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by rsv1cox Sun Mar 17, 2024 7:46 pm
Testors 049
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Re: Testors 049
Ford currently uses that same similar material that the crankcase is made from to make their intake manifolds . They work great until they split on the mold line and antifreeze leaks out. Ken
Ken Cook- Top Poster
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Re: Testors 049
Ian, A nice 3D printer project would be to re-design a rear-end for those little engines. The reed holder/seat would be the most critical part I think? Most people don't use them because you can't easily mount them in anything.
As for the "unobtainable" glow-heads... I wonder if anyone has tried to mill the top of a burnt plug and drill/tap it out for a 1/4 x 32 thread standard glow-plug? It works with the Cox version. Maybe not possible, because the Testors design is a lot shorter?
As for the "unobtainable" glow-heads... I wonder if anyone has tried to mill the top of a burnt plug and drill/tap it out for a 1/4 x 32 thread standard glow-plug? It works with the Cox version. Maybe not possible, because the Testors design is a lot shorter?
Re: Testors 049
it's common to do, in fact MECOA sells them https://mecoa.biz/shopdisplayproducts.asp?catalogid=1646
I've seen guys use these engines beam mounted with a large zip tie.
I've seen guys use these engines beam mounted with a large zip tie.
Re: Testors 049
Ken Cook wrote: Ford currently uses that same similar material that the crankcase is made from to make their intake manifolds . They work great until they split on the mold line and antifreeze leaks out. Ken
...lol, don't talk to me about Fords, I try to sleep at night with the knowledge that I have a CVT transmission in my wife's car : ^(...
Re: Testors 049
ian1954 wrote:A few don't like these but I have to say that this is one of the easiest starters I have known.
It is not the prettiest device but the starter spring is "fiddle free".
Actually Ian, you have it assembled incorrectly. It is a CL engine and you need to pop the crankcase off the tank and install it with the needle opposite the cylinder. With correct orientation, the engine is mounted with the cylinder pointed outboard and the needle inboard. In that position, the tank fill is inside, top. I believe yours is missing the little cap that is installed after the tank is filled. You will also find that yours has the optional plastic cover over the needle valve.
This is another engine that fell through the cracks when Testor's went out of business. BTW, in the box they were displayed upside down.
George
gcb- Platinum Member
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Re: Testors 049
I have one.. I have never run it. I just decided to take it apart this afternoon, because it was stuck. I found that it been previously run by someone.. and there was a burr inside the cylinder near an exhaust port. The piston did not appear scored though. I took a tiny round file to the cylinder (lightly) and smoothed out the burr.
The reed is a star-shaped transparent-orange mylar type. I removed it, cleaned it and re-installed with the circlip and it operates fine.
The glow-head gasket in mine was a non-ferrous (Aluminum?) type.. which measured .031" thick!!! A Cox .049 gasket is .005" thick by comparison. The two types are very close to the same size otherwise. Compression didn't seem great with the thick (stock?) gasket.. so I installed x1 Cox gasket. The compression seems better.. and the piston does not bind. This would be .026" less gasket thickness than what "was" in there.
I'd like to run it.. but I don't really have a way to mount it securely... a common problem with these.
Ian's as you can see; has a different back-plate than mine does. Did Testors use a "press-in" vinyl-type fuel-line in the hole just behind the needle.. or am I missing a fitting?
I have two 4-blade props that fit this engine. I suspect the prop-shaft is 6-32 threaded, because Cox props are too small.
The reed is a star-shaped transparent-orange mylar type. I removed it, cleaned it and re-installed with the circlip and it operates fine.
The glow-head gasket in mine was a non-ferrous (Aluminum?) type.. which measured .031" thick!!! A Cox .049 gasket is .005" thick by comparison. The two types are very close to the same size otherwise. Compression didn't seem great with the thick (stock?) gasket.. so I installed x1 Cox gasket. The compression seems better.. and the piston does not bind. This would be .026" less gasket thickness than what "was" in there.
I'd like to run it.. but I don't really have a way to mount it securely... a common problem with these.
Ian's as you can see; has a different back-plate than mine does. Did Testors use a "press-in" vinyl-type fuel-line in the hole just behind the needle.. or am I missing a fitting?
