The Cars are the Stars Contest.

So I didn’t mention it before, I contacted Matt and Bernie about prizes for the event. They are both willing however, they were concerned about participation. In the past many either didn’t participate or pulled out at the end.

I would like to see max participation before I pull the trigger and hit them up again for prizes.

Ron

I'm definitely in for whatever category of fun you decide I will fit in! I'm almost tempted to put skiis on this thing!

Ron,

I’ll donate these 3D printed goodies to the cause. Cox 3 D cell battery insert with the Cox battery graphic from Levent. A set of TD display stands, Nylon postage stamp mount, and if I can get it working, a Pee Wee .020 horseshoe back plate.

With Jason's help I have Ol' #2 rebuilt and ready to go.



Front suspension is a little loosy goosy just have to adjust the tie rods a bit. Added the tether and driver last week. Give me ten minutes and we ready for May first and Le Mans.

I will come up with something , sounds like fun

I'm still in with a modified Shrike.
It's been on the drawing board for a three or four years so this is just what's needed to get me to do it.

Marleysky wrote:
I think the Dr. has been working on one or two...https://www.coxengineforum.com/t12657-65-corvette#162439

I think I need to retire. This thread has been here since Dec 11 of last year and now I'm just reading it?

The whole thread is a great idea.

As a kid, it was difficult to find other friends interested in gas powered models. And now, here is a whole group of Cox addicts ready to get down to true fun.

Heck...I'm in.

That’s great guys, the more the merrier.

I would certainly like to see some more building going on.

This contest has been eating at me. I've wanted to build a wheel-driven Cox-engine powered model ever since I got back into the 1/2A Cox glow-engine powered airplanes in the early 1990's. The "U-control" airplanes took precedence.. because of my family-history.. but I have marveled at the possible "surface-model" design/applications for our marvelous little engines.

Could I build a simple little tether-car.. without making my brain bleed? I'm used-to dealing with my bleeding brain.., so I say YES! I'll try to get a car together for this..

I have a 1.375" O.D. PVC flywheel.. and found a 1.375" O.D. opposing wheel to balance-out a drive-axle.



A rubber-band "tread" wrapped-around that flywheel should provide adequate traction for an "inboard" drive-wheel. The 1.375" diameter should provide adequate ground-clearance below the frame/body of the vehicle.

Worth a shot! Glad to have you join in.

Cribbs74 wrote:Worth a shot! Glad to have you join in.

How difficult can this be? I think not very.. as long as I apply the K.I.S.S. method (keep it simple.. stupid) The last thing I need.. is another model-project on the table.. but this just screams FUN. I'm really going to try to keep this build simple by designing my car as a tethered "profile" model.. having only an "outline" of a body.. and only the essential elements of operation.

I'm planning a rear-engine (Cox .049 reed-valve) with an inboard flywheel drive. The non-powered outboard rear axle will have a "wider-track" for stability. A simple wedge-tank will be used for fuel-delivery.. and a stock-Cox heat-sink clamp will be used on the top-end.

This 3mm Luan ply body will be the main-structure. I used a French-curve to arrive at something that looked streamlined..



The Dremel scroll-saw made short-work of cutting it out.



The front axle is planned to be a very narrow-track.. with the pair of wooden wheels straddling the 3mm Luan-ply body.

Looks like you have a nice little project on your hands. WIll be watching on and off this week as I will be in the midwest in my favorite desert.... The one with lots of lights and scenery.... When I get a chance, I will be watching.

I threw this together pretty quick.. but I had been thinking about the design.. on and off for the last few weeks. I still need to mount the #18 1/3 oz. (9.85cc) Perfect-brand "short-std." wedge tank.. but that should be a non-issue. The fuel tank/payload; together with the outboard stationary 1/8" music-wire rear-axle with wheel/tire was designed to counter-balance the rear-end to offset the weight of the inboard drive-system. It's working-out as planned so far. I don't have a bridle-mount for the tether worked out yet.. That will be a deal-breaker I'm sure.





The blocks either-side of the plywood are 1/4" Maple. I wanted a substantially thick "base" for mounting the engine.. and also for the 1/8" music-wire outboard axle.






The Rodd-E-Liminator...........

She looks fast roddie! As for birdle mount, mine is simply bent wire with zero bends on the end and through control horns. If that makes sense? If you want a better picture of mine, you will unfortunately have to wait till I get home on saturday. My earlier pictures however may be clear enough to see what I was trying to say.

Oh yeah! That “Traction Tire” is exactly what I had invisioned when you first posted pictures of your PVC cutouts. I know some of the later Cox cars had hard plastic tires and figured WhyNot? Im still just cleaning the plastic on my old Shrikes, with some wild thoughts on the unlimited catagory! Thanks for updating us.

A question regarding roddies build...... Since he is using a 'traction tire', does it matter where that tire/ engine is placed? Inside or outside, as a reedie can run either direction. Just kinda thinking like a control line plane here, and mI mind is wondering.

Good going roddie. Looks like a Salt Flats Special.

If a tether doesn't work out you could make it a leisurely straight liner.

Or:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DbgLtdlY2a0

How would a straight line work with the Cox cars?  I think mine has a provision for that.  I put a wire in, for a circle burner, at the balance point but am not sure if it would work.  It may come in on the line, or crab out.  I never tried this thing, the crank has a lot of slop and likely needs a new case, or bushings maybe. ( I have done that)  I would bet it would not hold a needle setting as is, and the plastic tube in the tank is likely powder after 50 years.

For straight line use, there should be a hole with a grommet at the front and back of your chassis. Just run a long string through the holes.

Disassemble that engine and replace the consumables. Bet it will run like a champ. Compare with this one.

So at the end of the line, it just runs into the post or jug and spins the wheels, or stalls out? Seems kind of crude. I have no body to break I guess. Not even sure which one it would have come with. I think the Corvette one maybe?

aspeed wrote:So at the end of the line, it just runs into the post or jug and spins the wheels, or stalls out?  Seems kind of crude.  I have no body to break I guess.  Not even sure which one it would have come with.  I think the Corvette one maybe?

There is a diagram in the owners manual of how to set up the straight line Dragster set up. The end was two posts (nails) with rubber bands attached to a line strung between, with the straight line attached in the middle, sorta looks like a “Y” to cushion the car at the end. Yeah, It was crude, that’s why most cars DON’T have their front grille or bumpers! Ya end up burning tires or stripping gears. Oh what fun we had!  

To help ID the cars, check the Hubcaps, and the color of the front wheel spacers. The wheelspacers are usually the color of the car body and the hubcaps are Corvette, Buick or Ford Gt design. The one Bob shows above has two colored spacers so it could have been a   Corvette (black)  or Ford Gt.(blue) oop , Riveria came blue also.