Kinner Sportster

I'm thinking of ultracote for covering. Weight is 16oz w/o covering. A little heavy but should be ok. It's a fun build but I'm itching to get it in the air. Some guys have spent months on this kit. Their attention to detail is unreal. Wish I had their patience!

I also have a Flyline Kinner Sportster kit and I always thought that silkspan would keep the authenticity of the era.
Especially true with a Speed 400 that has no hot fuel issues to deal with.

66 Malibu wrote:I also have a Flyline Kinner Sportster kit and I always thought that silkspan would keep the authenticity of the era.
Especially true with a Speed 400 that has no hot fuel issues to deal with.

Nice to hear of another Kinner. Is yours flying? Did you go nitro or electric? Any pics available?
Mine seems a little heavy, I'm hoping for the best.

No,  
I have not started to build the Kinner yet mainly due to lack of time and other things in progress. The print balsa sheets will require much more time and work than I can devote to it right now to meet the end result of a really nice build.
Of the Flyline series of kits, the Kinner and the Bucker Jungmann ( which I also have) are the most desirable for me.
I have a friend here in Atlanta who has one of all the kits but I looked long and hard for my two kits with the Bucker being the Holy Grail for me.
Looking forward to following your build in progress.
Steve...

If you are going the plastic covering route, I would think that with a build as nice and clean as yours, a transparent covering would both look nice, and you can show off your great building skills!

Here is a couple more shots as the build progressed. I started on Oct 19th. Right now I'm thinking of going with a "Pull Pull" rudder. I have never done one before. I wonder if they sell a small 1/2A kit for that?

I may be wrong here as I have never done a pull-pull setup before, but could you use two small control horns opposite each other and then use just thread/spectra fishing lines for the 'cables'?

NEW222 wrote:I may be wrong here as I have never done a pull-pull setup before, but could you use two small control horns opposite each other and then use just thread/spectra fishing lines for the 'cables'?

That's what I was thinking. I just need to figure out some kind of eyelets to attach to the rudder for the lines.

Call it redneck, but I may be able to suggest something. In my foamies, I just use a piece of 'zip tie/ ty'strap' with a hole in teh end glued in place, and none have ever given me problems, with the exception of my own doing..... Anyways, with a model as yours, you should be able to safely use that technique. Make it as long as you want, round the edges and drill two 1/16" holes (one on each end). With balsa, I would quickly rough it up and insert it through a slit in the rudder itself as one piece, and glue in place. Then you would have one 'ridgid' control horn. Run your strings as required and see how it goes. Again, I use them on foamies, so if you were to try it, I would try it out on a scrap piece of balsa and see how it holds or such. Just a thought on what I would be trying.

NEW222 wrote:Call it redneck, but I may be able to suggest something. In my foamies, I just use a piece of 'zip tie/ ty'strap' with a hole in teh end glued in place, and none have ever given me problems, with the exception of my own doing..... Anyways, with a model as yours, you should be able to safely use that technique. Make it as long as you want, round the edges and drill two 1/16" holes (one on each end). With balsa, I would quickly rough it up and insert it through a slit in the rudder itself as one piece, and glue in place. Then you would have one 'ridgid' control horn. Run your strings as required and see how it goes. Again, I use them on foamies, so if you were to try it, I would try it out on a scrap piece of balsa and see how it holds or such. Just a thought on what I would be trying.

I like the zip tie control horn. Most of the horns you buy are the same material. I included a couple pics of my CA hinges and tooth pic pins.

I really like the toothpick idea for a bit of extra added security. Something to remember for the next time I use them. Glad you like the zip-tie idea. It does look good in the test piece.

Took the Kinner out today. A little shakey on takeoff and ended in the grass with a broken landing gear. I need to re-think the gear layout. Something a little more forgiving.

Repaired the landing gear. Used wire this time. Now just need some good weather to give it another try.

Great job on the plane. It looks really nice.

The Kinner got a pilot today. I'm counting on his help on my next flight!

Well I flew the Kinner the other day. First flight did not go too well. She needed more dihedral. I did some work on her and the video below is the results. she did fly ok but my repair was not up to par and I lost a wing. She may now be a wall hanger but you never know!

https://youtu.be/1_6hVUJXuLw

Rick,

I see the problem right off, there is no Cox engine in it!

In all seriousness though, what is the wing loading? AUW with the electric vs the glow?

It did seem to roll out ok though. I say fix it and try again, sorry it broke, but hey it flew!

Ron

Hi, I'm sorry about the accident.
Do you have photos of the wing? Just the center, I would like to see the structure. Maybe I can give an opinion by seeing it.
Thank you.

Sorry about the crash of your beautiful plane. I always replace the wooden spars and leading edges with carbon rods or hollow sections sold by hobby shops, that will never leave you with wings broken or collapsing in harsh landings or aggressive loops or similar when wooden parts yield much sooner.

I do not often fly electric planes, I only have one foamy that also has an embedded carbon spar as stock design, but the vibrations generated by internal combustion engines really call for such carbon reinforcements.

Just my 2 cents.