I have two 4-blade props that fit this engine. I suspect the prop-shaft is 6-32 threaded, because Cox props are too small.
Re: Testors 049
I had one of those after winning it in a Free Flight contest years ago. Moved it on new in the box as I had no use for it.
I do have a spare head for it plus two heads that screw on that take plugs, as per the MECOA head.
Does anybody know if the Testor head and MECOA heads work okay in WEN-MAC engines, as I have a couple of MK12s that at the moment run okay on the original heads as yet unblown.
Reason I ask is that the original WEN-MAC head screws directly onto the cylinder liner with NO gasket, but the Testor head has a gasket quite thick made from aluminum that no doubt would lower the compression...........A COX copper gasket being thin also fits that would put the comp. back to about where it should be.
Just interested to know any information please.
FWIW, and no laughing, but I also have original WEN-MACS with the short reach plug in MK1, MK2 and MK3 that are all good...........plus of course a dozen COX reed and TD engines that I use, and love them.
I do have a spare head for it plus two heads that screw on that take plugs, as per the MECOA head.
Does anybody know if the Testor head and MECOA heads work okay in WEN-MAC engines, as I have a couple of MK12s that at the moment run okay on the original heads as yet unblown.
Reason I ask is that the original WEN-MAC head screws directly onto the cylinder liner with NO gasket, but the Testor head has a gasket quite thick made from aluminum that no doubt would lower the compression...........A COX copper gasket being thin also fits that would put the comp. back to about where it should be.
Just interested to know any information please.
FWIW, and no laughing, but I also have original WEN-MACS with the short reach plug in MK1, MK2 and MK3 that are all good...........plus of course a dozen COX reed and TD engines that I use, and love them.
gossie- Gold Member
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Location : Gold Coast Australia.
Maybe I'll try one of these.
I get the urge to try one of these again from time to time, but whenever I do, I look on eBay and the ones listed are either trashed, or are good but more than I want to pay. I guess I'll keep looking. Preferably I'd like to score one in package for a decent price, but they always go over what I want to pay. Patience is a virtue, I guess. I had a Testors Mustang when I was a kid, and it would never run. I couldn't figure out why, since my Cox engines always ran for me.
The Not So Virtuous Mark
The Not So Virtuous Mark
batjac- Diamond Member
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Re: Testors 049
Mark,
I have one you can try out for free. PM me if interested.
Ron
I have one you can try out for free. PM me if interested.
Ron
Cribbs74- Moderator
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Re: Testors 049
Regarding tank orientation, you will note on the Testors Series 8000 engine, as pictured in Ian & George's posts, that the tank has a small lug projecting out the front. This lug should be located in the groove between the "rails" on one side of the engine. The lug has a tapered end, like a ramp, and it only require a light twist in the correct direction to remove the tank as the ramp pops it straight off. The heads regularly come up N.O.S. on ebay and the MECOA head adaptor should fit any of the Wen Mac/McCoy/Testors engines which use a glow head.
Rod.
Rod.
Oldenginerod- Top Poster
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Re: Testors 049
Has anyone figured out how to remove the fuel tank I have white nylon tank type that does not come with the mounting tabs. The tank must be press fitted in as it just spins around 360 degs.
1/2A Nut- Top Poster
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Re: Testors 049
roddie wrote:
Ian's as you can see; has a different back-plate than mine does. Did Testors use a "press-in" vinyl-type fuel-line in the hole just behind the needle.. or am I missing a fitting?
If you're talking about the type of tank pictured, it just pops straight off with a bit of a pull. Unlike the series 8000 engine which Ian first pictured, which has a lug to locate the tank in one position, the Fly-em engines like yours are free to spin and are orientated bu sitting firmly clamped in the fuselage. To answer Roddie's question, the hole beside the needle valve in the Fly-em style fuel tank is actually the air intake.
Rod.
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Re: Testors 049
Thank you Rod the one I have is new never ran out of an unopened er until today CL spitfire. I didnt want to get too vigorous with it without knowing the outcome.
