Norvel ame 10

Is the piston frozen in the cylinder or does it move freely? If it's frozen you will need to address that first.

As Bandit said it should just lift out. If you decide to use heat just heat the case and not the cylinder.

Ron

I have done this about a dozen times and never had one that wouldn't come out in the end. Make sure the piston is at BDC and heat up only the case as Ron said. Dispense a few drops of fuel or alcohol over the fins to cool the liner down and twist back and forth until it loosens up. You can soak it in solvent to loosen up whatever has it glued. If you still can't get it to budge try the Cox method - grip the fins in a vice sandwiched between two strips of soft pine and rotate the case until free.

microflitedude wrote:.....Make sure the piston is at BDC and heat up only the case as Ron said......

Be absolutely sure the piston is at BDC.  If it is at the top and locked, you can use a wooden dowel to free it by tapping lightly on the piston top.  Heating the cylinder will also help if it's stuck.  Do not twist the cylinder with the piston jammed -- you could snap or twist the rod.

If the piston moves freely, a little heat on the case may help. There is a cylinder/case gasket that may be destroyed on pulling the cylinder (twisting is also likely to tear it). These gaskets are narrow and fairly complex in shape, so losing one can be problematic.

When re-assembling, the piston skirt is notched on one side -- this notch faces backward and is there so the skirt will clear the backplate.

Also one little tip put an indexing mark on the case and cylinder so yo can quickly find the proper position of the cylinder when you reassemble it this is in order to keep the ports properly aligned. Also if you can find them, get yourself some socket head screws for the jug that are a little longer than stock the longer length will slightly protrude from the bottom so if you manage to snap one off you can use a small set of needle nose pliers to get them out also they look better

Sorry to ask this but is the term cylinder "jug" an Americanism. I am familiar with cylinder, barrel and liner but not jug.

ian1954 wrote:Sorry to ask this but is the term cylinder "jug" an Americanism. I am familiar with cylinder, barrel and liner but not jug.

Ah, the flexibility of American slang. Ian, jugs apply both to engines and women (each a cylindrical objects).

I thought it was biker slang till I saw pilots use it too,
interesting article about airplane jugs

http://www.avweb.com/news/maint/182902-1.html?redirected=1

Jug is related to the way real aviation air cooled radial engines are/were made. AFAIK, each cylinder is one piece with integral head. This prevents it from blowing the "head gasket", as there is none. Thus, mechanics would coin it in slang, (perhaps Yank Cockney? LOL, oops, we don't rhyme ) and call it a "jug".

Anyways, so as I heard.

My Enya .09-III TV, an E-Bay buy had a stuck cylinder liner in the aluminum crankcase casting. I stuck it in boiling water for several minutes. That freed up the congealed Castor oil and it slid out readily with very little force.

Yes Ian as others have said the jug is slang for the cylinder. Usually it's used when taking about detachable cylinders ie: volkswagon beetles, harley's, porsche etc. even airplane (aeroplane) engines like George mentioned.

Anymore "jug" can refer to any cylinder.

Yes American slang from the 1960 era made earlier I picked it up from dirt bikers I rode with as a kid , but I believe we all know JUGS come it all full bore sizes  Being we made it through that I did get the sleeved jug off  after burning my fingers alittle with the hair drier  Ever thing looks good shows very little marking on the crank , I think I willtake the screen off the carb and see what s in there . Putter back and try the run again try to the rpms up . Later for now , Eric

Looks like the barrel is going past wide open dirty crud also      Parts

A jug is also a popular container for home-made alcohol. :-)

George

gcb wrote:A jug is also a popular container for home-made alcohol. :-)

George

Which led to the creation of the "jug" band!!!

Back to the engine.  Remove the screw from the back side of the carb body.  When taking it out, the head will seem to wobble -- that's normal since it is used as an eccentric to set the idle or how far the throttle barrel will rotate.  There's a spring under it so be careful not to lose it.  Once the stop screw is out, the throttle barrel assembly will come out by turning the entire assembly counter clockwise (from the left side).  The throttle barrel screws onto the end of the spray bar/fuel nipple.  From the looks of the engine, the barrel may be stuck.  Hit it with some penetrating oil and let it sit a day or so.  Be careful not to place too much pressure on the throttle arm -- this will bend fairly easily. Clean this up so it rotates easily -- try not to take any metal off the outside of the barrel since it should seal well with the carb body to avoid air leaks.

When used as an R/C engine, many folks simply remove the throttle stop screw and set the throw using the trim on the throttle servo.

Glad to see you got it apart. You got yourself a really nice power plant there. Chuck that crank in the drill press and polish it, but don't do anything other than rag and solvent cleaning to the bearing surfaces in the crankcase, even if they look scratched up. I'm looking forward to seeing it run.
Rusty