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Post  dankar04 Thu Oct 27, 2011 1:03 pm

Hoppe's#9 is divine! Works well and made to remove grime. Use out doors as stuff is potent. I have a very old bottle and one of chemicals it has in it is nitro benzene. Kind of temped to put some in pint of 1/2A fuel and see how it goes. Can't be any worse than nitro methane. Maybe try a junk Wen-Mac or OK Cub. Some of old fuel used this in racing fuel. lol!
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Post  nitroairplane Thu Oct 27, 2011 2:34 pm

dankar04 wrote:Hoppe's#9 is divine! Works well and made to remove grime. Use out doors as stuff is potent. I have a very old bottle and one of chemicals it has in it is nitro benzene. Kind of temped to put some in pint of 1/2A fuel and see how it goes. Can't be any worse than nitro methane. Maybe try a junk Wen-Mac or OK Cub. Some of old fuel used this in racing fuel. lol!

It can be worse.....
Nitrobenzene was used in glow engines before nitromethane .it has a slightly sweet smell but they stopped using it after they found it was Carsinogenic as well as highly toxic
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Post  Cox International Thu Oct 27, 2011 5:35 pm

Perhaps this guide will help?

http://coxengines.ca/CMG.pdf

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Post  nitroairplane Thu Oct 27, 2011 6:00 pm

Great guide Bernie,
Thank you. Beer Cheers
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Post  jetpack Thu Oct 27, 2011 6:19 pm

Soaking in fuel is a good way to go. It is nice to see a manual for freeing up older Cox engines. Adds nicely to the establishment sunny

Nitromethane usually takes out most everything it touches and it only makes sense to use it. It has all the same components that it's stuck with.
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Post  nitroairplane Thu Oct 27, 2011 6:46 pm

Hi I use a different fuel to clean from what I run in them.
I use 30% heli fuel that only has 8% oil it has. Deeper cleaning action.
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Post  GermanBeez Fri Oct 28, 2011 1:41 pm

nitroairplane wrote:
dankar04 wrote:Hoppe's#9 is divine! Works well and made to remove grime. Use out doors as stuff is potent. I have a very old bottle and one of chemicals it has in it is nitro benzene. Kind of temped to put some in pint of 1/2A fuel and see how it goes. Can't be any worse than nitro methane. Maybe try a junk Wen-Mac or OK Cub. Some of old fuel used this in racing fuel. lol!

It can be worse.....
Nitrobenzene was used in glow engines before nitromethane .it has a slightly sweet smell but they stopped using it after they found it was Carsinogenic as well as highly toxic
duy, nitrometh is JUST AS TOXIC. Very Happy
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Post  PV Pilot Fri Oct 28, 2011 2:07 pm

remove tarnish and other real baked on dirt - Page 2 McCoy19RC
A couple of McCoy 19 rc blue heads that I just broke free. 3 day soak and vibrate in my redneck sonic cleaner using 30%. A liberal dousing of after run oil down the carb throat, glow plug hole, and exhaust port. Heated them up to untouchable with the heat gun and they rocked free after a few tries (very carefully). The were seized up estate sale motors that were in very bad shape. Carb bores were left open to the elements and no glow plugs installed. hopefully when I get inside I will still have something to work with. alot of work yet to go.

You can see that I double nutted the crank to be able to rock them gently back and fourth.
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Post  nitroairplane Fri Oct 28, 2011 2:37 pm

GermanBeez wrote:
nitroairplane wrote:
dankar04 wrote:Hoppe's#9 is divine! Works well and made to remove grime. Use out doors as stuff is potent. I have a very old bottle and one of chemicals it has in it is nitro benzene. Kind of temped to put some in pint of 1/2A fuel and see how it goes. Can't be any worse than nitro methane. Maybe try a junk Wen-Mac or OK Cub. Some of old fuel used this in racing fuel. lol!