1/2A Nut- Top Poster
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Re: Testors 049
When I compare the piston to a cox .049 piston the testors one in more the dia of a .051 The flywheel is smaller in dia than the cox engine the overall stroke is shorter making for more inherent rpm. If you could machine a aluminum crankcase to accept a space hopper reed / venturi for more air / fuel mix the engine parts could make a great speed engine.
1/2A Nut- Top Poster
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Re: Testors 049
Oldenginerod wrote:roddie wrote:
Ian's as you can see; has a different back-plate than mine does. Did Testors use a "press-in" vinyl-type fuel-line in the hole just behind the needle.. or am I missing a fitting?
If you're talking about the type of tank pictured, it just pops straight off with a bit of a pull. Unlike the series 8000 engine which Ian first pictured, which has a lug to locate the tank in one position, the Fly-em engines like yours are free to spin and are orientated bu sitting firmly clamped in the fuselage. To answer Roddie's question, the hole beside the needle valve in the Fly-em style fuel tank is actually the air intake.
Rod.
Thanks Rod.. but I'm still a little confused. The rear-end on this engine seems to be more like a Cox 290 prod. engine backplate (in function).. and would use an external tank, wouldn't it? It's just not large enough to hold a significant amount of fuel for any type of model. I would think that the fuel tank for this Testor's "Prod. engine" (as with the later Cox RTR models) would have been a separate one mounted in the model, with fill/vent nipples/holes.. on the top of the fuse's nose.
I would guess that the "square" opening at the back is for air-intake.. however I can't see any sort of a "mesh-screen" to keep debris from fouling the reed.
Here's a few photos I took.. which "might" depict this particular engine being installed in an "inverted-cylinder" orientation in an airplane... with the back-plate turned so that the needle protrudes out the lower outboard side of the fuse, the "fuel-line" (which probably would have been a stiffer clear-vinyl type) "pushed-into" the hole next to the needle.. and the "square" air intake (at the rear...) facing "down".. for less chance of dirt/sand being able to enter. The single "mount-rail" on the case would have been on the "inboard" side of the fuse.. and out of the way of fuel-line maintenance. It's just a theory... but makes sense to me.
Unfortunately.. this engine; unlike the Cox prod. engines, has no crankcase screws securing it's backplate.. making mounting in any other model except the one it was produced for.. virtually impossible.
Re: Testors 049
roddie wrote:Oldenginerod wrote:roddie wrote:
Ian's as you can see; has a different back-plate than mine does. Did Testors use a "press-in" vinyl-type fuel-line in the hole just behind the needle.. or am I missing a fitting?
If you're talking about the type of tank pictured, it just pops straight off with a bit of a pull. Unlike the series 8000 engine which Ian first pictured, which has a lug to locate the tank in one position, the Fly-em engines like yours are free to spin and are orientated bu sitting firmly clamped in the fuselage. To answer Roddie's question, the hole beside the needle valve in the Fly-em style fuel tank is actually the air intake.
Rod.
Thanks Rod.. but I'm still a little confused. The rear-end on this engine seems to be more like a Cox 290 prod. engine backplate (in function).. and would use an external tank, wouldn't it? It's just not large enough to hold a significant amount of fuel for any type of model. I would think that the fuel tank for this Testor's "Prod. engine" (as with the later Cox RTR models) would have been a separate one mounted in the model, with fill/vent nipples/holes.. on the top of the fuse's nose.
I would guess that the "square" opening at the back is for air-intake.. however I can't see any sort of a "mesh-screen" to keep debris from fouling the reed.
Here's a few photos I took.. which "might" depict this particular engine being installed in an "inverted-cylinder" orientation in an airplane... with the back-plate turned so that the needle protrudes out the lower outboard side of the fuse, the "fuel-line" (which probably would have been a stiffer clear-vinyl type) "pushed-into" the hole next to the needle.. and the "square" air intake (at the rear...) facing "down".. for less chance of dirt/sand being able to enter. The single "mount-rail" on the case would have been on the "inboard" side of the fuse.. and out of the way of fuel-line maintenance. It's just a theory... but makes sense to me.
Unfortunately.. this engine; unlike the Cox prod. engines, has no crankcase screws securing it's backplate.. making mounting in any other model except the one it was produced for.. virtually impossible.
