Interesting Cox powered Bipe

Nice looking aircraft. I really like the details on the engine.   Waiting for flight video...

Yes, P-17, but I'm sure it's the Guillow's version. I have the kit.



I will know more when it gets here. Mark says it's a big plane. The Guillow's has a 28" wing. This one doesn't have the "N" struts but Mark says that it looks like it's been crashed multiple times and rebuilt.

I'm wondering if the .049 Cox is enough power.

The Sterling was almost if not the same wingspan and was to be powered by a Tee Dee .020. Scale planes don't generally have very good flight characteristics in control line. In addition, it's a stick and tissue model. It's hard to tell, but it appears to have sheeting from the F-1 back, if it doesn't it should be sheeted back to the cockpit. While I have had success flying them, it's a hard road to follow. I found them to be better show pieces vs flyers . They should be flown over asphalt as the gear and other parts generally stay intact. Ken

I was thinking the same thing Ken, Looks like sheeting from the cockpit back where Guillows would have been silk. What makes me think that it's a Guillows kit is the cockpit instrument detail and the plastic formed engine. The builder did a nice job on that, integrating the Cox engine into it.

We will see when my son brings it over.

I'll be curious to know the function of that brass tube sticking up through the cowl.



It looks kinda big to be a fuel tank nipple extension.. but it's the only way I can see to fuel it. It gives me an idea though.. It could serve as a guide for a jeweler's screwdriver to engage a slot cut into the top of the needle valve's knob. Better than using a needle-extension up through the cowl, which usually vibrates when the engine runs. Another trick would be to cut the head off a 4-40 socket-head screw and solder/braze it on top of the needle's knob for turning with a 5/32" ball-end hex key. The head/knob diameters are close.. (the socket head is .015" under) A sleeve of heat-shrink tubing; cut slightly longer.. might hold the two together, as an alternate method of attachment. Both head and knob have a knurled-finish on the sides, which would help with grip. The heat-shrink would need to be long enough to shrink-over the top and bottom edges.. but still be able to insert the wrench on the top side. Tedious tiny work.. but worth the effort for needling a cowled-in Bee.

Thanks roddie, that is strange. I thought it the fuel filler, but where's the needle? Can't have one without the other on a tanked Cox.

My son says - "Don't get your hopes up dad". Seems the pictures make it look better than it actually is.

Where is that kid anyway!!!!!!!!!!

Bob

Mark brought the plane over today and was surprised to see that I had the unbuilt kit.

It is a Guillows. Same details and engine construction. What threw both of us off Ken was the planked wing and fuselage, the builder just sheeted them instead of using silk.



The brass tube is soldered to the needle valve as an extension. The overflow tube is underneath and the filler is the button on the top. Looks like it was meant to be fueled with a syringe needle. I don't think it was ever gassed up and ran. No fuel residue any where.



Good thing, while I was dusting it off while holding by the top wing, it separated about dumping it on the floor. I caught it in time. Actually a great thing had it come off in flight. The struts were not even passed throught the sheeting to bond with solid balsa, they were just glued on top of the sheeting. I will do it right and recreate the "N" style struts.

Nice little airplane Bob! Do you suppose the firewall was fuel-proofed? Might be worth pulling the cowl/engine and applying something to help prevent fuel seepage. That would make a good excuse to go through the engine and give it a check-up.

...it looks about right without the top wing.

You could set up the top wing to rubber band on at the braces. it will save you from cutting the sheeting.

Phil

Thanks guys.  I doubt this thing would ever fly using the Babe Bee, It's way too heavy.

I'm not sure how much space there is inside the cowl.  If I can fit a Black Widow or TD in there I will.  Or maybe one of my Enya .09's, but then balance becomes a problem.  I think the box say .049 to .09 power.  

Good thing I have the plans to build the N struts, probably the materials too.  But I don't want to break-up the kit, so I will probably just reconstruct them from some poplar I have on hand.  

roddie, I like your idea of soldering a cut-off hex head onto the needle for remote access. I will have to file that one away for future use.

Bob