1/2a leadouts

This is what I use. 7 strand steel coated with black nylon. I use 20# test(or 25#, I forget) on the 1/2A planes, and the picture I had for posting is of the 45# variety. Just make sure your leadout guides are flared and smooth so they don't bind on the plastic. So far I've never had that problem. The same store that sells this also has the crimp tubes made for it. Just make sure you get a large enough tube for the wire to pass through 3 times as per AMA regs.

The use of .018 stranded cable works well. You could certainly use as small as .012. I purchase bulk reels and have plenty of excess. In addition, I scramble a set of lines a contest and this allows enough leadout material for years. In certain situations, I choose to use solids. Solids kink, but sometimes are more suitable for certain applications. I typically use .031 wire or smaller. Ken

Actually, now that I've replaced a set of .015" flying lines, and committed half a spool of old .018" to stooge duty, I have a lifetime supply of that stuff too.

Anybody know where to find thimbles in bulk? I could use a bunch of 1/2A and .19-35 sized ones.

Ron

Ron, MBS model supply. http://mbsmodelsupply.com/ . Click on ordering and go to control wire and accessories. You can send Melvin an e-mail explaining what your doing if you don't understand his product chart. He's quick to respond and a joy to have someone offer the eyelets and crimp tubes in bulk. ken

Thanks Ken,

Cool, I bookmarked the site.

Brodak has thimbles too.

I have fishing line on several flat wing airplanes with open bell cranks. The spectra fishing line I tie a thimble into making a very large loop for the doubled 5-turn uni knot. This loop I size so I can then feed it through (in) the lead out eye, through the bell crank, BACK through (out) the lead-out eye, and tuck the eye through the loop. When the eye is pulled the loop goes back through (in) the lead-out and hitches onto the bell crank nice. The line doesn't slide so it won't saw through plastic bell cranks.

I have had no desire to do this on a closed wing, so I would say I am still evaluating the system.

Phil

Thanks guys. Man I've been having leadout/line problems lately. A spiderwire leadout pulled out of the Satan yesterday as I tried to pull it from the stooge. Luckily it happened when I first pulled so the plane stayed in the stooge. Then my 10lb spiderwire lines I was flying the new staggerwing with broke at the set screw on the handle. Bad times. It's an epoxy bomb now. Already planning version 3.0. Will Post video later.

Jim

JP,

You have to be kidding me right? Are you using a Palomar knot?

That Staggerwing was gorgeous, say it ain't so. I always use steel cables for leadouts and have never had a problem with those.

Ron

Jim, this is hard to swallow. Didn't this just happen the other day or something similar? Have you considered using braided .012 stainless? This would certainly help on your handle end, something needs to be done on the plane end. That's a shame and really hate to see that. I hope it's repairable. Ken

cribbs74 wrote:JP,

You have to be kidding me right? Are you using a Palomar knot?

That Staggerwing was gorgeous, say it ain't so. I always use steel cables for leadouts and have never had a problem with those.

Ron

Leadouts were fine on the staggerwing, the line broke at the handle. The set screw chewed it. I'm determined to make a successful reed powered staggerwing. Already have ideas to increase performance and lower weight on the next one. Probably won't be knocking that one out in a one day marathon build though!

Jim

I use 65# for the loop through my handle and for my lead outs. Overkill...probably.

I had the 10# break at the screw when a plane came inside then went out, so I picked up the 65# The lines were undamaged, just the loop through the handle.

Phil

Jim,

Sorry, I was talking more to the Satan. I wonder if you got a bad batch of line? Even chewed up it's still pretty strong. Have you figured what was causing the handle to chew the line?

I am still reeling. That was such a beautiful plane. So sorry to hear it went south again.

Ron

Ken Cook wrote: Jim, this is hard to swallow. Didn't this just happen the other day or something similar? Have you considered using braided .012 stainless? This would certainly help on your handle end, something needs to be done on the plane end. That's a shame and really hate to see that. I hope it's repairable. Ken

It's repaired she ain't as pretty as she was. I was concerned about the strength of my scratchbuilt wing but the upper and lower wing stayed intact with the struts, only a hairline fracture in the centre of the top wing. The fuselage broke away in two pieces, fore and aft at the bellcrank cutout. The next one will be superior and will feature braided steel leadouts flown on 30lb lines.

Jim

cribbs74 wrote:Jim,

Sorry, I was talking more to the Satan. I wonder if you got a bad batch of line? Even chewed up it's still pretty strong. Have you figured what was causing the handle to chew the line?

I am still reeling. That was such a beautiful plane. So sorry to hear it went south again.

Ron

Used a surgeons knot, held for a good eight months. From here on out everything gets braided steel.

I use the 30# Spiderwire on my 1/2As. I know everyone uses lighter stuff, but my 30# is still lighter and thinner than dacron. Been using the same 35' handle for a year and half now. That's probably pushing it, but, just sayin'...

This is what I came up with.  30# braided flyline backing.

The outboard end gets a surgeon's loop.  The bellcrank connection is easier explained with pictures:




That is the shank of a large fishook with a Z bend added.  The fishooks I buy are tempered, so I have to anneal them or they break when doing the Z bend.  The knot is a Snell,  the preferred knot for attaching fishing line to the eye of a fishook.  I pull the knots tight wet, trim the line, and coat with clear dope when dry.

I do it this way because steel on nylon makes a good bearing, and I worry about braided steel eating through the nylon bellcrank, or the bellcrank eating through synthetic line.

I have thought about quinching and tempering the fishooks after doing the Z-bend, but honestly I think the nylon bellcrank will give before the annealed wire straightens out.

Note the dings in the fusalage, where I left the Z bends too long. Trimmed as shown, they no longer hit the fuse.

kevbo wrote:This is what I came up with.  30# braided flyline backing.

The outboard end gets a surgeon's loop.  The bellcrank connection is easier explained with pictures:




That is the shank of a large fishook with a Z bend added.  The fishooks I buy are tempered, so I have to anneal them or they break when doing the Z bend.  The knot is a Snell,  the preferred knot for attaching fishing line to the eye of a fishook.  I pull the knots tight wet, trim the line, and coat with clear dope when dry.

I do it this way because steel on nylon makes a good bearing, and I worry about braided steel eating through the nylon bellcrank, or the bellcrank eating through synthetic line.

I have thought about quinching and tempering the fishooks after doing the Z-bend, but honestly I think the nylon bellcrank will give before the annealed wire straightens out.

Note the dings in the fusalage, where I left the Z bends too long.  Trimmed as shown, they no longer hit the fuse.

Interesting. I rather like the idea.
Phil

It is surely something I have never seen before. I would be real worried about those z bends slipping out of the bellcrank. I have had a z bend come out of a bellcrank on a control rod after a handling accident (slammed the elevator into the headliner of a van)

I suppose if it's worked for you then it's durable enough. For me I just spend the $2 for a 1/2A leadout kit and never worry about it.

Not knocking the idea mind you, it's very creative!

Ron

This might sound strange but, high E or B guitar strings work great for 1/2a and smaller lead outs. Being a guitar player, I tend to save used strings for lead out wire. I twist the ends, wrap with thread and then saturate with thin ca. I've used them for years and never had one fail. I've also used braided steel fishing line in the same fashion with great success.

Shawn