Roddie, The white "backplate" is actually the gas tank. The square hole in the back is the fill tube. The round hole that sits right by the needle adjustment is a vent hole. On the series 8000 engine, I have primed the engine from that hole, and it has worked perfectly. Much better than the surestart snorkel. I have run a couple of the Series 8000 engine, and they run great. I see them on ebay frequently and you can pick them up Brand New for about $20 + shipping if you are patient. Frankly, they are worth the money. The series 8000 engine is suppose to be very powerful. About like a black widow. I got that information from an engine test article. Check it out here:
http://sceptreflight.net/Model%20Engine%20Tests/Testor%208000%20(2).html
BL: Easy starting and powerful .049 engine. Also, a "revolutionary" piece of 1/2a history. From my perspective, a must have if you collect 1/2a engines. At $20 for a brand new engine - basically a steal. Andy
anm2- Gold Member
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Join date : 2013-03-30
Re: Testors 049
anm2 wrote:roddie wrote:Oldenginerod wrote:roddie wrote:
Ian's as you can see; has a different back-plate than mine does. Did Testors use a "press-in" vinyl-type fuel-line in the hole just behind the needle.. or am I missing a fitting?
If you're talking about the type of tank pictured, it just pops straight off with a bit of a pull. Unlike the series 8000 engine which Ian first pictured, which has a lug to locate the tank in one position, the Fly-em engines like yours are free to spin and are orientated bu sitting firmly clamped in the fuselage. To answer Roddie's question, the hole beside the needle valve in the Fly-em style fuel tank is actually the air intake.
Rod.
Thanks Rod.. but I'm still a little confused. The rear-end on this engine seems to be more like a Cox 290 prod. engine backplate (in function).. and would use an external tank, wouldn't it? It's just not large enough to hold a significant amount of fuel for any type of model. I would think that the fuel tank for this Testor's "Prod. engine" (as with the later Cox RTR models) would have been a separate one mounted in the model, with fill/vent nipples/holes.. on the top of the fuse's nose.
I would guess that the "square" opening at the back is for air-intake.. however I can't see any sort of a "mesh-screen" to keep debris from fouling the reed.
Here's a few photos I took.. which "might" depict this particular engine being installed in an "inverted-cylinder" orientation in an airplane... with the back-plate turned so that the needle protrudes out the lower outboard side of the fuse, the "fuel-line" (which probably would have been a stiffer clear-vinyl type) "pushed-into" the hole next to the needle.. and the "square" air intake (at the rear...) facing "down".. for less chance of dirt/sand being able to enter. The single "mount-rail" on the case would have been on the "inboard" side of the fuse.. and out of the way of fuel-line maintenance. It's just a theory... but makes sense to me.
Unfortunately.. this engine; unlike the Cox prod. engines, has no crankcase screws securing it's backplate.. making mounting in any other model except the one it was produced for.. virtually impossible.
Roddie, The white "backplate" is actually the gas tank. The square hole in the back is the fill tube. The round hole that sits right by the needle adjustment is a vent hole. On the series 8000 engine, I have primed the engine from that hole, and it has worked perfectly. Much better than the surestart snorkel. I have run a couple of the Series 8000 engine, and they run great. I see them on ebay frequently and you can pick them up Brand New for about $20 + shipping if you are patient. Frankly, they are worth the money. The series 8000 engine is suppose to be very powerful. About like a black widow. I got that information from an engine test article. Check it out here:
http://sceptreflight.net/Model%20Engine%20Tests/Testor%208000%20(2).html
BL: Easy starting and powerful .049 engine. Also, a "revolutionary" piece of 1/2a history. From my perspective, a must have if you collect 1/2a engines. At $20 for a brand new engine - basically a steal. Andy
Thanks Andy, Gee.. that tank couldn't hold much more than 2-3cc's of fuel.. but I guess that's enough for a short blast! Might make for a fun experimental "speed model" engine!
Re: Testors 049
The infamous Pipe Bomb engine with tank. I've got the one that has a larger tank with same bolt pattern as the Cox tank back engines. Don't know the capacity but appears to be at least 7 or 8 cc. It is a sidwinder. If one wants to use for RC, then engine mounts inverted to get the pickup tube at the bottom. Otherwise it is definitely a CL engine. Here I have the Testors Series 8000 .049 installed on a Goldberg Swordsman 18:
GallopingGhostler- Top Poster
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Re: Testors 049
Roddie.
