Just curious..Cox burned engines

rsv1cox wrote:Was I the only one here to bid and win on just one of three ebay auctions featuring Cox engines that were involved in a fire?  There were two other auctions of .010 and .020 engines that suffered the same fate.

I "won" these for the princely sum of $11.61.



Just curious as to how other "winners" are going to clean them up or just leave them as is.  

I don't know how to deal with the darned things.  A/F crock pot would lighten the anodized parts and leach the color out of the plastic parts.  Perhaps a few hours in ATF, or a hot water scrub with a dish detergent followed by a hot water rinse and a light oil, then a light heat gun to loosen and remove the parts?

I'm pretty sure that I can get all three running again if the pistons are not rusted to the cylinders.  I have replacements.  

Bob

Hello friend Bob, I'm glad you got those pieces, they really deserve to come back to life ...
I saw them published, just keep the photographs, since from here it is very expensive to obtain the spare parts.
Keep these photos waiting for someone with a lot of love and passion to get them and put good rebuilding hands on them..

Bob,

Go down to the auto parts store and grab a small container of Evapo-Rust. It is a non-caustic solution that removes the rust leaving the parts looking new and will not harm the plastic. It really does work, I use it for rusty auto parts.

Ron

BTW, I mentioned it elsewhere, but the listed .010 engines are actually TD .020’s. The center post on the heads are dead giveaway.

Ron

At some point you may want to try a 50-50 mixture of acetone-automatic transmission fluid for penetration. Be advised, however, that you will need to shake the solution up at least once daily as the two components do separate. Suerte Che.

Bob, for that cost I think you did fine. As others alluded to, you got the best parts that are unobtainium, the crankcases. The other parts are available. Once you get the parts freed up and de-rusted, the aluminium will clean up well with fine steel wool and Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish. The cylinders can be re-blued. With minimal cost, you ought to have a couple good runners there. For all you know, those corrosion pits showing through the polished aluminium, may be along side of the engine prior to restoring could be considered as "beauty marks" in the next Cox Engine of the Month Contest.

I learned a lot on my K&B .35 Stallion restoration. Just because there is rust there doesn't mean that the important parts are seriously harmed. At first I though I may have been ripped off by the erroneous description of occlusion defects, but after all my work found that engine to have new-like compression.

There's a sense of personal satisfaction in resurrecting these jewels, even more in running them and putting them into action.

I would love to have the one with the RJL diesel head
looks like a awsome challage to get it running again

Thanks all, I'm hoping that perhaps enough castor remained to protect the interiors, but it's doubtful. A lot depends whether these were burned years ago or last month. Rust never sleeps. I'm eager to find out.

Yes, that diesel head was what convinced me to bid.

Looking for Evapo-rust. Good stuff about it on google. I have a product called Rust-Mort -death to rust, but it wouldn't work in this case.

Bob

robot797 wrote:I would love to have the one with the RJL diesel head
looks like a awsome challage to get it running again

Old thread here regarding it.

https://www.coxengineforum.com/t6789-rjl-diesel-head-for-cox-049

You can find evapo-rust at most auto parts stores and most home stores (Lowes)

I think you will be happy with the results.

rsv1cox wrote:

robot797 wrote:I would love to have the one with the RJL diesel head
looks like a awsome challage to get it running again

Old thread here regarding it.

https://www.coxengineforum.com/t6789-rjl-diesel-head-for-cox-049

ps look at my tread about a RJL/davis diesel hybrid

https://www.coxengineforum.com/t12235-davis-diesel-head-improvement

Cribbs74 wrote:You can find evapo-rust at most auto parts stores and most home stores (Lowes). I think you will be happy with the results.

Thanks, Ron. In the past I've always used Naval Jelly, which is phosphoric acid, and for really heavy rust, Muriatic acid (diluted hydrochloric.) Only problem with these is they will dissolve aluminium and the softer metals, along with plastic, paper, etc. Plus, the Naval Jelly currently available is not near the stuff that was available 45 years ago, it is watered down to the point where I must reapply more times than I'd like.

