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Post  chevyiron420 Sat Feb 14, 2015 7:06 pm

One of my Babe Bee's has a bad brass reed. Can I use the plastic one from a plastic back plate to replace it?
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Post  roddie Sat Feb 14, 2015 7:53 pm

chevyiron420 wrote:One of my Babe Bee's has a bad brass reed. Can I use the plastic one from a plastic back plate to replace it?

Yes.. BUT the plastic (Mylar) reed is slightly thicker (.002" to .003" thicker..) than the Copper-beryllium (star-shaped) reed. The replacement reed should rotate freely (not be "pinched") when you re-install the wire clip-retainer. If it's tight.. you could try to run it.. but if it only runs off an "exhaust-prime" and quits after several attempts at starting, you may need to make some adjustments. Some modelers slightly "sand" the face of the wire clip-retainer (the side that faces the reed..) to achieve enough of a "gap" for the replacement reed to freely rotate with the clip installed.
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Post  chevyiron420 Sat Feb 14, 2015 8:59 pm

Thanks Roddie. the reed will sit down in there nice and flat, with out bind, but honestly I cant rotate it. My eyes and hand coordination just aint much anymore. I use an oil stone on the clip and put a little flat on the reed side of it. I have four babe's and I am useing info from here to put all the right parts back on the right engines the way they came. When I was a kid I mixed parts without care. A dual port cylinder, high compression babe doesnt run long on a tank of fuel. I have them all right now as best I can tell and two test run great. The third was the reed jumped out, and the fourth my batterys were dead. I hope to test the other two tomorrow. I have had some of these for over fourty years.
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Post  roddie Sat Feb 14, 2015 9:58 pm

You're welcome Phil. These engines are a lot of fun.. especially the more you learn about them and tinker. Just run the fuel that's made for them (plenty of castor oil in the total lube-package).. keep them leak-tight and clean.. and they'll return the favor by providing reliable running over their lifetime.
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