Pee Wee rc won't start

And he has you on the right path, a bit if tinkering and you`ll get it.
Someitimes its dificult to get them cleaned enough to run properly, it doesn`t take much to gum these little 020`s up that they wil not run;even though you can put liquid through under pressure the engine just can`t pull it through for itself.
As long as you have decent compression and not too many head gaskets in there it should run and is merely a fuel delivery problem.
I have a peewee that wil not run properly with even 1 head gasket in there,normally for me they require just 1 gasket.
Normally they do run with a high compression teedee glowhead but that engine I mentioned will not. Is yours using the standard or high compression glowhead?

It is also possible to have a bad needle fit, often times caused by someone seating the needle too tight and deforming the fit;normally a new needle is the fix for that if you can`t repair the needle`s shape deformity.

What needle setting did you have it running at: 2 1/2 - 3 turns is the norm for most of mine

Noticed that the tank screws were leaking like a sieve so I swapped out tank assembys and got a good run with three shims and the needle open seven turns!?! Anyone know where to get a new pee wee back plate?

New peewee backplate = unobtanium. Cheaper to buy a used engine sometimes.

Jason

Sadly, Jason_WI is correct ........for the most part........ on ebay you can find used engines, parts lots, individual parts and like that.
I just scored a new peewee heli backplate this week, and backplates come on there often if you look hard enough.

Its possible to permatex up those leaky backplate holes but not so much fun. I have a backplate in use now that had 2 of the screws pulled through it when I got it(used), jbweld and permatex with a little MacGyvering there but she runs now.

3 shims and 7 turns/needle, something is going on there............but at least it runs

7 turns. I would suspect that the very tiny needle orifice still has green goo covering part of that hole. Your basically running on whatever amount that obstruction is letting get past.

PV Pilot wrote:7 turns. I would suspect that the very tiny needle orifice still has green goo covering part of that hole. Your basically running on whatever amount that obstruction is letting get past.

I dunno I had a tee dee .010 from nib that ran at 7 turns.

This is the week I decided to hold back on the buying and start
the running. The 2 used I've got, I took the back plates off and squirted
some brake cleaner and compressed air thru the fuel ways. Both
would fire but were reluctant to stay running. After flipping and
Braaping and sometimes frustratingly braaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaping
the non throttled (eventually) stayed happy but at 6 turns. I ran outta time that
evening so gave up on the throttled. I also had a new (without starter spring) so thought
"why not?", started as per instructions except 3 turns out. Third flip starts+runs
like a dream but so far 2 tanks and max revs at 2.5 turns.
As the boys above say (and the instructions) if it braaps then it's just running on prime and needs
the needle opening to where it will keep running. Also my 010
liked 5+3/4's but stopped running/starting at all.Upon investigation needle
assembly was chocked, moral filter your fuel before using it.
I'll get the 3rd running at weekend and report back as to how.

John that sounds good but running an engine at full Tom on the first tanks is never a good idea.
Although cox claimed they need no break in they really do.

Starting rich.
Then only a couple secs leaner each time before richening up again Indra.

I received another (I really thought I'd stopped ) parcel this Morning and reading the (oh oh Norvel) instructions
I quote,-

It is VERY IMPORTANT not to use a rubber fuel bulb or syringe with a black rubber plunger
for transfering fuel into your fuel tank.
Use a plastic bottle or a NORVEL NO RUBtm fuel filler syringe (Part No etc etc).

Now, I have been using a 10cc syringe from the local chemists and thinking about it the rubber is definitely being
attacked by the fuel as even after the first fill the plunger seizes in the cylinder.
I have now stopped using anything with rubber as who knows where that melted latex is getting inside those small
fuel ways in the mota. Perhaps that's one of the ways all these motors run a lot of needle?

Doubtless one of you are now going to tell me I'm an idiot for using a syringe and 'everyone'
knows you're not supposed to....

The rubber collects on the glow plug element shortening its life span.

John Goddard wrote:I received another (I really thought I'd stopped ) parcel this Morning and reading the (oh oh Norvel) instructions
I quote,-

It is VERY IMPORTANT not to use a rubber fuel bulb or syringe with a black rubber plunger
for transfering fuel into your fuel tank.
Use a plastic bottle or a NORVEL NO RUBtm fuel filler syringe (Part No etc etc).

Now, I have been using a 10cc syringe from the local chemists and thinking about it the rubber is definitely being
attacked by the fuel as even after the first fill the plunger seizes in the cylinder.
I have now stopped using anything with rubber as who knows where that melted latex is getting inside those small
fuel ways in the mota. Perhaps that's one of the ways all these motors run a lot of needle?

Doubtless one of you are now going to tell me I'm an idiot for using a syringe and 'everyone'
knows you're not supposed to....

Don't know...I've been using a cattle syringe from the local farm supply for years...and everything seems to run OK. I keep a filter between it and the plane. Guess I'll use a plastic bottle for the Tachj Race if deference to protecting everyones' engines.

I use a syringe that looks a bit like the barrel of the maxim machine gun with water jacket if you get what i mean.

I have always used a standard syringe with rubber stopper. Should I stop as I get into .020's and Norvels?

microflitedude wrote:I have always used a standard syringe with rubber stopper. Should I stop as I get into .020's and Norvels?

Your choice really because IMO i do not notice a difference.

nitroairplane wrote:

microflitedude wrote:I have always used a standard syringe with rubber stopper. Should I stop as I get into .020's and Norvels?

Your choice really because IMO i do not notice a difference.

Agree with Indra...I'm all about taking the best care of these engines that we can, but sometimes, I think we can get really carried away worrying about everything in the universe that MIGHT harm our engines. I'd say run a good filter on all your fuel (open it up and check it once in a while), and just go out and fly your plane.

Of course, empty the syringe at the end of the flying, and replace it if it shows any kind of deterioration.

...just my 2 cents...

Yes because if you want to get into that there are many things that can be done to give engines longer lives than we are selves have.

And...you could always put them on a shelf and never run them...you'll get several generations-worth out of them that way!

Kim wrote:And...you could always put them on a shelf and never run them...you'll get several generations-worth out of them that way!

Apart from the delrin tanks they tend to rot because of i think Benzine in the fuel line from the factory.
This is not a problem with used engines because this has been washed out by the fuel.
So you guys with nib plastic tanked engines take out the fuel line before storing them.

Fired up No3 (throttled) runs perfectly at
2.5 turns