Seems odd that engines that were in a fire did not have their plastic tanks melted.

I've had cylinder like that and put them in diesel fuel in a peanut butter jar. A week later they were in excellent condition with a old toothbrush scrubbing

706jim wrote:Seems odd that engines that were in a fire did not have their plastic tanks melted.

Usually when the inital blaze is quenched, the firefighters will come in and toss the place looking for smoldering items or anything that could re-ignite the fire. They are not careful when doing this and it’s quite possible that unburnt engines were knocked onto the wet ground and left. The goal is to save the structure, not the contents within.

My FIL is a firefighter, I have seen him in action and I have had a chance to help put out fires with him, so this is just what I have seen.

Ron

Well, after an eleven day stint in the USPS system being tossed around from small town to small town they finally arrived.

As expected they are toast literately, but hope springs eternal. On short notice a 50/50 mix of kerosene and Marvel Mystery oil in a pickle jar may loosen them up. I couldn't find Evapro-Rust in the local Walmart, but will get some eventually.

I think that will work just fine

Got my fingers crossed. After all, I was the one who hung out the bait.

ticomareado wrote:Got my fingers crossed. After all, I was the one who hung out the bait.

Red meat before a hungry dog for me.

The worser the better I like 'em.

Bob

rsv1cox wrote:Was I the only one here to bid and win on just one of three ebay auctions featuring Cox engines that were involved in a fire?  There were two other auctions of .010 and .020 engines that suffered the same fate.
Bob

Hang in there Bob. It was a real gamble on the .010. Soaked what was left in a solution of ATF and Acetone for a few days. Applied heat...gently... and was able to loosen the glow head from the cylinder. The .010 venturi along with the needle valve body and needle was missing. The carb body was toast. The attached tank was punctured. It came with a toast .020 needle valve body and venturi sans needle valve. I located a .010 needle valve body and needle/spring. (Those are fun to find.)  Had a spare .010 carb body.

Why all this time and effort? The .010 piston/cylinders are unobtainum. Got lucky on the project...Very Lucky!

                              Before



                                After (missing fuel line, needle/spring, needle body and venturi)

Well, it appears that some of these engines are in very good and capable hands! Good job and good luck on their restorations!

DrCox wrote:

rsv1cox wrote:Was I the only one here to bid and win on just one of three ebay auctions featuring Cox engines that were involved in a fire?  There were two other auctions of .010 and .020 engines that suffered the same fate.
Bob

Hang in there Bob.

Why all this time and effort? The .010 piston/cylinders are unobtainum. Got lucky on the project
             
]

Hey Doc,  If you really really want some Unobtainum,  our sponsers EX Model Engines and Cox International have recently purchased a large lot of parts and are taking pre orders on stuff like 010 pistons and cylinders. You better send them a email if you are really interested in some.    (
Here is link with e mail address to send list to: https://www.coxengineforum.com/t12308-huge-cox-lot-purchased#157505

Marleysky wrote:
Hey Doc,  If you really really want some Unobtainum,  our sponsers EX Model Engines and Cox International have recently purchased a large lot of parts and are taking pre orders on stuff like 010 pistons and cylinders. You better send them a email if you are really interested in some.    (
Here is link with e mail address to send list to: https://www.coxengineforum.com/t12308-huge-cox-lot-purchased#157505

A sincere Thank You for that info. I bought my first jewel case .010 back about in 1976 never using it. Just marveling at the engineering of that engine. Yup, still marvel at it today.

Thanks again.

rsv1cox wrote:

ticomareado wrote:Got my fingers crossed. After all, I was the one who hung out the bait.

 Red meat before a hungry dog for me.  

The worser the better I like 'em.  

Bob

If you do get them free and apart spinning the cylinders in a lathe using 400 grit sandpaper between the fins to clean the rust out and re-blueing the cylinder will look like new. As long as there isn’t any pitting in the cylinder it should run.