TD 09 Ducted Fan

The .09 engine mount appears to be too weak for a .15 engine.
There is simply not enough meat on the beam to radial mount interface.

Brad, The engine mount is not for the 09. That one is narrower and fits into the stator tube. The motor mount I have is for the .11 - .15 engines. The whole kit was assembled like that. I don't have any specific 09 parts. By the way, the engine is also supported by the stator.

Ok great looking forward to your success!

That's where I filed away the edge to make room for the crankcase.

I hope to bring this to a good end. The most difficult part is yet to come: the stator. That piece was already assembled by the previous owner. I have to reposition the 2 upper blades and cut off the tube. The whole unit is too big in diameter to fit into the outer tube. I'll have to take some material off the blades and still make sure that it's still centered!

The stator is modified. I widened the gap and repositioned the 2 upper blades. The major part of the tube was cut off.







Now this is not the end (as Churchill said).



When holding the stator on the engine, the gap between the back of the stator tube end the engine bearers should be 1/8". I have to make notches in the stator hole to slide it further back on the engine.

Today, I ground some notches in the stator tube as indicated in the instructions. This to go around the crankcase webs of the engine.










I still have to remove some material in way of the bosses that sit against the engine mount braces.







Almost there!

Your doing a Fantastic job Overlord this is more of a DIY than a Kit , i hope it all turns out for the Best!!

The first time I see this kit from Kress. It's a Morley ducted fan conversion kit for a TeeDee 09. Morley ducted fans seem to have an electric motor in the standard configuration.

I have a couple electric Morley units. I've never seen this kit for the .09. I seem to remember from the magazines Kress himself built an airplane using one of these, maybe that V1? I doubt I've ever seen anything else.

getback wrote:Your doing a Fantastic job Overlord this is more of a DIY than a Kit , i hope it all turns out for the Best!!

More DIY.

The stator will be bolted onto the engine mount but has remain centered at the same time. To do this by eye is rather difficult and not so precise. Therefore I made a little gizmo out of 3 pieces of plywood glued together. A first round piece fits the engine prop stud and 2 more C-shaped pieces are glued to that. The outer diameter is the inside diameter of the stator tube and can just slide into that. When done up against the prop washer, this piece sould determine the right position of the stator. At least, that's what I hope!

After some more grinding, a bit of swearing, fitting and more grinding, I got the stator ring to fit. I fixed the engine mount braces to the engine bearers. The instructions say to drill with a 52 thou drill (1,3 mm) but I found that too small. When mounting the #2 screws, you have to put too much pressure on the head with the shallow split that things wear out fast. Therefore, I redrilled with 1,5mm.

It's no wonder so few were actually built.

Today, I fitted the stator blades. On the left side, 1 blade needed a cut out to make room for the engine bearer.








I now have to fit this unit in the outer tube, but:

- the blades are too big
- the outer tube is not round
- the rotor has to be centered
- I have to find a way to insert the engine without taking it apart


The outer tube is made of Vivak which is a sort of PET like the plastic water bottles. This material seems to be stressed internally. When I cut the small tube that goes below the crankcase, the material folded back on itself. The outer tube has 2 holes, one for the cylinder head and one for the carb extension. These holes create unequal stresses, resulting in the tube not being round anymore.

Damn , and wow non fit stuff ! Can you use a stiff bottle of todays plastics to replace the older and deformed ?

Eric, I have to keep the outer tube because that fits exactly around the rotor. I'm thinking of making wooden forms to keep the tube round while fixing the stator. Once that is done, the tube will hopefully keep its shape.

Below a few pictures of the rotor mounted on the new RC Conquest with the custom nut made by Surferkris. The nut is perfectly made and fits as it should fit. Just great!! Thanks Kris!!

Cool Kris to the rescue ! I was wondering what had happened to the thread , Good to see your back on it .

I'm glad to see that it worked out!

There is nothing "standard" about that that nut, it is about twice as long as any of the commercial ones that I have seen, and the diameter is also slightly larger. They really should have included one in the kit...

Surfer_kris wrote:I'm glad to see that it worked out!

There is nothing "standard" about that that nut, it is about twice as long as any of the commercial ones that I have seen, and the diameter is also slightly larger. They really should have included one in the kit...

The standard Kress fan has the parts to fit a TeeDee 09. There was a conversion kit available for .11 and .15 engines. This kit had the countersunk fanss and also the nut and washer. In the box I got, This conversion kit was included but the nut got probably lost. I remember that the previous owner said on the phone he had a Webra or an Enya .11 for it and it might be that the nut is still on that engine right now!

Today, I fitted the spinner to the rotor. The spinner base plate is not fixed by means of the central prop nut but is mounted onto the rotor with 2 1/2" screws. The centre of the spinner base has to be drilled out to make place for the rotor nut. Kress says there should be a 1/4" washer but I naven't got such a washer. I will try to find a M7 washer in my Citroën bolt stock and use that. The centre hole is drilled out big enough to fit the 10mm socket to do up the rotor nut.












The rotor mounted on the engine and in the plastic tube. According to the instructions, the engine with tank, stator and rotor should slide in the tube from the rear. In order to be able to do that, I will have to cut the part behind the cylinder.

I fitted the cooling cap to the tube. This piece is, as the tube, made from PET. The cooling cap has to be cut out and made to size. It is fixed to the tube with 4 bolts an nyloc nuts. I don't know what size they are but they are a bit smaller than M3. The instructions don't mention anything about this sequence. For the moment I used M3 bolts and normal nuts as I still have to take it apart during assembly.











When inserting the engine with fan I found out that a hole has to be drilled in the cooling cap in way of the glow plug to mount the engine horizontally. This hole will have to be big enough for the glow starter. As mentioned above, the plastic part of the tube aft of the cylinder hole will have to be cut away otherwise it is not possible to slide the engine and stator into the tube. Also the unit has to be mounted a bit further back as the fan may not interfere with the bolt heads of the cooling cap.

You need to work at NASA to put the thing together