The engine you show is from the "Fly'em" series of RTF planes, so they were only ever designed to mount in the airframe they were sold with. The cylinder sat at about 45° down outboard, the square fill tube sat straight up and the needle was about 45° up inboard. The planes came out with very short dacron lines so a short run was desirable, although my P-40 certainly never broke any speed records. I recall the tank probably giving about 2 minutes flight time.
There were some Testors models which used a similar "pipe bomb" engine but had a front rotary valve. The rear clip-in tank was separated from the crankcase (no reed valve/intake) and there was a fuel metering tube running along the side of the crankcase from the tank to an intake opening forward of the cylinder. (Not a very good explanation). Best to go to the 049 collectors group site and have a look at the photo gallery. These engines were not at all successful due to a very dodgy stepped fuel regulator, as opposed to a true needle valve.
Rod.
The engine you show is from the "Fly'em" series of RTF planes, so they were only ever designed to mount in the airframe they were sold with. The cylinder sat at about 45° down outboard, the square fill tube sat straight up and the needle was about 45° up inboard. The planes came out with very short dacron lines so a short run was desirable, although my P-40 certainly never broke any speed records. I recall the tank probably giving about 2 minutes flight time.
There were some Testors models which used a similar "pipe bomb" engine but had a front rotary valve. The rear clip-in tank was separated from the crankcase (no reed valve/intake) and there was a fuel metering tube running along the side of the crankcase from the tank to an intake opening forward of the cylinder. (Not a very good explanation). Best to go to the 049 collectors group site and have a look at the photo gallery. These engines were not at all successful due to a very dodgy stepped fuel regulator, as opposed to a true needle valve.
Rod.
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Re: Testors 049
Oldenginerod wrote:Roddie.
The engine you show is from the "Fly'em" series of RTF planes, so they were only ever designed to mount in the airframe they were sold with. The cylinder sat at about 45° down outboard, the square fill tube sat straight up and the needle was about 45° up inboard. The planes came out with very short dacron lines so a short run was desirable, although my P-40 certainly never broke any speed records. I recall the tank probably giving about 2 minutes flight time.
There were some Testors models which used a similar "pipe bomb" engine but had a front rotary valve. The rear clip-in tank was separated from the crankcase (no reed valve/intake) and there was a fuel metering tube running along the side of the crankcase from the tank to an intake opening forward of the cylinder. (Not a very good explanation). Best to go to the 049 collectors group site and have a look at the photo gallery. These engines were not at all successful due to a very dodgy stepped fuel regulator, as opposed to a true needle valve.
Rod.
Thanks Rod. This is clearing up a lot of questions that I had on the engine that I have... as well as others that may become available to me. The front rotary-valve version that you mentioned; would seem to have only operated "successfully" on Testors fuel-blend.. not having a needle-valve. Would this be correct?
"Galloping Ghostler".. your CG "Swordsman" looks fabulous! This was my first balsa glow-powered airplane! What particularly caught my eye on yours.. is the color. My dad built mine for me (circa 1969) with a similar "green" on the wings/tail-feathers.. and the fuse was "black".. with a Babe Bee for power. It would be fun to have a CEF "Carl Goldberg" model event of some kind. There were so many decent performing control-line models through the years.. in various sizes/classes.. along with AMA NATS champion endorsements! The fact that Brodak continues to "repro" some of the CG kits, is testament to their popularity.
Re: Testors 049
Apparently the fuel metering valve they used had 5 or 6 steps to adjust the mixture rather than an infinitely variable adjustment like a needle valve. The original test pieces apparently worked very well, but when it came to full scale production, the moulding procedure led to some major inaccuracies in the valve and they were a dismal failure. My example is missing the valve, but you can see in the picture that a tube runs along the side of the crankcase in the "mounting" channel, ending at the intake hole on the right. Probably worked a bit like an emulsion tube in an automotive carb.
...as opposed to the type we've been discussing.
This last one is my favourite.