It can be worse.....
Nitrobenzene was used in glow engines before nitromethane .it has a slightly sweet smell but they stopped using it after they found it was Carsinogenic as well as highly toxic
duy, nitrometh is JUST AS TOXIC. Very Happy

i dont think so.
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Post  microflitedude Fri Oct 28, 2011 6:03 pm

nitroairplane wrote:
GermanBeez wrote:
nitroairplane wrote:
dankar04 wrote:Hoppe's#9 is divine! Works well and made to remove grime. Use out doors as stuff is potent. I have a very old bottle and one of chemicals it has in it is nitro benzene. Kind of temped to put some in pint of 1/2A fuel and see how it goes. Can't be any worse than nitro methane. Maybe try a junk Wen-Mac or OK Cub. Some of old fuel used this in racing fuel. lol!

It can be worse.....
Nitrobenzene was used in glow engines before nitromethane .it has a slightly sweet smell but they stopped using it after they found it was Carsinogenic as well as highly toxic
duy, nitrometh is JUST AS TOXIC. Very Happy

i dont think so.

Definitely not. Very Happy
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Post  nitroairplane Fri Oct 28, 2011 6:29 pm

microflitedude wrote:
nitroairplane wrote:
GermanBeez wrote:
nitroairplane wrote:
dankar04 wrote:Hoppe's#9 is divine! Works well and made to remove grime. Use out doors as stuff is potent. I have a very old bottle and one of chemicals it has in it is nitro benzene. Kind of temped to put some in pint of 1/2A fuel and see how it goes. Can't be any worse than nitro methane. Maybe try a junk Wen-Mac or OK Cub. Some of old fuel used this in racing fuel. lol!

It can be worse.....
Nitrobenzene was used in glow engines before nitromethane .it has a slightly sweet smell but they stopped using it after they found it was Carsinogenic as well as highly toxic
duy, nitrometh is JUST AS TOXIC. Very Happy

i dont think so.

Definitely not. Very Happy

I'd rather have nitro poison than cancer...
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Post  Carl Sat Oct 29, 2011 11:29 pm

alright so i took apart my babe bee and and soaked all the parts in antifreeze in my little crockpot from the thrift shop. i left them in there overnight and on the lowest heating setting. i pulled them out to dry them off and noticed they turned a real dark color. i only did this to one engine so i didn't ruin all of my engines. is there something i did wrong and is there a way to remove that dark color? also, does it affect anodizing?
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Post  nitroairplane Sun Oct 30, 2011 5:17 am

jetpack wrote:I've crock pot a lot of motors. Use a kitchen strainer as a basket, and submerge your parts on its lowest setting, cover it and keep it outside by all means. Do not breath vapors at all when you uncover it.

Cast engine cases will turn dark if left in too long. High heat will turn everything dark. You cannot re-use your crock pot for food and if thrown out, you break the ceramic pot so nobody picks it out of the garbage to use for cooking again.

Paint stripper also works well.

One full day on low should take care of most of it, stopping half way to remove the parts to check the progress and scrub the heavy deposits. A brass brush is safe.

I have noticed the potency has dropped I think. It has cleaned about 15 regular motors and the last couple it just didnt seem to work very well. Not like I had remembered when I first started using it.

Maybe it was a little high?
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Post  jetpack Sun Oct 30, 2011 5:38 am

It would have either been too high of heat or too long of time. Regular unheated antifreeze does no harm so it would have to been either two. The dark should come right off with some scrubbing with the copper cleaner.
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Post  microflitedude Sun Oct 30, 2011 9:01 am

jetpack wrote:It would have either been too high of heat or too long of time. Regular unheated antifreeze does no harm so it would have to been either two. The dark should come right off with some scrubbing with the copper cleaner.

Hmm. Mine is only one setting, so I'll cook a bad glowhead overnight and see what it does.
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Post  Cribbs74 Tue Nov 01, 2011 10:57 pm

Regular aluminum Polish works really well for the external crankcase and tank. For the head just use jewelers rouge and a buffing wheel. I use nitro fuel to clean the internals. IMHO
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Post  PV Pilot Wed Nov 02, 2011 10:43 am

Another good one to add to the list is Gumout carb cleaner, for the internals. Very old caked on castor oil resembled petrified tree sap (amber) and it's very hard to get it to break down. The Gumout I found out this past weekend pretty much liquifies it on contact. Have to be carefull with the Gumout because it can melt some soft rubbers.

