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Post  WingingIt74 Thu Jan 31, 2013 7:34 pm

Other then tinkering with custom reeds, which are better and why?

• Mylar
• Teflon
• Brass
• Stainless
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Post  Cribbs74 Thu Jan 31, 2013 7:53 pm

WingingIt74 wrote:Other then tinkering with custom reeds, which are better and why?

• Mylar
• Teflon
• Brass
• Stainless

In the last year I have logged a ton of flights. I have been using stainless and they have yet to fail me. Seeing as they are made of steel, they would probably last indefinitely.

I also have a couple engines with mylar reeds they too last a long time and have yet to fail in flight. However, they do become discolored so I imagine they eventually do break down.

I really think the type of reed used is just user preference. Performance has been identical with the 2 types I use.
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Post  RknRusty Thu Jan 31, 2013 8:15 pm

The steel and mylar will both eventually become bowed, or domed. I've never had sub standard performance from a mylar reed. That's my main one. I have had to trim off some ridge around one edge that was probably left over from being stamped out. Those would squeak during the blow test. I haven't used enough of the others to form an opinion.

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Post  Cribbs74 Thu Jan 31, 2013 8:36 pm

Rusty,

I agree, they do dome. The stainless after 1 run, yet the performance does not change. The mylar takes more time to dome, but again I haven't seen a change in the way they perform.

That's my experience anyway......
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Post  RknRusty Thu Jan 31, 2013 8:39 pm

If I could only have one kind, my choice would be Mylar with no reservations.

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Post  jsesere Thu Jan 31, 2013 9:32 pm

14 carot gold. A little japaneese man on the Ginza in tokyo makes them for me lol!
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Post  RknRusty Thu Jan 31, 2013 10:10 pm

jsesere wrote:14 carot gold. A little japaneese man on the Ginza in tokyo makes them for me lol!
Yeah, I bet they're great... for one flight, then it's all bent up and you have to toss it in the trash.

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Post  warrenlead Thu Jan 31, 2013 10:36 pm

From memory, Teflon reportedly make the engine easier to start and run faster, due to less weight, but they warp out of shape quickly. Brass eventually develop stress fractures, mylar ones warp too, and stainless steel last forever and therefore give the overall best performance.

There is some discussion about reeds in Paul Gibeaut's Mouse Race Program docs, available here somewhere...

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Post  Mark Boesen Thu Jan 31, 2013 10:52 pm

Here it is:

Paul Gibeaut wrote:High-Power REED VALVES: The original Cox copper/beryllium reeds tend to 'float' at
~17,000 rpm and so they are not optimal for top performance. In a reed valve engine, top
performance is only attainable by using the clear Mylar reed. I find the cross shape better in
tanks that use a 'G-Clip reed retainer wire and the rectangular ones better in the tanks
using the nylon retaining cap. This last production change allows reed engines to be on par
with “Tee Dee’s” in performance! My test bench results indicate that 24,000+ rpm is
achievable for steady-state running with such reeds.
What about 'other ' reed materials and shapes? Cox engine designer Larry Renger prefers
the Cox stainless steel reed over the Mylar reed. My main concern with the steel reed is
that it wears the anodizing right off the mouth of the venturi tube, although the rpm seems
to be the same. I've tried other reeds made of thinner steel, floppy disc material, etc. and so
far haven't found anything better. One Australian made metal reed was indeed 300 rpm
faster, but it broke away after only a few
minutes of running. Teflon reeds may or may
not work as well. I've not found them to be
any faster, and sometimes worse. The final
reed sealing check is done by attaching a
piece of tubing to the tank venturi and
sucking on it. A proper fitting reed will hold
the pressure and not leak.
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