The rear mount clips in the same way as the tank does on the other models and incorporates a reed valve like the one in the second picture. The mylar reed is retained by a clip-on plastic retainer, not unlike the later Cox design. There is a clip-in venturi (missing in this example) incorporating the spray-bar and needle valve for using a separate fuel tank. I have one with the venturi and one missing. I plan to epoxy in a venturi from an old Cox plastic back plate. The mounting pattern is identical to a Babe Bee and I believe the engine was exclusively used in the Testors Galax IV Hovercraft. It would make for a really simple comparison test, being able to bolt it onto a plane with known capabilities in place of a Cox engine.
Rod.
...as opposed to the type we've been discussing.
This last one is my favourite.
The rear mount clips in the same way as the tank does on the other models and incorporates a reed valve like the one in the second picture. The mylar reed is retained by a clip-on plastic retainer, not unlike the later Cox design. There is a clip-in venturi (missing in this example) incorporating the spray-bar and needle valve for using a separate fuel tank. I have one with the venturi and one missing. I plan to epoxy in a venturi from an old Cox plastic back plate. The mounting pattern is identical to a Babe Bee and I believe the engine was exclusively used in the Testors Galax IV Hovercraft. It would make for a really simple comparison test, being able to bolt it onto a plane with known capabilities in place of a Cox engine.
Rod.
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Re: Testors 049
Oldenginerod wrote:Apparently the fuel metering valve they used had 5 or 6 steps to adjust the mixture rather than an infinitely variable adjustment like a needle valve. The original test pieces apparently worked very well, but when it came to full scale production, the moulding procedure led to some major inaccuracies in the valve and they were a dismal failure. My example is missing the valve, but you can see in the picture that a tube runs along the side of the crankcase in the "mounting" channel, ending at the intake hole on the right. Probably worked a bit like an emulsion tube in an automotive carb.
...as opposed to the type we've been discussing.
This last one is my favourite.
The rear mount clips in the same way as the tank does on the other models and incorporates a reed valve like the one in the second picture. The mylar reed is retained by a clip-on plastic retainer, not unlike the later Cox design. There is a clip-in venturi (missing in this example) incorporating the spray-bar and needle valve for using a separate fuel tank. I have one with the venturi and one missing. I plan to epoxy in a venturi from an old Cox plastic back plate. The mounting pattern is identical to a Babe Bee and I believe the engine was exclusively used in the Testors Galax IV Hovercraft. It would make for a really simple comparison test, being able to bolt it onto a plane with known capabilities in place of a Cox engine.
Rod.
Really neat stuff Rod!! It almost seems like the "Testors/McCoy story" is not unlike the acquisition of Cox by Estes? Glow engines weren't their primary concern.. or their forte'.. but they did try to compete with the "Big-Boy" glow-engine producers of the day.. except they were lacking the engineering/R & D.. to have their products be successful.
Re: Testors 049
Roddie, the color I used is Pactra Stinson Green dope, a really old bottle that is probably over 20 years old. I used the last of it repairing hangar rash. I built it for my son in the 1990's, but he had a problem with asthma and a problem with getting easily dizzy (may be the affect of the asthma medication he was on). So we never did any CL flying, like I had planned.roddie wrote:"Galloping Ghostler".. your CG "Swordsman" looks fabulous! This was my first balsa glow-powered airplane! What particularly caught my eye on yours.. is the color. My dad built mine for me (circa 1969) with a similar "green" on the wings/tail-feathers.. and the fuse was "black".. with a Babe Bee for power. It would be fun to have a CEF "Carl Goldberg" model event of some kind. There were so many decent performing control-line models through the years.. in various sizes/classes.. along with AMA NATS champion endorsements! The fact that Brodak continues to "repro" some of the CG kits, is testament to their popularity.
I still have the plane along with the Goldberg Little Toot biplane.
One of the last Testors .049 front rotary valve McCoy Red Heads.
Only reason I haven't flown them is that Clovis here in eastern New Mexico is mostly open plains. We rarely ever have calm days with less than 5 mph breezes. These reed valve planes just don't do too well in wind as with the larger planes such as the S-1 Ringmaster and S-6 Ring. Junior.
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