely damage the cooling fins on the cylinder and possibly distort it as well as the piston.

If you are unfamilar with Cox wrenches check them on the vendor sites here on the forum.

That cylinder might not have a milled top to put a Cox wrench on to remove the cylinder and because the muffler is still on it can't be removed using the exhaust ports. Removing the cylinder can be done by heating up the cylinder in front of a blow dryer until it's cookin. You can also boil the engine in water with a few drops of automatic dishwasher detergent added. In either case once the engine is good and hot use a cut down piece of a old leather belt wrapped around the cylinder and grab it with a pair of vise grips and twist off. I have heard of others that use a piece of strap lead to do the same thing.
Joe

Yes, as many have mentioned already, it would be advisable to use Cox designed wrenches. We have them for sale here if you do not have any:

http://www.exmodelengines.com/product.php?productid=17631&cat=258&page=1

As Joe, mentioned, if there is not the milled top fin on the cylinder, please use that process to remove the cylinder. If all else fails, we have a rebuild service

http://www.exmodelengines.com/product.php?productid=17825&cat=275&page=1

Regards, Matt

Seems to me the process of removing a "frozen" cylinder has been covered here MANY times before. In summary:

-Soak the crancase/cylinder in a solvent like Hoppe's #9 gun solvent for serveral days to let it pentrate throughly.

- Apply a SMALL amount of heat to the crankcase where the cylinder joins in. (personally I use as small butane torch.)

- Use the approriate sized Cox wrenches (in tandem) to work the cylinder back and forth until it loosens. (Using common pilers does considerable amout damge to cooling fins).

- If this fails repeat the process and try again.

The site could use a tricks and tips section.

Monocote heat gun is very helpful with our little Jems. Use common sence and leave prop on. I use old cotton sock to handle engine. I have never melted any plastic on engine ..ever. Use proper Cox wrench that is not all bent. Leather wrap around cylinder also works. Don't take apart cold as you will pay the Piper. Denatured alcohol works better than regulat alky. Crock pot will destoy plastic and anadizing.

jsesere wrote:The site could use a tricks and tips section.

Of course the Cox International "Trouble Shooting "guides are helpful aready. Why they aren't used more often bafles me.

Agree Joe. Gets tiresome repeating same info. over and over.

Could also use a parts vendor thread but my my idea fell flat when I posted it recently.

Oh well...............

Just for fun there is a product called Mother's mag wheel polish that works very well. Makes thos parts shine like a new dime. Detailing made easy. Cuts that old patina down in no time. B/W/G/Bee/Venom/TD .049/.051 uses a 5/40 bolt. Using allen bolt is much better than stock. 5/40X 1" Just some helpful info.
Cheers,Dan

Dan, do you use it to clean/polish Bee tanks and back plates? I use Wrights copper cream for back plates and wet dry P120 metal sandpaper on the tanks after chucking them in a drill.

Welcome in Sakchi, drop a quick few words onto the introduction area of the forum and introduce yourself.

Following the tips provided already and a bit of heat from your heat gun should get the cylinder spinning off again.

Thank you all for your help. I have tried removing the cylinder with the Cox tool, but to no avail. I removed the plastic tank, the glow head and heated the cylinder with a Monocote gun but it still didn't budge(possibly because the muffler heats up before the area where the cylinder screws into the crankcase). As I type this, the engine is in an ultrasonic bath. If that doesn't work, then I will try the gun solvent method( will soaking in WD-40 work the same?). I'll keep everyone updated.
Min

WD-40 might work if you have some available. Otherwise try Hoppe's #9 gun cleaning solvent. Be sure to let them soak the cylinder/crankcase for several days. They are stuck in place with old caster oil residue. Be patient.

Remember WD-40 and gun solvent ARE flammable.

Check the Trouble Shooting Guides @ www.CoxInternational.com to learn about useing Cox wrenches properly. Scroll down the home page to find them.

