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Post  happydad Sun Nov 11, 2012 9:46 pm

I have tried everything to remove the back cover on a TD .051 I am working on without success. Soaking, heat, heat and gentle twisting pressure. Tape on the tool to avoid damage of the slots in the back cover.
Has anyone out there been able to remove a stuborn TD back cover AFTER trying all the above?
any help will be appreciated.

edited 11-14-12 9:02 p.m. PST - i finally removed the stuborn backplate of the TD .051 using a combination of all the mentioned advice. the quick stroke with a ballpeen hammer and a metal tool on the filed square corners finally worked. i realized that there were already someone elses plier marks on the backplate and a few more scratches wouldn't matter.
thanks again for all the advice.

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Last edited by happydad on Wed Nov 14, 2012 11:07 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : FINISHED removing stubborn TD backplate.)
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Post  RknRusty Sun Nov 11, 2012 10:03 pm

I usually clamp my Cox wrench in the vice so just the long edge is sticking out of the top. Wrap the engine in a rag so I can get a good grip, stick the slots on the edge of the wrench, press down on it with all of my weight(which ain't much) and turn the engine. If the slots are rounded out, I square them up with a file first. Show that sucker who's boss.

Or you could slot a couple of wood blocks so you can secure the engine in the vice, put the blade of a decent sized screwdriver in one of the slots and whack it with a hammer.

I'm a pretty experienced mechanic so I have a feel for things, so if you don't feel confident about how to secure it, how hard to whack it, what size hammer, screwdriver, etc., don't try too hard with that method. Those steps may sound excessive, but I don't mar parts. I do show them who's in charge in my shop.

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Post  Cribbs74 Sun Nov 11, 2012 10:13 pm

Good advice from Rusty, if you have the circular TD wrench that is the one I would use.

How much heat have you used? I have gone as far as using a propane torch on the real stubborn ones. Just don't hold the flame on the case too long. Normally a heat gun does the job for me though.

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Post  RknRusty Sun Nov 11, 2012 11:00 pm

I should get a Tee Dee .049 wrench. I have an .09 wrench.

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Post  happydad Sun Nov 11, 2012 11:05 pm

cribbs74 wrote:Good advice from Rusty, if you have the circular TD wrench that is the one I would use.

How much heat have you used? I have gone as far as using a propane torch on the real stubborn ones. Just don't hold the flame on the case too long. Normally a heat gun does the job for me though.

Ron

thanks Rusty and Ron for the advice. I have tried heat, but not with a torch. i used a heat gun and got closer and closer without results. I will try the method with vice and brut weight tomorrow. I had used a vice and the edge of the Cox tool with a rag wrapped around it. and if all else fails i'll contact Rusty again. happydad Small Cox Logo

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Post  SuperDave Mon Nov 12, 2012 8:23 am

HD:

I would but add that my Weller Portsol butane "mini torch" tip, lightly applied, has those stuck backplates coming off nicely with the flat side of a Cox wrench.

A covering heat gun most likely won't apply enough heat on really stubborn backplates in my experience.


Last edited by SuperDave on Mon Nov 12, 2012 1:31 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Post  Kim Mon Nov 12, 2012 8:47 am

RknRusty wrote:I usually clamp my Cox wrench in the vice so just the long edge is sticking out of the top. Wrap the engine in a rag so I can get a good grip, stick the slots on the edge of the wrench, press down on it with all of my weight(which ain't much) and turn the engine. If the slots are rounded out, I square them up with a file first. Show that sucker who's boss.

Or you could slot a couple of wood blocks so you can secure the engine in the vice, put the blade of a decent sized screwdriver in one of the slots and whack it with a hammer.

I'm a pretty experienced mechanic so I have a feel for things, so if you don't feel confident about how to secure it, how hard to whack it, what size hammer, screwdriver, etc., don't try too hard with that method. Those steps may sound excessive, but I don't mar parts. I do show them who's in charge in my shop.

If you've got a flat file that matches the slots, you might try clamping IT in the vise, as it will be a little harder than the metal in the wrench and it's surface has "tread" , grip the engine with a cloth after heating, and push it onto the file while torquing it.
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Post  RknRusty Mon Nov 12, 2012 10:37 am

Kim wrote:If you've got a flat file that matches the slots, you might try clamping IT in the vise, as it will be a little harder than the metal in the wrench and it's surface has "tread" , grip the engine with a cloth after heating, and push it onto the file while torquing it.
Now that's a rocking good idea. You could post that in the "Best building tip I ever got" over at RCG.

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Post  Kim Mon Nov 12, 2012 10:49 am

Thanks Rusty,

I got to try to get over to that site more often...lots of good stuff there. With my dial-up service, anything with much of a graphic tends to choke it down while loading!
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Post  SuperDave Mon Nov 12, 2012 12:37 pm

[quote="RknRusty"]
Kim wrote:If you've got a flat file that matches the slots, you might try clamping IT in the vise, as it will be a little harder than the metal in the wrench and it's surface has "tread" , grip the engine with a cloth after heating, and push it onto the file while torquing it.