I tried some of the Dawn Power Scrubber also that comes in the small blue squirt bottle. It works best if allowed to set on the parts for say 30 min, then some toothbrush work, followed by a hot rinse.
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Post  nitroairplane Wed Nov 02, 2011 2:28 pm

PV Pilot wrote:Another good one to add to the list is Gumout carb cleaner, for the internals. Very old caked on castor oil resembled petrified tree sap (amber) and it's very hard to get it to break down. The Gumout I found out this past weekend pretty much liquifies it on contact. Have to be carefull with the Gumout because it can melt some soft rubbers.

I tried some of the Dawn Power Scrubber also that comes in the small blue squirt bottle. It works best if allowed to set on the parts for say 30 min, then some toothbrush work, followed by a hot rinse.

That cool.
Maybe Bernie or Matt could make a special cox engine cleaner like Xenalube but maybe Xenaclener Smile Laughing
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Post  microflitedude Wed Nov 02, 2011 3:57 pm

PV Pilot wrote:Another good one to add to the list is Gumout carb cleaner, for the internals. Very old caked on castor oil resembled petrified tree sap (amber) and it's very hard to get it to break down. The Gumout I found out this past weekend pretty much liquifies it on contact. Have to be carefull with the Gumout because it can melt some soft rubbers.

I tried some of the Dawn Power Scrubber also that comes in the small blue squirt bottle. It works best if allowed to set on the parts for say 30 min, then some toothbrush work, followed by a hot rinse.

+1.

Brake cleaner is better because it's higher pressure and non-chlorinated, so it doesn't mess up plastic.
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Post  Mark Boesen Wed Nov 02, 2011 10:34 pm

Hello,
I've enclosed a photo of a mint, pristine Babe Bee I removed from a busted up Cox Super Cub 105, that was probably started Christmas day '57, wrecked and then shoved in the attack for the next 54 years.

Please notice the tank, this how they looked, not polished up like chrome. The second photo is from a Babe Bee salvaged from a 1960-62 1911 Cutis Pusher, I posted it to show how a engine can look nice, but if you look close, its pretty beat up.

If you've used a polish or its badly scratched up or oxidized, you might want to think about sticking the tank in a drill and hit it with some fine sandpaper and WD-40.
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Post  jetpack Thu Nov 03, 2011 7:10 am

I just finished trying to clean up an old motor in a 50/50 mix of glycol in the crock pot. Hardly touched the baked on stuff and none of the carbon in the exhaust port. It softened it all up however, so Im just going to finish cleaning it by hand.

Everyone tries antifreeze in the crock pot but I'm wondering how brake fluid or ATF would work instead using the crockpot.
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Post  andrew Thu Nov 03, 2011 7:33 am

jetpack wrote:I just finished trying to clean up an old motor in a 50/50 mix of glycol in the crock pot. Hardly touched the baked on stuff and none of the carbon in the exhaust port. It softened it all up however, so Im just going to finish cleaning it by hand.

jetpack --

Your antifreeze needs to be a non-diluted solution. Don't use any of the pre-mixes and use only the original glycol mix; the tree-hugger (environmentally safe) variety won't work. Twenty-four hours on warm, not hot, is usually enough to remove or fully soften any deposits. A little elbow grease with a stiff bristle toothbrush will finish off the job.

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Post  gcb Thu Nov 03, 2011 9:38 am

One thing I did not see mentioned is that once you put antifreeze in the crock pot, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER use it for food again. The antifteeze becomes embedded in the pot and CAN NOT be removed...and that ain't no crock! Very Happy

George
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Post  PV Pilot Thu Nov 03, 2011 11:00 am

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A pic of my homebuilt sonic washer. The chrome knob on the swedish hand massage adjust the intensity of the vibrations. The bolt thru the top gets clamped into a bench vise to hold the canister upright. High temp/high solvent oil proof pushrod tube seals keeps the nitro from leaking out. This took me all of about 20 minutes to make, the hardest part was finding a bolt in my stash long enough to span the width of the coffee canister. works quite well for a quick build.
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Post  microflitedude Thu Nov 03, 2011 11:12 am

gcb wrote:One thing I did not see mentioned is that once you put antifreeze in the crock pot, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER use it for food again. The antifteeze becomes embedded in the pot and CAN NOT be removed...and that ain't no crock! Very Happy

George

If you ever get rid of it, smash the insert so nobody gets it off your trash.
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