Skyray 35 Build - Faux Streak look

I would say the single most effective option for this wing is to replace the trailing edge with solid stock. Aileron stock could be ripped down to the 1 1/4" width allowing for a much strong trailing edge. A dado could be cut for the ribs using a thin plywood blade on a table saw.  If seen many Skyray's where the sheeted trailing edge is most problematic. It has a tendency to droop as it leaves the fuse. This is especially true if one of the pieces is considerably harder than the other. A old free flight trick is to cantilever the wood off the end of the table side by side and take note to see how much they droop comparing both pieces side by side. I do this for full body fuselages. The 1/8" sides can do the same to the fuse. The stronger piece can overpower the lighter weaker piece and dial a bow directly into your fuse. The trailing edge though in my opinion will work fine assuming you get it built straight and covered properly. If you shrink one side more than the other, it will twist the wing at the trailing edge. Having a inverter for your car and a Monokote iron at the field is probably the best thing I ever owned.

I've built many wings that came off the table with a serious curve dialed into them. I've placed it back on the table and used rubber band clamps to hold it down. I take blocks of wood and firmly support the wing in the needed areas and bow it the opposite direction and lay weights on the wing. I have a very fine atomizer which I can spray water from which I use to shrink tissue with. I then dampen the wing and let it sit for a day. I've had good results using this method and have repaired badly warped wings doing so.

I don't know if these are available in your part http://volareproducts.com/BUY/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=24 , by a company called Rocket City made these small circular plastic clamps that slide onto T-pins. They work fabulous. No need to stick through the wood just into the table. These go off to the side of the work and these slide down the pin onto the work. They require a lot of force to get them to slide which is a good thing with the exception when you slide them to prepare them to the work. These don't slide on the t-pin easily at first and when you slide them in your hand I always end up putting them through my fingers. Ken