The file that fits into the backplate slot best is a 6 inch "mill bastard" (sic).

I have nice collection of jeweler's files on hand. Very useful for lots of things. Very Happy
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Post  happydad Mon Nov 12, 2012 5:27 pm

Kim wrote:
RknRusty wrote:I usually clamp my Cox wrench in the vice so just the long edge is sticking out of the top. Wrap the engine in a rag so I can get a good grip, stick the slots on the edge of the wrench, press down on it with all of my weight(which ain't much) and turn the engine. If the slots are rounded out, I square them up with a file first. Show that sucker who's boss.

Or you could slot a couple of wood blocks so you can secure the engine in the vice, put the blade of a decent sized screwdriver in one of the slots and whack it with a hammer.

I'm a pretty experienced mechanic so I have a feel for things, so if you don't feel confident about how to secure it, how hard to whack it, what size hammer, screwdriver, etc., don't try too hard with that method. Those steps may sound excessive, but I don't mar parts. I do show them who's in charge in my shop.

If you've got a flat file that matches the slots, you might try clamping IT in the vise, as it will be a little harder than the metal in the wrench and it's surface has "tread" , grip the engine with a cloth after heating, and push it onto the file while torquing it.

the problem with files is they are very brittle and if they break they can shatter and do a lot of collateral damage. happydad Small Cox Logo
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Post  RknRusty Mon Nov 12, 2012 6:14 pm

If 90% of the file is trapped in the vice and you're only using the long edge, I think it's pretty safe. Wear glasses.

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Post  jsesere Mon Nov 12, 2012 11:47 pm

Boil the engine in water on the stove for 1/2 hour.
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Post  SuperDave Tue Nov 13, 2012 9:09 am

If it's any consolation NEW TD .049-.051 backplates are available from EX Model engines for about $5. Not sure about Cox International.
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Post  andrew Tue Nov 13, 2012 10:48 am

SuperDave wrote:If it's any consolation NEW TD .049-.051 backplates are available from EX Model engines for about $5. Not sure about Cox International.

He did, but I think he's out of stock now.
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Post  SuperDave Tue Nov 13, 2012 10:59 am

This subject of "frozen" engine parts as been SO overdiscussed that I'm going to "log off" for spell.

See ya!
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Post  Cribbs74 Tue Nov 13, 2012 1:06 pm

Familiar things do come up repeatedly Dave, I agree. Sometimes things that are "old hat" to some are "new hat" to others. No need to sign off as your help and guidance are appreciated and needed.

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Post  RknRusty Tue Nov 13, 2012 2:15 pm

cribbs74 wrote:...No need to sign off as your help and guidance are appreciated and needed...
Yeah, what would we do without our forum dad. Smoking

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Post  EXModelEngines Tue Nov 13, 2012 2:31 pm

andrew wrote:
SuperDave wrote:If it's any consolation NEW TD .049-.051 backplates are available from EX Model engines for about $5. Not sure about Cox International.

He did, but I think he's out of stock now.

Yes, we are out of them. I have them on the "to do" list but they probably will not be completed until early next year.

I plan to modify the wrench slots and square them off. Cox had a width of 3/32" for the width of the slot which was fine, but the radius at the bottom makes it difficult to remove covers that were really stuck without ruining the backplate. It will most likely be 3/32" width x 0.055" deep.

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Post  Cribbs74 Tue Nov 13, 2012 3:27 pm

Ever consider turning the backplate into a hex drive? That way you can use an allen key.


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Post  andrew Tue Nov 13, 2012 6:05 pm

EXModelEngines wrote:
......................I plan to modify the wrench slots and square them off.
Matt

Great idea!!!

The radius at the bottom of the slot has always been problematic. Under pressure, the wrench tends to ride up and out of the slot, either rounding off the top or popping out entirely. For backplates that are "boogered" up, I've used a flat file to square off the radius and cut the slot wide enough to remove any rounding that may have occurred.

Using a file in a vice is an excellent way to apply decent pressure. It gives you a chance to really push down and use the full depth of the slots, plus using two hands on the engine alone, I can get more "torque" to the backplate.
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Post  RknRusty Tue Nov 13, 2012 8:37 pm

Take the damn thing off with pliers. Get a new one if you're into aesthetics.

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Post  happydad Tue Nov 13, 2012 10:26 pm

RknRusty wrote:Take the damn thing off with pliers. Get a new one if you're into aesthetics.

being retired has lots of advantages: more time, and less responsibilities. and one big disadvantage: no income. that is why i buy, rebuild and resell on ebay. to have a little disposable income. very little lately. happydad Small Cox Logo

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Post  Cribbs74 Tue Nov 13, 2012 10:35 pm

Understood..... Did you get it off yet?
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Post  happydad Tue Nov 13, 2012 10:44 pm

cribbs74 wrote:Understood..... Did you get it off yet?

haven't had a chance yet. my wife has not been sustitute teaching and we babysat the grandsons yesterday. maybe tomorrow. i'm slow, but careful.
thanks to all for all the advice. happydad Small Cox Logo

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