Burnt Out Norvel Glow Head

Nothing wrong with either, I just like to tinker around in my spare time. I was at Cox International website yesterday and have one of theirs in my 'cart'. Thank you.

I highly recommend the Galbreath head adapter and Nelson plugs...wink...hint hint

http://kittingittogether.com/index.php?

http://www.the-printer.net/DookCat.html#head

The conversion to a standard plug will lower performance. The medium hot drop-ins are a direct replacement for the Norvel plug.

http://coxengines.ca/insert-for-.049-head-adapter-3-5-fins-medium-hot.html

With a new engine use several head gaskets(shims). I always use at least two after the engine is in service with 35% nitro. I found it much easier to start and break in with a Babe Bee head.

It's probably been said, but break it in opposite of How you'd break in a Cox.
Immediately peak it to get it hot, then richen momentarily once in a while and go back to lean. Its metallurgy needs the heat of peak rpms to find its fit. I couldn't crank mine without a spring, but I wasn't really experienced with Tee Dees or Norvels at the time. I use springs on all of them.
Rusty

Edited for clarity

Great, thank you for the tips on the break-in. I have not ever ran an engine like this, so it is all new to me.

balogh wrote:Rusty you said run it in the opposite direction during beak in? What is this for?

I mean you break in a Cox by running it rich, occasionally peaking it, until it will hold peak without sagging. You break in a Norvel(AAC, ABC, AAN, Revlite) by running it at peak, occasionally Richening it until it holds peak without ever sagging.

Sorry about the unclear description.

You can use a Cox International/EX Engines/MECOA glow plug adapter head, depends on what you're shooting for. I've used one on a Norvel .061 Big Mig. It still provides sparkling performance, hauling a venerable heavy 40" Sureflite Cessna 180 foam ARF and my 36" Airtronics Q-Tee with authority, definitely better than an .049 reedy. Bernie at Cox International has or had a warning on his item descriptions mentioning a couple hundred RPM loss. It's worth a try to get a feel for it. If it doesn't put out the results you want on a model, you can always change it.