remove tarnish and other real baked on dirt

microflitedude wrote:

PV Pilot wrote:

nitroairplane wrote:Or you could have just bolted a diesel to it

Hmmm,,,

Know that old motor in your drawer with a bent shaft?

It now has a new use.

lol or that unbalanced crank one
And AE 1.5cc

nitroairplane wrote:

microflitedude wrote:

PV Pilot wrote:

nitroairplane wrote:Or you could have just bolted a diesel to it

Hmmm,,,

Know that old motor in your drawer with a bent shaft?

It now has a new use.

lol or that unbalanced crank one
And AE 1.5cc

Just horseclipper off one prop blade and let it eat at full sing.

PV Pilot wrote:

nitroairplane wrote:

microflitedude wrote:

PV Pilot wrote:

nitroairplane wrote:Or you could have just bolted a diesel to it

Hmmm,,,

Know that old motor in your drawer with a bent shaft?

It now has a new use.

lol or that unbalanced crank one
And AE 1.5cc

Just horseclipper off one prop blade and let it eat at full sing.

lol or put a small bolt through one prop blade.

or use it as an oversized pager motor taped to your cell phone

GermanBeez wrote:or use it as an oversized pager motor taped to your cell phone

Or an iphone with the Ibrat emassage app.

Im back now! i just got back from the local gun shop, I went to pick up some of that Hoppe's No.9. when he was ringing me up, he asked what kind of gun i have, i then told him I was using it to clean some old cox engines. the shopkeep then said "i remember those! arn't they made from aluminum though?" I told him the case and the tank is aluminum. He then told me that I don't want to use this stuff on aluminum since it contains ammonia and ammonia would eat the aluminum. I bought the stuff anyway since all of you say it is ok but i just cant get over what he said. How do you guys use it? does it even affect the aluminum?

regards, Carl

Your safe, no worries. A weeks long soak in the stuff might put a etch line on the alum, but its not going to melt your parts. I have used Barnes gunpowder residue solvent on these parts and no harm was done. That stuff has a huge concentration of ammonia in it. Barnes might do harm if items were allowed to soak. Hoppes just has a small percentage and it works fast so no need to soak.

Carl:

Such has NOT been my experience with Hoppe's #9 on aluminum. Use it on aluminum with confidence as I have many times.

ok so i have just took a paper towel soaked in it and wiped in on some of the parts, it really didn't do anything. the aluminum is still quite dark apposed to what a new one is like. I'm looking for that like new finish. i called up my buddy who has pristine engines in his hanging planes to ask him exactly how he did it and he said he polished the crankcase with a jewelry polisher and aluminum cleaning compound and put the tank in his mini lathe and used very fine steel wool to remove the oxidation. my buddy also said he used gun blue to touch up the cylinder. He always took very good care of his engines so they are in no way trashed. mine are ok but have little scratches and nicks in them. i know there is not much I can do about thet but i just want to natural fresh aluminum look. The antifreeze in the crockpot only made the parts darker, and i know i did use undiluted reguler antifreeze, no special junk.

The Hoppes works for removing old castor and crud. For shine and gleam i use eagle 1 etching formula mag wheel cleaner to strip the alum back to a satin finish, then polish back with Heavy metal polish in coarse, then medium coarse. The nicks and scratches will need a bunch of sanding with 1000 grit paper to get below the nick and scratch depth,, then finish polish. Sometimes if it is a really cruddy piece, i will skip the hoppes and go right to the Eagle 1 etch and use a old toothbrush.