The ultrasonic bath did not free up the cylinder but certainly cleaned up the engine! I guess the next thing to try would be soaking it in Hoppe gun solvent (if I can find some here) and the butane "treatment"
SuperDave, I did check the troubleshooting page prior to posting here but couldn't find anything specific to the QRC and hence the question. Thanks again to you, Dan, Joe and Matt for being so patient and helpful.
Min

Amazon is finally selling Hope's #9 in quarts.
Reasonably priced. Much better deal than the little 5oz bottles.
http://www.amazon.com/Hoppes-No-Solvent-Quart-Bottle/dp/B00109AAN2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1332382737&sr=8-1
Bob

dckrsn wrote:Amazon is finally selling Hope's #9 in quarts.
Reasonably priced. Much better deal than the little 5oz bottles.
http://www.amazon.com/Hoppes-No-Solvent-Quart-Bottle/dp/B00109AAN2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1332382737&sr=8-1
Bob

The local Wal Mart had the quarts on sale right before hunting season for $9. Couldn't pass that up. Usually $12.95 and have seen them as high as $20 for the quart.

dankar04 wrote:Monocote heat gun is very helpful with our little Jems. Use common sence and leave prop on. I use old cotton sock to handle engine. I have never melted any plastic on engine ..ever. Use proper Cox wrench that is not all bent. Leather wrap around cylinder also works. Don't take apart cold as you will pay the Piper. Denatured alcohol works better than regulat alky. Crock pot will destoy plastic and anadizing.

I second this. Once I started using my heat gun I haven't had to soak a single engine. I hear hair driers are effective too.

cribbs74 wrote:

dankar04 wrote:Monocote heat gun is very helpful with our little Jems. Use common sence and leave prop on. I use old cotton sock to handle engine. I have never melted any plastic on engine ..ever. Use proper Cox wrench that is not all bent. Leather wrap around cylinder also works. Don't take apart cold as you will pay the Piper. Denatured alcohol works better than regulat alky. Crock pot will destoy plastic and anadizing.

I second this. Once I started using my heat gun I haven't had to soak a single engine. I hear hair driers are effective too.

Had one of these handed to me still NIP from a buddy who I helped move. Came with the 5/16 reduction nozzle that snaps on the end. The nozzle makes it very nice to direct the heat where you want it,, .
http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-professional-27801-1500-watt-corded-heavy-duty-heat-gun/p-00927801000P

Heat almost always gets these gummed up motors loose. Get the thing ouchie hot and they slowly spin free as the goo softens. If there is a muffler in the way, heat the whole thing up hot. Use good judgement of course,,dont heat until the plastic tee dee induction piece is dripping off.

Sakchi wrote:........ the glow head and heated the cylinder with a Monocote gun but it still didn't budge(possibly because the muffler heats up before the area where the cylinder screws into the crankcase). ..............

Although heating the cylinder can be effective, you really want to heat the case where the cylinder screws in --- this will soften the congealed castor oil and help expand the case in the area of the joint.

Sakchi wrote:The ultrasonic bath did not free up the cylinder but certainly cleaned up the engine! I guess the next thing to try would be soaking it in Hoppe gun solvent (if I can find some here) and the butane "treatment"
SuperDave, I did check the troubleshooting page prior to posting here but couldn't find anything specific to the QRC and hence the question. Thanks again to you, Dan, Joe and Matt for being so patient and helpful.
Min

Sakchi:

The problem of cylinder removal is not unique to the QRC but plauges old Cox engines generally. (Gummed castor oil is the likely culprit holding the cylinder) What works on one is likely to work on them all.

Gun shops are the best source of Hoppe's #9 cleaning sovent or you can find it on-line too.

I have acquired an old QRC 049.  How much does the muffler reduce power over a standard Babe Bee?  Conversely would removing the muffler bring up the power output?  The muffler fitted is the type with a side spout and a rectangular opening to the rear.  Thanks.

Hi cggs, welcome to the forum.
Removing the muffler from a QRC won't yield much, mainly
because the engine was designed for use with a muffler. It
features a cylinder which has no "sub port induction" If you enter that
phrase into the search feature, there are several threads that debate,
explain and question how it works.
Bob

CGGS
FIRST welcome to CEF

too hop up for more power you can mix and match many parts on any Cox engine

Bernie in Canada owns CoxInternational and is a good guy:
https://coxengines.ca/cox-.049-tee-dee-cylinder-and-piston.html

Matt owns ExModelEngins in te USA AND also a good guy
http://www.exmodelengines.com/product.php?productid=17674&cat=267&page=1