How do I get the brown off my piston top?

The longer this thread runs the more I'm laughing!

"Oh my Gawd Mabel! I've got BROWN on my piston tops!"

This thread has to be a record??

Mr G

Not a record by a long shot! Stick around and watch.

You will never beat my Go Kart thread!!

http://coxengineforum.forumakers.com/t2276-3-seater-go-cart?highlight=go+cart

MFD:

Let's call on a moderator to make the determination of the longest thread ever.

SuperDave wrote:MFD:

Let's call on a moderator to make the determination of the longest thread ever.

I think it may be the "chatbox check in" thread.

Unfortunately we can't sort the stacks of threads by replies like you can in a vBulletin forum. Maybe there's another way. I'm curious now. My mouse racer thread went the longest of mine.

RknRusty wrote:Unfortunately we can't sort the stacks of threads by replies like you can in a vBulletin forum. Maybe there's another way. I'm curious now. My mouse racer thread went the longest of mine.

Just a curiosity Rusty nothing more. Long threads often drift "off-topic" so it would be hard to determine the longest.

SuperDave wrote:

RknRusty wrote:Unfortunately we can't sort the stacks of threads by replies like you can in a vBulletin forum. Maybe there's another way. I'm curious now. My mouse racer thread went the longest of mine.

Just a curiosity Rusty nothing more. Long threads often drift "off-topic" so it would be hard to determine the longest.

Hmmm, not sure if I can see what the longest thread is. I could look for a setting...

Surfer_kris wrote:Just leave it like it is, the build up usually tends to just be a thin layer anyway. If you use any polishing compound you'll have to wash everything very carefully (preferably using an ultrasonic bath) or you risk getting polishing particles elsewhere too.

You are probably right about not making much difference, I clean the tops of mine for my own preference

Good point about thorough cleaning, I don't go as far as ultrasonic but my piston assemblies do get a soap and water bath followed by a good rinse. After that they get oiled including the ball socket then re-installed.

Yes now cribbs, about the ball socket. I took apart one of my .020 pee wee`s the other day and
noticed that the ball socket had a reddish colored lube or greese around it. I normally just lightly oil the
internal engine parts with a 3-in-one multi-purpose oil after I have run or cleaned the engine before storing away.
Do I need to use grease or lube on the ball socket piston fit and other areas inside the engine?

Mr G

If it's going to sit for a long time, some after run oil in the ball socket is a good idea. 3-in1 is fine. Try not to get too much in the cylinder where it can coat the glowplug, just wet the piston sides through the port.

Any time I crank one that hasn't run for a while (a week or so), I squirt a drop of fuel into the piston skirt and flip it around a few times. That will wash out your 3-in-1 and wet it with castor. Same with the crank tube. Squeeze a little fuel between the drive plate and the nose and work it down in there to do the same for the crankshaft.

Never use grease, it will get in the way of the oil.

Thanks Rusty! that`s exactly what I have been doing up to now!

Mr G

I use Inox (http://www.inox-mx3.com/product_detail.php?productID=10) for nearly everything that needs lubing or corrosion protection now. Its product sheet states, amongst a myriad of other uses, that it's ideal as an after-run oil in model engines. It's the only lube I use anywhere in my models and my guns, and a million and one other places. I keep it out of the bedroom though . A really magic solution .

Hi,

I don`t think I can buy "inox" in Australia?..Yes you can I sorry!

Mr G

I've found 3M "scotchbrite" to work really well when combined with a solvent such as dope or lacquer thinner. It comes in different grades. I use reddish coloured medium. Grey is finer. Brown is too coarse.
Cut an aprox. 1" X 2" square & roll up. After your done the piston, give the cylinder a scrub while your at it. Rinse out parts well after cleaning. Good Luck!
Paul

coxxoc wrote: Hi lads,

Take a close look at the top of this cox .051 Tee Dee`s piston and you`ll see a brown color.
Do I need to remove this or shouldn`t I worry about it?..What solution is best to clean it if need be?
This is also the engine I was talking about last time with a throttle ring and a slight burr
near the port area.

Cheers!
Mr G

coxxoc wrote:Hi,
I don`t think I can buy "inox" in Australia?

Have a look at where I live - it's right there under my name and (lack of) avatar.
Have a look at the front page of their web site.
http://www.inox-mx3.com/inox.htm

Sorry, what was that again about where you can't buy Inox? Any hardware or marine store in Oz will sell it to you.

Thanks Paul!

Hey, are you THE Paul Gibeault the AMA Class One Mouse Race Engine builder?
If you are, I`ve read your 2011: Building an AMA Class One Mouse Race Engine from parts pdf.
It was amazing!!

Mr G

coxxoc:

Yes, that is the real Paul Gibeault who is a member and contributor to our forum.

Wow!..that`s amazing!

Thanks Dave!

Mr G

Yes I am him, (the guy on the right in the photo). I'm here (once in awhile) to help out (technically) where I can...
My 'avatar' is my name as I don't wish to be anonymous...
I'm glad to hear you found my article useful, it was based on A LOT of experience.
I wish you the best of luck!
Cheers, Paul

Hey, are you THE Paul Gibeault the AMA Class One Mouse Race Engine builder?
If you are, I`ve read your 2011: Building an AMA Class One Mouse Race Engine from parts pdf.
It was amazing!!

Thankyou Paul!

Did Cox ever bring out a complete engine repair book which covered most engines?
I just can`t seemed to find one anywhere online.
Also, I would love to know how you check the play in ball socket/piston fit?..and how would one check
dimensional tolerences?.. eg piston to cylinder fit ect...there wouldn`t be a feeler gauge small enough would there?
I have read when Leroy Cox was manufacturing these engines, the machines he used were so precise in measuring
super micro engine tolerences. I believe if one has to rebuild an engine, it must be perfect in all areas to acheive the
best performance possible.

All the best with your future projects

Mr G

Mr. G:

Although not by Cox per se this by Bernie represents an excellent guide to Cox repairs and other items which has been added since the departure of Cox:

http://coxengines.ca/files/CMG.pdf